What temperature should be on a VAZ 2110 8 valves

Engine operating temperature on the VAZ-2110 - is there a difference?

Despite the fact that 8 and 16-valve VAZ engines have a slight difference in the design of the cooling system, the operating temperature for both engines is the same.

Engine operating temperature on the instrument panel.

The factory provides normal engine operating temperatures ranging from 87 to 103 degrees. Maintaining the temperature within these limits can be greatly influenced by certain issues related to the performance and quality of the cooling system elements. Let's look at each of them briefly.

Thermostat

Most of the complaints are made specifically to the thermostat, the bypass valve, which directs the coolant in a full or small circle, depending on the degree of heating.

The engine may not warm up to the legal 87–90 degrees due to a stuck valve. But most often, thermostat malfunctions occur due to the quality of the thermoelement. Despite the fact that each thermostat is marked on the body, which indicates the valve response temperature, the indicated temperature does not always correspond to reality.

So, at the specified operating temperature of 85 degrees, the thermostat can pass liquid in a large circle already when warming up to 75–80 degrees. As a result, the temperature will not correspond to the norm, the engine will not be able to warm up to the optimal value. The only solution is to test the thermostat before installation. To do this, the thermostat body is placed in a vessel with water and heated to the specified temperature, periodically checking the condition of the valve. A discrepancy between the thermostat response temperature, even by 3–5 degrees, will not allow you to obtain the optimal operating temperature while driving.

Operating temperature of VAZ 2110: diagnostics and replacement of the coolant temperature sensor

Drivers who regularly drive on country roads often see the following picture: a car is standing on the side of the road with the hood raised, and steam is coming from the engine compartment. The cause of this situation is most often the temperature sensor. In one case, the motorist himself is to blame for the breakdown; he did not notice the temperature increase, and in the other, the electronic element was worn out. The coolant sensor (DTS) rarely breaks, but if this happens, then urgent replacement is required. After studying this material, the reader will learn what the operating temperature of the engine is, why the VAZ 2110 engine gets hot, how to check the DTOZH and how to replace/install a new element in a car where the injector is located.

This happens if you do not notice a malfunction of the engine temperature sensor in time.

Cooling radiator

Cooling radiator pulled from the engine

As practice shows, this part lasts quite a long time. The main cause of failure is clogged internal channels. So, if the blockage is sufficiently dense, the engine begins to heat up, the high pressure created by the pump can lead to a rupture of the tube and the radiator will leak.

Some car enthusiasts have it soldered and cleaned, but as practice shows, after a short period of time, a leak forms again. Therefore, if this part fails, it must be replaced with a new one.

What should the engine operating temperature be?

Engine operating temperature shown on the instrument panel

If we take the information from the international convention of automobile manufacturers dated December 1, 1992, then the uniform standard for engine operating temperature is considered to be 90 degrees Celsius. With such indicators, the engine operates as efficiently as possible and does not create residual negative effects.

When switching to more advanced engine manufacturing technologies in 2004, it was accepted that a specific indicator of this indicator cannot be held in one position, and therefore they made a gradation of acceptable standards, which amounted to 85-105 degrees Celsius.

Engine overheating shown on the instrument panel

At this temperature, all systems function normally, and the motor is not subject to negative factors and consequences.

The engine cooling system has many components that are interconnected, and if one fails, the entire system will not be able to function. So, let's look at the location diagram and decoding of the indicators for the cooling system of a 16-valve engine.

Diagram of the cooling system operation

1 – heater radiator; 2 – steam removal hose of the heater radiator; 3 – outlet hose; 4 – supply hose; 5 – coolant temperature sensor (in the block head); 6 – pump supply pipe hose; 7 – thermostat; 8 – filling hose; 9 – expansion tank plug; 10 – coolant level indicator sensor;

11 – expansion tank; 12 – exhaust pipe; 13 – liquid chamber of the carburetor starting device; 14 – radiator outlet hose; 15 – radiator supply hose; 16 – radiator steam outlet hose; 17 – left radiator tank; 18 – sensor for turning on the electric fan; 19 – fan electric motor;

20 – electric fan impeller; 21 – right radiator tank; 22 – drain plug; 23 – electric fan casing; 24 – timing belt; 25 – coolant pump impeller; 26 – supply pipe of the coolant pump; 27 – coolant supply hose to the throttle pipe;

In fact, there are quite a lot of components in the cooling system that are susceptible to failure. This depends not only on the service life, but also on maintenance, as well as the quality of the parts. So, let's look at the main components, faults and methods for solving them.

