Operating principle
In addition to the fact that the electronic control unit (ECU) receives signals about the current temperature of the coolant and oil in the engine, it determines the correct air-to-fuel ratio for starting.
Before driving a car in the winter, you need to slightly warm up the engine to minimum operating temperature. This manipulation reduces the likelihood of damage to system parts and makes the engine start and operation more stable when turned on. The regulator channel opens before starting to mix fuel with air. When the car starts, the operating algorithm is as follows:
- The driver turns the ignition key.
- The rod straightens to its maximum, and the needle closes the bypass channel.
- When the rod rests against the hole for calibrating the BC, the backward countdown of steps starts.
- Current is supplied to both windings of the XX sensor, thereby moving the valve to the open state.
Due to its complex structure, this element often fails. If the sensor is faulty it must be replaced. Otherwise, the car will not work as it should: it will start poorly and stall.
Brake booster malfunction
The vacuum brake booster can only operate when the engine is running. The vacuum chamber of the brake booster communicates with the intake manifold, where a vacuum is created, through a check valve and a connecting hose or tube. When the engine stops, the check valve closes, disconnecting the vacuum chamber of the amplifier and the intake manifold.
When the engine is off, the brakes operate only from mechanical force directly on the pedal. The amount of vacuum remaining in the chamber may only be enough for two or three brake presses without applying excessive force to stop the car.
A malfunction of the check valve or the vacuum seal itself also leads to air entering the system during braking. As a result, the mixture becomes leaner and the car stalls. The malfunction can occur both on cars where the carburetor is responsible for supplying fuel, and on the injector.
It is easy to check the performance of the vacuum booster. Just hold down the brake pedal and start the engine. A working vacuum booster will make the pedal softer and when you start the engine it will feel like it will fall. Otherwise, replace the check valve or amplifier.
Malfunctions and solutions
Fuel system
Signs of a fuel system malfunction:
- The engine will not start;
- prolonged engine start;
- the engine starts and stalls;
- lack of traction and dynamic characteristics;
- increased fuel consumption;
- frequent popping noises caused by a lean mixture;
- failures during acceleration.
One of the most common fuel system malfunctions is the ineffective operation of the fuel pump or its complete failure. It is possible to evaluate the operation of the fuel pump by connecting a pressure gauge to the injector rail. When the fuel pump is turned on, the pressure gauge needle should quickly, within 1.0 - 1.5 seconds, settle to the position of 3.8 atm, and when turned off, the pressure is allowed to drop to 3.0 atm.
If the pressure from the zero position increases slowly to 3.8 atm, this indicates that the filters installed in the tank on the fuel pump module and on the car frame are dirty.
A rapid drop in pressure to zero after turning off the fuel pump can be caused by a number of reasons:
- malfunction of the fuel pressure regulator installed under the fuel pump module cover%
- malfunction of the check valve on the fuel pump motor;
- the appearance of a crack in the corrugated fuel supply pipe to the main line or its leaky fit into the engine inlet fitting.
Fuel pump module
Failure of the fuel pump often occurs due to a lack of supply voltage, which is supplied from the turn-on relay. The relay is located in the engine compartment, on the rear wall of the engine compartment (literally under the windshield). Since the fuel pump relay is installed in the same block with two other relays for turning on the cooling fan and the main one, the car owner often has a question about their exact identification.
This can be done in different ways:
Method-1. Performed with an assistant without a warning lamp. The method works by sensing the activation of the relay electromagnet. The tester places his fingertips on all three relays, and the assistant turns on the ignition. At this time, two relays will operate simultaneously - the main one and the fuel pump, and the inspector will feel the click of the operation of the electromagnets. After 5-8 seconds, the fuel pump relay will turn off with a click of the relay, which will also be reflected on the inspector’s finger.
Method -2. Performed with an assistant and using a test lamp. Having hooked one of the test lamp probes to ground, the other is connected from the reverse side of the block to terminal “87” of the supply voltage. The assistant turns on the ignition and the inspector determines by the indicator lamp that one of the three relays is turned on. After 5-8 seconds have passed, at the relay where the control lamp turns off, this is the fuel pump relay. On the main relay, the control lamp will remain on continuously until the ignition is turned off, and on the fan relay, the lamp will not turn on.
The method is convenient in that the fuel pump relay is simultaneously detected and the presence of supply voltage is diagnosed by a control lamp.
Method-3. Performed without an assistant. The method is designed to identify the fuel pump relay based on the color scheme of the wires. On all Gazelle cars (ZMZ, UMZ engines) the outgoing wire from the fuel pump relay connector (pin “87”) is white.
Fuel pump relay (left)
If, during the check, the integrity of the wiring is established and there is voltage and ground at the fuel pump connector, then it is recommended to remove the fuel pump module from the tank and carefully inspect all existing contacts for burning. Sometimes a defect is detected instantly by the state of the melted motor.
Based on the results of checking the fuel pump, its normal operation is established, but the engine does not start or runs unbalanced after starting.
In this case, it is necessary to check the integrity of the electrical wiring harness connecting the injectors to the main cable and the control unit, check for the presence of positive voltage at all injector connectors, as well as incoming switching pulses when cranking the starter.
Missing pulses at the injector connectors with a simultaneous absence of a spark at the spark plugs indicates a malfunction of the synchronization sensor, the signal of which can be determined by diagnostic equipment.
Methods for solving the problem
Before proceeding directly to the process of solving the problem, you need to understand that diagnostics and repair of these components should be performed only with knowledge of the matter. Also, it is worth separately noting that for a carburetor and injection engine there will be different diagnostic methods, but the principle of the causes is the same.
So, it is worthwhile to consistently understand the diagnostic and repair work that will eliminate high idle speed.
IAC sensor
It is not often possible to find an idle air control sensor on carburetor engines. This is usually done using a quality and quantity screw. To normalize high idle speeds, you should not carry out the process cold. First, you should warm up the engine to operating temperature, and only then begin adjustments. If after making the adjustments the speed remains high, then the reason is different.
The wrong amount of air entering the combustion chamber can cause the ECU to over-idle. If the throttle position sensor is faulty, it must also be checked. This can be done with a multimeter or oscilloscope. If it is discovered that the TPS is faulty, it is worth replacing it.
Throttle valve
A stuck throttle can cause a large amount of air to enter the engine. This fact will force the electronic control unit to increase the amount of fuel injected to balance the mixture. This will increase the fuel consumption and accordingly.
In order to solve the problem, it is necessary to dismantle the unit and clean it using special means. If cleaning does not give the desired result, the throttle must be replaced, but you should be prepared that this will not be cheap.
Motor temperature sensor
A failure of the temperature sensor can lead to many problems. One of these will be an increase in idle speed. Typically, as practice shows, this sensor is the most vulnerable and most often fails because it is exposed to temperature changes.
First, it’s worth diagnosing the health of the unit. This can be done using a multimeter and an oscilloscope. If the unit is faulty, it should be replaced. After this, it is recommended to reset all ECU errors.
Collector
Often, due to the use of the vehicle, the intake manifold becomes deformed or the gasket wears out. Thus, an increase in idle speed may indicate that there is an air leak in the manifold. To treat the malfunction, you will have to dismantle the part, which is quite problematic, since almost the entire injection system and several components of other systems are attached to the manifold.
It is worth examining the manifold gasket in detail; the presence of damage may indicate not only problems with speed, but also other malfunctions. Also, deformation of the cavity can cause excess air to enter the combustion chambers. This can affect warming up, engine starting and other factors.
To fix the problem, you will have to grind the surface of the collector until it is smooth. In car services, this is done using a special machine. Of course, you can carry out the process in a garage, using a special stone, but this is not always possible for car owners.
Electronic control unit
Repeatedly high idle speed is a consequence of incorrect operation of the electronic control unit. So, to troubleshoot a problem, you will have to connect to the “brains” and fix the problem at the software level. To complete the process you will need a special cable and software.
But simply resetting errors does not always help; you often have to change the software in order for all the problems to finally go away. It is recommended to trust this process to masters who are professionals in their field.
Along with replacing the firmware, you can increase the power characteristics, which is also recommended to be entrusted to specialists. As practice shows, most car enthusiasts, when independently tampering with the ECU, end up in a car service center to eliminate the consequences of their own modifications.
Gazelle 406 engine injector all sensors
The ZMZ-4062 engine does not have the usual idle system, like in a carburetor. The function of the channels and idle jet is performed by a microprocessor control unit using fuel injectors and an additional air regulator.
The regulator (РХХ-60 or 0280 140 545) is installed on the receiver of the air intake system.
It is an electrically driven valve that regulates the air supply to the intake system, bypassing the throttle valve, which ensures that the specified idle speed is maintained in various engine operating modes (starting, warming up, engine braking, additional load from attachments).
In essence, it is an idle speed regulator.