Cooling system sensor

Cooling sensor location

Part of the engine management system that sends a pulse to the ECU to turn the cooling fan on or off and also reports the status and changes in engine operating temperature. If it fails, the part must be replaced to eliminate the malfunction.

Airlock

In addition, an air lock in the cooling system can greatly interfere with the circulation of coolant.

A plug may occur after the liquid boils, as well as due to improper replacement of antifreeze or depressurization of the system. As a rule, air is removed from the cooling system through the throttle body pipe, as the highest point of the closed cooling system. After removing the plug, the engine will warm up to rated temperature and will not overheat.

Air is removed through the throttle body pipe after the engine has warmed up to operating temperature.

Radiator cooling fan

Electric fan with casing removed

This part provides cooling of the liquid, but if there is insufficient oncoming wind flow, it is this part that additionally creates an air flow. The cooling fan prevents the temperature from rising to a critical level.

It turns on at 100 degrees Celsius, and turns off at 94.

kokika 26.11.2009 – 10:49

Auto VAZ 2110

The fan turns on constantly.

The needle goes into the red zone, there is a squeak (the onboard beeps or something), the fan kicks in, cools down to about 100 and then goes back to heating. Moreover, the car manages to heat up within 1.5 km, well, with a warm engine.

I bought the car used. 2007, a student myself, traveling around the city. I think it depends on my driving style.

Driving style, sometimes I drive sections of 35 km/h in 2nd gear, but mostly I drive in 3rd gear for 50 km/h. How many revolutions should you keep? Well, I always show 15 at 50 mph and 3rd gear (sort of).

Maybe it’s all normal, it’s just this squeak every time you turn on the fan (it’s like it’s not right).

I’m wondering if it’s zero degrees outside now, what will it be like in the heat.

I checked the antifreeze and showed it to the guys; 4 people said it was ok. Well, just in case, I’m posting (photos), I didn’t find any risks there.

What is your operating temperature?

So I always have 105 somewhere and every kilometer goes into the red, it cools down (by the fan) and again, is this how it should be?

PS: I defined the border of the red zone as 110 on the scale

Attached images

Post edited by kokika: 11/26/2009 – 10:53

QUOTE (kokika @ November 26, 2009, 10:49 am)

Auto VAZ 2110

The fan turns on constantly.

I bought the car used. 2007, a student myself, traveling around the city. I think it depends on my driving style.

Maybe it’s all normal, it’s just this squeak every time you turn on the fan (it’s like it’s not right).

I’m wondering if it’s zero degrees outside now, what will it be like in the heat.

I checked the antifreeze and showed it to the guys; 4 people said it was ok. Well, just in case, I’m posting (photos), I didn’t find any risks there.

What is your operating temperature?

So I always have 105 somewhere and every kilometer goes into the red, it cools down (by the fan) and again, is this how it should be?

PS: I defined the border of the red zone as 110 on the scale

Try to go out of town on a straight section and drive without traffic jams and observe. You can drive the same 50 km/h (of course they will swear, you are studying, it is advisable to choose a section that is not very busy), for example, on a weekend from Krasavinsky Bridge to Mulov (or vice versa), you can go further. You can go 50 km/h in fourth, even better. In winter (not in severe frosts), the stove saves you from overheating when the temperature is close to the red zone. a more powerful stove fan mode if it’s hot to open the window, and in severe frosts the stove already operates at higher speeds, and it’s not so easy to boil.

Post edited by expertaleks: 11/26/2009 – 11:53

Procedure. Step-by-step instruction

If after completing the next step the problem goes away, further checks are stopped.

Open the hood.
Wait for the engine to cool down.
Perform an initial visual inspection: integrity of the hoses, reliability of the clamps, absence of leaks or cracks.
Make sure that the expander cover elements are in good condition. Remove scale, rust, clear holes, wipe, assemble. The absence of noticeable damage to parts gives hope that the product will work.

The valve design is elementary. The cover contains a spring. Functionally, it is designed to regulate the pressure in the cooling circuit. A hot engine increases it, a cold engine decreases it.