If the regulator fails or there is a malfunction in its circuit, the control unit will turn on the KMSUD indicator lamp and write the corresponding fault code into the memory.
With a faulty regulator, the engine may stall at idle after starting and run at high speeds.
If, due to mechanical damage or contamination, the butterfly valve becomes stuck, the engine will be unstable at idle.
Pressure and emergency oil pressure sensors for ZMZ 405, 406, 409 engines
In order to monitor the pressure in the lubrication system of the ZMZ 405, 406 and 409 engines, two separate sensors are provided. One of them records the pressure value, and the second reacts to its critical drop.
Characteristics, design and principle of operation of the oil pressure sensor
The oil pressure sensor (OPS) is used to measure the lubricant pressure in the system. ZMZ power plants use MM358 type sensors with the following characteristics:
- working element - rheostat;
- rated current, A - 0.15;
- operating range, kgf/cm 2 – 0–6;
- resistance in the absence of pressure, Ohm - 159–173;
Pressure sensor MM358
The design of the MM358 pressure sensor consists of:
- housings with fittings;
- membranes;
- pusher
- rheostat;
- rheostat drive elements.
The basis of the sensor design is a rheostat
The MM358 sensor works together with the pressure indicator located on the vehicle’s instrument panel. It has an electromechanical design that responds to changes in sensor resistance.
The oil pressure sensor works in tandem with a pointer located on the dashboard
The operating principle of the MM358 sensor is as follows: when the engine is not running, there is no pressure in the lubrication system. The resistance of the sensor, in accordance with its characteristics, is 159–173 Ohms. When the power unit starts, the pressure increases, and the oil begins to act on the membrane, bending it inside the housing. By bending, it moves the transmission lever through the pusher, which, in turn, moves the rheostat sliders to the right, reducing the resistance of the sensor. The pointer reacts to this decrease by moving the arrow to the right.
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Why does the Gazelle 405 injection not start? Main reasons
Unfortunately, the difficulties with cars are different, do not start the injector Gazelle 405
for some reason most of the time. Drivers start scratching their heads, but from time to time it is impossible to find a solution to the problem.
At the moment, several more possible breakdowns will be considered in time, what kind of car don’t let go
When this happens, the first thing our client notices is. these are wires, spark plugs, pressure ramps and nozzles
In most cases, the Gazelle 405 injector does not start specifically through the spark plugs, so just change them. Unfortunately, the tasks seem more serious than candles.
Some, when the Gazelle 405 does not start, immediately change the temperature sensor to cool the water. The fact is that the engine may overheat precisely because of this, you do not want to start.
Try replacing the sensor and the cooling will return to normal. In any case, the safest option. take it to a car service center. There, real professionals will quickly deal with breakdowns and say that there weren’t that many cars. You will know in the future what exactly will be repaired.
Common reasons
Do not start the Gazelle 405 injector for any reason. There are hundreds you'll love, and it's not easy to save since there are endless parts. However, in most cases they break nozzles and spark plugs
. If the latter can be bought at any auto parts store, and even an inexperienced driver can replace them, then the former may have problems.
Problems with WMD 405 Euro 3
We are looking for the cause of the malfunction of the ZMZ 405 euro 3
We clean the throttle body while eliminating minor problems.
Grow up Gazelle. Troubleshooting (ZMZ 405 E3) by troubleshooting.
I'm looking for some, it starts
great, this will take seconds3
-5 at 2500-3000 rpm and
the booths
are hot. Now let's get started!
The fact is that in the Gazelle 405 it is very difficult to determine the situation, the snot has broken
Car service to help
If you decide to contact a service center, first perform engine diagnostics. Little experienced drivers understand the cause of the breakdown. At the same time, Gazelle 405 may not start for various reasons, and some of them can be resolved locally.
When you finally take your car to the dealership, at least check with your staff, most likely they will tell you what the problem is.
It is very important to know absolutely everything about your car
to protect yourself on the road and get extra work done. Sooner or later, any part can break, but it will be better if you are prepared for this.
Special cases
In addition to all of the above, there are other adventures with the Gazelle 405. Many drivers do not notice how the chain on the engine jumps. Accordingly, the engine refuses to come to life until the chain is in place.
Your task is simply to open the hood and check if the chain is good
, if not, put it in its place. This procedure will take 10 minutes at best, but you can start the car. The rest do not start the Gazelle 405 injector due to other problems.
It's difficult to answer this question, so we've just listed some of the most common rejection options for you. You can only get an accurate answer after a thorough diagnosis. It is at this stage that you can find out the reason why the car refuses to start. So don’t worry and it’s better to contact a car service.
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see also
Comments 20
Hello everyone, guys, please tell me what the reason may be, I'm already tired of overpaying the mechanics for the engine 405 euros 2 2006, rebuilt the engine, compression 14-15, changed the throttle, cleaned the injectors, changed all the engine wiring spark plugs, spark plug wires, coils also work well, fuel pump pressure is good at idle the engine is shaking non-diagnostic mechanics cannot give an exact answer, everyone just assumes, and I change everything they say, but the problem remains.
There's an air leak somewhere... Maybe it's not in phase... Or the IAC is dirty...
No choke 100 percent ignition set according to the pattern injectors new clean engine wiring new spark plugs and spark plug wires also new computer connected another same story this is what the Diagnostics gave
Tightness... It’s either the valve, or the rubber on the injector is torn, or maybe the hydraulic valve is stuck!
No choke 100 percent ignition set according to the pattern injectors new clean engine wiring new spark plugs and spark plug wires also new computer connected another same story this is what the Diagnostics gave
The template can break... For the ideal phase, you need to put split stars...
The stars are normal and the ignition is set correctly. What is this? And I also want to clean the air flow sensor, but I don’t know how to clean it?
The idle air control is located on the receiver... If the mass air flow sensor is not plated, you shouldn’t go there... You’ll break the thread and hello to the new sensor...
Hi all! 405 dv euro 2 had the same problem, the speed floated when starting the dv 2000-3000 rpm, even on gas it sometimes stalled while driving (I solved the problem! I removed the IAC and cleaned it (first I sprayed it for the carbs, then I sprayed it) and everything was fine)
I bought a 2007 gazelle not long ago, long-wheelbase, 405 doors, simple, with two reels. It turned out to be a problem, the revolutions fluctuate, slowly rise to 1500 and drop sharply to 1000. There were such tips as changing the mass air flow sensor on the pipe from the air filter, the throttle sensor, the idle speed controller, and cleaning the throttle valve. The reason turned out to be simple, right under the intake manifolds, a rupture of the adsorber (absorber) hose (which takes gasoline vapors from the tank). There was simply air leaking into the intake manifold, and the computer and sensors reacted at such speeds.
I don’t have an adsorber... the pipe there is plugged...
Operating principle of the ZMZ 405 idle speed sensor
In addition, the ECU receives signals about the temperature of the coolant and oil in the system. When starting in the cold season, it is necessary to warm up the engine to operating temperature in order to reduce wear on friction parts, so the IAC channel opens slightly to enrich the mixture for the injector, even without the driver pressing the gas pedal.
At the moment of start, the operating algorithm is as follows:
- the key turns, the ignition turns on;
- the rod extends all the way, the needle blocks the bypass channel;
- at the moment the rod rests against the calibration hole, the computer counts the steps backward;
- voltage is applied to the windings, the valve returns to the open position.
If the idle speed sensor is ZMZ 405, I suggest you do the following procedure:
Contamination or failure of the idle air valve
The idle valve is designed to maintain high speeds on a cold engine when warming up and ensure minimum speeds when the engine is idling. It also prevents the speed from falling below the set limit when the throttle is closed. Contamination of the valve makes it impossible to operate normally and can cause insufficient air supply to the injection system, which causes interruptions in the operation of the engine, even stopping. Symptoms usually appear when the accelerator pedal is suddenly released. This usually does not happen on gas.
The solution to the problem is to clean the valve using a special degreasing compound or spray. If the procedure does not return the part to operability, the valve must be replaced. Together with the valve, it is worth checking the state of contamination and, if necessary, cleaning the throttle valve.
The Gazelle floats at 405 engine speed on gas.
Messages: 139 Registered: June 23, 2008, 00:00 Experience: 2002 Car: gas 31105, gas 330232
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Post by andrey_mustang » 06 Dec 2014, 17:16
diagnostics were made no errors my brains were flashed MAF new throttle valve new coil modules new spark plugs new gene new it remains to change the pedal engine knock sensor crankshaft and camshaft sensors I just don’t see the point since there are no errors at all everything working was even rearranged from a working car, I noticed when Press the pedal a little, then the revs are kept level and don’t float. Tomorrow I’ll try to install the brains from a working gazelle, not stitched, and the gas pedal
Added after 39 seconds:
Advise someone who knows a good diagnostician.