Compressing at a value of 1.1 atmospheres, the spring relieves excess pressure and prevents the destruction of hoses and the tank. As the motor cools, it creates a vacuum effect. The tank will begin to flatten. The valve equalizes the pressure.

The lid screws tightly on the thread, eliminating distortions. There should be a gap between it and the body. An overtightened valve will not work. It is difficult to test the device's operation in road conditions. You can check by replacing it with a known good one.

Inspect the electrical wiring elements to ensure a reliable connection

Possible factors for damage to electrical circuits:

vibration;
oxidation;
burning;
breakage, fraying of electrical wires;
insulation aging, short circuit.

Switch the tester to resistance measurement mode. Remove it with special tweezers and ring the fuse link F7 located in the mounting block.

Fuse box diagram

Replace the burnt-out element with a serviceable one with a rating of 20A. Inspect and clean the nest. Insert fuse.

It was not possible to find out the reason, the protection triggered again - look for a short circuit.

Disconnect the fan plug. Use a tester to measure the circuit of the electric motor windings. Zero resistance or a break indicate the need to replace the radiator blower electric drive.

Interturn short circuits that cause multiple replacements of fuse links cannot be measured with the device.

Sensor check

Start the car. Pull out the coolant temperature sensor connector. The fan starts working - the sensor needs to be replaced. Secure the disconnected wire. Drive to a nearby service station.

Relay test

There is a hatch on the floor at the front passenger's feet.

Below it is a built-in panel with three relays of the same type:

fan installation;
fuel pump;
ignition (main thing).

By replacing each other, try to start the airflow. The VAZ 2110 fan does not work - go to the next step.

Check the electric motor

Winding measurements did not reveal a malfunction. Apply voltage briefly from the battery using additional insulated conductors. The operation of the fan indicates a malfunction of the controller, which does not output a signal to the relay.

The only correct solution is to turn on the airflow directly and urgently visit a service station.
Prevention of breakdowns of the cooling system of the VAZ 2110 injector 16 valves.
Periodically inspect the components of the cooling system.
Monitor the cooling temperature on the device, listen to the operation of the fan.
Maintain coolant level. Replace after 2 years or 30,000 km.
Use the solution to remove rust and scale.
Signs of a change in the properties of the coolant are a change in color, an increase in fluidity.
Check the density with a hydrometer.
Do not mix coolants.
Every twelve months, rinse the expansion tank cap with water and check it on a stand with a pressure gauge.
Avoid contact of aggressive liquids with electrical wiring and electric motor windings.

Cat 302 11/26/2009 – 11:55

If you have an on-board vehicle, look at the temperature on it and everything will become clear!!!!

No one named what kind of work they should be?

And how much does diagnostics cost?

thank you in advance

And why is it dangerous to drive a little at a temperature of 110?

The car has two temperature sensors: 1 on the injector, the second on the dashboard

The readings from these sensors may vary.

The thermostat opens at 90-95 degrees.

After the engine warms up, the temperature is maintained within 96-103 degrees.

In your case, the thermostat may be faulty, this could be checked if you had an on-board computer by looking at the exact temperature readings when the thermostat was opened.

It’s better to go for diagnostics, besides this problem you can find out a lot of interesting things about your car.

conclusions

The operating temperature of the 16-valve VAZ-2112 engine is 87-103 degrees Celsius.

If this indicator increases, the engine may boil, which in turn can lead to serious negative consequences, such as bending of the cylinder head or major engine overhaul. It is worth carefully monitoring the condition of the components and parts of the cooling system, because they ensure normal cooling and operation of the power unit.

Didn't find the information you are looking for? on our forum.

Engine temperature drops while driving

Experts strongly recommend that you inspect the vehicle before driving. Such visual diagnostics help to identify various deviations in its operation, allowing them to be quickly eliminated.

Particular attention must be paid to the indicators of the main systems, one of which is the operating temperature of the machine’s engine. It is displayed on the dashboard in the form of a small arrow display. Basically, motorists are faced with overheating of the power unit. Reverse deviations often occur when the driver notices that the engine temperature drops while driving.

Diagnostics using ODB-2 scanner

The general technical condition of the car can always be checked using a personal diagnostic car scanner. Among the options available on the market, we recommend paying attention to the Korean-made Scan Tool Pro Black Edition scanner. This model is perfectly compatible with most domestic and foreign cars.