Messages: 140 Registered: March 04, 2009, 00:00 From: Tyumen Experience: since 2007 Car: gas 3110, honda nv 750cust
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Posted by dentist » Dec 07, 2014, 01:26
Source
Reasons for floating speed on gas
Solving the problem of unstable idle on gas
Then washing them on a special stand will help you. If you have Valtek type injectors, then they need to be disassembled, washed and, if possible, replaced with a repair kit. Then calibrate.
Reason 2.
Cheap gas injectors tend to dose fuel into the cylinders differently over time, so they need to be calibrated every 30,000 km. (Valtek, Alex, RegRail, etc.) on a calibration stand with a dial indicator.
Reason 3.
Due to incorrect settings of the air-gas mixture map, the engine will also not operate stably at idle. The solution to the problem is fine adjustment with your own hands, or visiting a specialist from a specialized service.
Reason 4.
If there is an air leak in the engine intake tract, the car will also work poorly on both gas and gasoline, but the problem will be clearly expressed on gas. To solve this problem, visit a service station with a smoke generator to detect suction. After eliminating the suction, reconfiguring the gas block is not necessary.
Reason 5.
The problem with interruptions in the power supply of the gas block supplied to the terminals leads to malfunctions of the 4th generation gas equipment. Due to the lack of current power, the gas block simply does not have enough power to supply a full impulse to open the nozzle. How to detect this problem, it’s simple, you need to connect to the gas block and look at the “Voltage” parameter, if the voltage drops to less than 12.3 volts, then check the terminals, the charge of the generator and the battery.
Problem 6.
Contamination on the throttle valve walls and malfunction of the idle air regulator. In this case, due to a very dirty throttle assembly, when the engine is running on gas, the idle speed controller cannot catch a stable idle speed. However, it will work fine on gasoline. Why is this so: gasoline enters the combustion chamber under pressure, in atomized form, and gas enters the combustion chamber due to vacuum (suction into the engine), and if the regulator is already worn out, then the vacuum will constantly change, and the air-gas mixture will be lean then enriched. Solution to the problem: cleaning the throttle body and replacing the idle speed sensor.
Problem 7.
According to regulations, some engines require valve adjustment every 40,000 km. If you do not do this, the engine will run unstably on gas. If engine performance gradually deteriorates, you should contact a valve adjustment specialist.
Problem 8.
The saddest reason is the wear of the CPG. To determine the wear state of the engine, the first step is to measure the compression.
These are the most common reasons for floating idle speed when the engine is running on gas (propane-butane) with 4th generation gas equipment installed.
Source
Increased idle speed: reasons
The idle mode (idle speed) is a mode of operation of the internal combustion engine that is necessary to maintain the process of fuel combustion in the cylinders at a minimum level, that is, so that the engine continues to operate and does not stall. On different engines, the idle speed may differ and also depend on the temperature of the internal combustion engine.
If the indicated idle speed increases, the engine begins to consume more fuel, and the exhaust in this mode becomes more toxic. A decrease in idle speed leads to unstable operation of the power unit, as well as to the fact that the engine begins to stall after releasing the gas pedal.
In this article we will talk about what could be the reason for high engine idle speeds, why high idle speeds on a warm engine are found in many cars, and also consider the main ways to diagnose this malfunction.
We also recommend reading the article about why the engine does not pick up speed. From this article you will learn about the main reasons why the power unit may not spin up to high speeds or may not gain speed when you press the gas pedal, etc.
High engine speed at idle: injector
Engine speed and operation at idle actually means that air is supplied to the engine bypassing the throttle valve. In other words, at idle the specified damper is closed. Note that the normal idle speed for different units is about 650-950 rpm. In parallel with this, a common malfunction is that when the engine is warm, the idle speed remains at around 1500 rpm and above. This indicator is a sign of a malfunction that should be eliminated.
It should also be noted that the idle speed “floats”, that is, for example, it increases to 1800 rpm, after which it decreases to 750 and increases again. Very often, increased idle speed and floating speed are the result of the same breakdowns. Let's take a look at a gasoline-injected unit as an example.
In such an internal combustion engine, engine speed depends on the amount of intake air. It turns out that the more the throttle valve opens, the more air enters the intake manifold.
Then the ECU determines the amount of incoming air, simultaneously takes into account the throttle opening angle (throttle position) and a number of other parameters, after which it supplies the appropriate amount of gasoline.
If the ECU does not have accurate information about the amount of air due to a malfunction, then the following will happen: the controller will first raise the speed, enriching the mixture (more fuel is supplied). Then, with so much fuel and an additional volume of air that the ECU does not know about, the mixture will become leaner, and the engine will begin to operate unstably or may almost stall. In other words, the revs will start to drop when the mixture is too lean. Reducing the speed means that the amount of air sucked in by the unit also decreases. At a certain point, the mixture (fuel to air ratio) will again be optimal, causing the speed to rise again and then begin to fall or “float”. The reason for such operation of the internal combustion engine may be a failed or intermittently operating TPS or mass air flow sensor. You should also take into account possible air leaks at the inlet.
Another case is when the engine keeps the idle speed at about 1500-1900 rpm, while running smoothly, the speed does not fluctuate. In this case, we can assume that the injector supplies enough fuel in idle mode that it is enough to operate at such high speeds. In other words, there is excessive fuel consumption.
These features may be typical for some engines and absent for others, since there is a dependence on the design of a specific injection system (units with an air flow meter, engines with a pressure sensor in the intake manifold).
It is obvious that air leaks are a common cause of increased engine speed or floating speed at idle.
Now let's figure out where excess air can enter the intake. You should look for the problem in four main directions:
- throttle valve;
- channel XX;
- device for maintaining “warm-up” speed;
- servomotor for forced increase in speed XX;
As for the first case, the opening of the throttle valve is controlled by the gas pedal. At idle, the engine should run without pressing the accelerator. It is worth considering that on many cars the gas pedal is mechanical, that is, it is connected to the throttle opening mechanism with a regular cable. If this cable is soured, kinked or overtightened, and problems arise with the mechanism itself, then a banal effect of pressing the gas pedal may occur. In this case, the engine will maintain increased speed, since the ECU believes that the driver is pressing the accelerator and the throttle is slightly open.
In the second case, excess air can pass through the idle passage. Such a channel is available on the vast majority of injection internal combustion engines. This air channel bypasses the throttle valve and is called the idle channel. The implementation of the circuit has a special adjusting screw. Using this screw, you can change the cross-section of the channel, thereby increasing or decreasing the amount of air entering the engine and adjusting the idle speed.
Another place where air leaks are possible is a device that maintains high idle speeds while the internal combustion engine is warming up. To put it simply, there is a separate air channel, which contains a solution for closing it after the engine warms up (rod or damper). The shut-off device itself contains a sensitive thermoelement. On many units, this element interacts with antifreeze in the cooling system, like a thermostat. On a hot engine, the device operates in such a way that the rod extends completely or the damper rotates at such an angle as to completely block the channel for supplying additional air.
Replacing the sensor
Replacing the sensor is possible in a garage, but if the driver does not have the proper skills and knowledge of how the car works, you should entrust the replacement of the IAC to a car service center to avoid making mistakes.
Replacement occurs as follows:
- It is necessary to completely turn off the ignition and remove the key.
- Then remove the negative terminal from the battery.
- Using a thin flat screwdriver, unclip the block clamp and disconnect the regulator connector.
- Next, using an ohmmeter, we measure the resistance readings of the sensor windings. A faulty regulator will have a resistance on each of the two windings in the range of 10–15 ohms.
- If after measurements the sensor turns out to be faulty, then it must be removed from the engine and replaced with a new one.
This way the faulty regulator is replaced
It is important to replace with exactly the same model that was installed previously.
How does it work
In carburetor engines, there is often a problem with enriching the fuel with oxygen during engine starting; this was solved by a special starting handle and an adjustable washer. With the invention of electronic ignition, this task was taken over by the idle air regulator (IAC), which works in conjunction with other sensors, as well as the electronic control unit, starting the injector.
The principle of operation of the mechanism looks like this:
- The regulator is calibrated automatically by the control unit as soon as this sensor is detected in the system.
- In fact, the IAC is a small stepper motor with an installed conical needle, which releases air.
- The IAC does not transmit signals to the “brain” of the car, but receives them from the main controller.