A special feature of the device is full automatic diagnostics. Unlike analogues, this auto scanner is capable of diagnosing not only the engine, but also ABS, gearbox, transmission, airbag, air conditioning system, etc. All gauges, oil pressure, temperature and much more are available.

Extraneous noise

When extraneous sounds appear in engine operation, the first thing you need to do is look at the condition of the hydraulic compensators, since they are the most common cause of failure. The solution to the problem of knocking hydraulic valves is replacement. But if they have nothing to do with it, then it’s worth checking the oil pressure in the system. In addition, sounds may come from the pistons, their pins, main bearings or valves. If the problem is with them, then you should contact the nearest service center.

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Domestic 16-valve engines

A little preface. When faced with 16-valve VAZs at the household level, remember that such cars are always equipped with 14-inch wheels, since there are enlarged ventilated brake discs at the front.

So, the “gear” came from an 8-valve engine. In the articles you can find mentions that VAZ wanted to create a powerful and economical engine, and so, the “gear” will never be more economical than an eight-valve engine. Consumption 16 cl. engine 7.5 - 10 liters, depending on the dynamics.

The first engine from the line was 21120 (hereinafter referred to as the 120th

). The volume is one and a half liters, equipped with an ignition module, the valves bend. Visually different is the cast intake manifold. It was developed for cars 2110-2112, installed in various modifications such as “Premier” and 2112 in a two-door hatchback body. It went into production in 1996 and was installed on cars until 2004. If today you buy a car with such an engine, then most likely it has already undergone repairs and a “plug-in” piston is installed on it.

120th: valve bend, cast intake manifold, ignition module, 1.5 liters.

In 2004, the 120th engine was replaced by a new one with the index 21124 (hereinafter referred to as the 124th

). In addition to cars of the tenth family, it was installed on the VAZ 2113 and VAZ 2114.

This engine does not bend the valves, thanks to grooves on the pistons, this is its main difference from its predecessor. It is easy to distinguish by its plastic intake manifold. In addition, the ignition module has been replaced with individual coils for each cylinder. Engine capacity increased to 1.6 liters.

Many people call this engine the most balanced in the VAZ line, and I think this is true. Its service life is at least 200 thousand, if you drive “without fanaticism”.

124th: no valve bending, plastic intake, ignition coils, volume 1.6 liters.

In 2007, the tenth family left the assembly line (the vehicle kits were sent to Ukrainian as punishment) and the Priora was released. This “breakthrough” in mechanical engineering was equipped with the 21126 engine ( 126th

). It was equipped with lightweight connecting rods, pistons, liners, and other parts, which made its service life less than that of a 124 engine. In order to increase power, the grooves on the pistons have been removed and the valves on this engine are bent.

126th or “prioromotor”; oppression, lightweight, volume 1.6.

21128 or 128th

the motor was created and installed on Priora and 2110-2112, which were produced by this company. This is the heir to the 124th engine, the engine capacity has been increased to 1.8 liters, which has a negative impact on the service life. In practice, I saw one such car, which, with a mileage of 90 thousand kilometers, suffered from severe oil consumption. This engine received a lot of negative reviews.

Presentation of the 128th, source https://24techno-guide.ru/images/img575.j

In 2013, 21127 appeared or 127

-th engine, its power was increased to 106 horsepower, an adjustable air intake through the receiver was installed, the mass air flow sensor was abandoned in favor of the DBP (absolute pressure sensor) and the DTV (air temperature sensor). The valves in this engine are bent.

And the last creation we will look at is this 11194

engine. It has a volume of 1.4 liters, installed on Kalina. At one time I drove such a Kalina, and the meaning of such an engine is not clear to me; it drives exactly the same as an 8-valve one. The reviews leave much to be desired, and for its unjustified oil consumption, the engine was nicknamed the “legendary Kalinomotor”, of course, not without sarcasm.

We briefly looked at the "six" from VAZ. In this article I will not touch on modern Vest engines and other creations of AVTOVAZ; to be honest, I’m losing interest in studying the crafts of the alliance of the French and Japanese.

Sources

zen.yandex.ru/media/tec/otechestvennye-16klapannye-motory-5da93b67028d6800ac761e55
dvigatels.ru/russia/dvigatel-vaz-2112.html
carprofy.ru/dvigatel/vaz-2112/
drom.ru/catalog/lada/2112/specs/engine_capacity/
drive2.ru/b/1827090/