- When the on-board computer detects that there is not enough air in the fuel, using signals from the mass air flow sensor, it compares these indicators with the signal from the air metering sensor. Then a current is supplied to the regulator, which removes the needle from the valve, thereby opening the passage for air, which enters and mixes with the fuel.
doesn't work well 4216
doesn't work well 4216
#1 Post by vova59 » 10/23/2013, 09:15
Re: doesn't work well 4216
#2 Post by putnik51 » 10/23/2013, 09:52
Re: doesn't work well 4216
#3 Message by SergA » 10.23.2013, 19:38
Re: doesn't work well 4216
#4 Post by serdg159 » 10/23/2013, 9:12 pm
Re: doesn't work well 4216
#5 Post by vova59 » 10/24/2013, 08:59
Everything is fine with the tags. Why everyone is talking about the exhaust manifold is not clear. Personally, I drove with a rattling exhaust pipe for 15-20 thousand and did not observe any jerks. (Once upon a time it was summer, season). The consumption was a little higher, but the muffler didn’t shoot, which means you can drive. There cannot be a leak in the exhaust because there is exhaust pressure there.
Re: doesn't work well 4216
#13 Message by vova59 » 10.24.2013, 21:30
You write that you turned off DK1 and that it didn’t help. I don’t understand in what sense: did the swimming remain, or did the motor work poorly? In theory, disabling DK1 should help, but in this case it is necessary to do a reset with initialization in order to reset the accumulated corrections.
I started today by replacing the wires and spark plugs (installing the old ones did not help). I changed the camshaft sensor (old) and did not help. I started to turn off the sensors (I turned off the DBP yesterday): 1 TPS did not help +2 barrel xx - did not help +3 oxygen No. 1 - did not help. Four are disabled and the car at xx works as before with floating speed. Started turning it back on. 1 TPDZ 2 barrel xx and the car started working. But when DBP and No. 1 are turned on, it enriches the mixture. The car is 2010. Mileage is 106,000. It overheats to the red zone 8 times. Head milling 2 times + replacement of caps and grinding of valves. If it works without overheating, it will last. It was a pity to spend money on email. fan. Thermal shock eats away at the motor invisibly. There are dry cartridges here. And don’t turn it off after a load, let it run for a few minutes like on a diesel engine with a turbine, so that the antifreeze doesn’t throw out.
Source
Replacing the sensor
Replacing the sensor is possible in a garage, but if the driver does not have the proper skills and knowledge of how the car works, you should entrust the replacement of the IAC to a car service center to avoid making mistakes.
Replacement occurs as follows:
- It is necessary to completely turn off the ignition and remove the key.
- Then remove the negative terminal from the battery.
- Using a thin flat screwdriver, unclip the block clamp and disconnect the regulator connector.
- Next, using an ohmmeter, we measure the resistance readings of the sensor windings. A faulty regulator will have a resistance on each of the two windings in the range of 10–15 ohms.
- If after measurements the sensor turns out to be faulty, then it must be removed from the engine and replaced with a new one.
This way the faulty regulator is replaced
It is important to replace with exactly the same model that was installed previously.
Gazelle Speeds Float When Warming Up.
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- City: Nizhny Novgorod region, town of Reshetikha
- Gender: Man
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- City: Khanty-Mansi Autonomous Okrug
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vk.com/gaz86avto vk.com/petrovich_86 792242 zero 4444 [email protected]
NP ADACT
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#6 mednik
Knowing infinity requires infinite time.
APC-Users
1729 messages
- City: Nizhny Novgorod region, town of Reshetikha
- Gender: Man
Thanks for the help. I’m still learning this parameter now, maybe someone else can help - https://www.birzhaplus.ru/avto/?5762.
Here's another from the chip tuner -
DMRV. In such a system, air leakage into the throttle space means that unaccounted air flows bypassing the mass air flow sensor. Of course, the fuel correction coefficient will be noticeably higher than unity. But! This coefficient may be high due to low fuel pressure, for example, or due to clogged injectors. To distinguish suction from low pressure, you can use the following method: 1. Look at the coefficient when working at XX. Well, let it be 1.2. Remember. 2. Raise the thousand revolutions to 4. Look at the coefficient. Yeah, it dropped to 1. This is almost 100% suction. 3. Again, for control, look at XX. Again 1.2.
Why does this happen? Because the suction is a small hole. When operating at XX, the amount of air passing through it is quite significant. And when working at speed, this suction is like shot to an elephant. Why do I say “small hole”, because a large hole simply will not allow the engine to run at idle. article belongs to – Is_18
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Filters
Filters need to be replaced periodically. Typically the interval is 10 thousand km. However, as practice shows, sometimes it is because of a clogged filter that the speed fluctuates when the car is running on gas. This applies to both the coarse filter and the fine filter. In the first case, you will need to remove the filter for disassembly. Fine filters, as a rule, cannot be repaired and must be replaced.
Gazelle stalls and idle speed fluctuates – Debtor protection
Mass air flow sensor) Lada 2110 It, like the crankcase ventilation valve, can become covered with a dirty oil film during long-term operation, which ultimately leads to its failure.
Quite rarely, the hot-wire anemometer in the mass flow sensor breaks down - the element responsible for measuring the volume of air entering the engine combustion chamber.
In this case, the ECU does not receive correct data on the mass air flow and requires it to be supplied to the cylinders, which results in jumps in engine speed.
The fifth reason is incorrect operation of the throttle valve, the function of which is to regulate the air pressure supplied to the engine cylinders. throttle valve It can jam for two reasons: an oil deposit appears on the inner surface of the valve “penny”, which prevents the valve from closing and opening normally, and also due to a malfunction of the throttle valve drive.
Problems in the cooling system should not be ruled out. If the car stalls at idle, check the thermostat. If the valve is faulty, the mechanism does not allow the engine to quickly warm up to operating temperatures. In the summer, the car often boils.
In detail about the intake system Since the engine needs not only gasoline, but also oxygen to operate, problems with speed concern the intake air manifold. Such troubles occur due to air leaks in the place that comes after the filter.
As a result, the air flow meter sensor is not able to control the process, and the car stalls at idle. The injector is often equipped with a mass air flow sensor
Don't ignore him
403 - access denied
Attention
If the car does not have a tachometer, then the floating speed can be heard by ear: the rumble of the engine either increases or decreases. And also - by the increasing and decreasing vibrations penetrating into the car interior from the engine compartment.
As a rule, unstable engine speed occurs at idle. But even at intermediate engine speeds, dips or rises in the tachometer needle can be detected - this is typical for diesel engines.
Let's consider these two cases separately to understand why these phenomena occur. Jumps in idle speed Floating idle speed most often occurs on injection engines.
This is due to the peculiarity of regulating the operation of the idle system by the electronic engine control unit (ECU).
Auto-assistance
Important
In this case, we recommend not to seal it with electrical tape, but to replace the worn hose with a new one. 2. Replacing the idle air control. The condition of the IAC is checked using a multimeter, which measures its resistance.
If the multimeter shows a resistance in the range from 40 to 80 ohms, then the regulator is faulty and will have to be replaced. 3. Cleaning the crankcase ventilation valve. Here you cannot do without disassembling the oil sump - this is the only way to get to its ventilation and remove the valve. We wash it in kerosene or any means for cleaning engine parts from traces of oil sludge. Then we dry the valve and install it in place. 4. Replacing the mass air flow sensor. The air flow sensor is a delicate part and in most cases cannot be repaired. So if this is the cause of the floating speed at idle, it is better to replace it rather than repair it.
Gas speed fluctuates - causes and ways to eliminate them
The electronic “brains” of the car constantly read information about the idle speed, and if it is violated, they give a command to the sensors responsible for the correct functioning of the system to correct the situation.
Idling may be disrupted due to excess air getting into the fuel system, and specifically into the engine cylinders. In this case, the mass air flow sensor signals the ECU that excess air has entered the combustion chamber.
Volga gas club
All of the above reasons for the appearance of unstable engine speeds have several consequences: increased fuel consumption, the release of exhaust gases with a high CO content into the atmosphere, wear and tear on the elements of the fuel system and the engine air supply system.
To prevent this, it is necessary to periodically check the operation of the systems and sensors listed above, and if trouble does occur and the speed is “feverish”, immediately repair all breakdowns. Correcting floating engine speeds 1. Air leaks into the engine cylinders.
To do this, you can remove each hose individually and blow it out using a compressor or pump (a labor-intensive process), or you can treat the hoses with WD-40. At the place where the “Vedashka” quickly evaporates, a crack can be found.
Checking the malfunction of the Idle Air Controller on ZMZ 406, 405,409
If your car begins to show signs of increased or uneven engine idling with involuntary stopping, and you also begin to play along with the gas pedal when starting, then one of the reasons may be the incorrect operation of the Idle Air Controller (IAC).
IAC is a conventional stepper motor consisting of four windings located at right angles to each other and to a ring magnet. A stepper electric motor moves (closes or opens) a shut-off valve (cylinder) that regulates the intake air supply, bypassing the throttle valve through an additional IAC channel, and thereby maintaining the required idle speed when starting the engine and warming it up, as well as during braking or when turning on additional electrical devices that can cause a voltage drop: air conditioning, headlights, etc.
Those. The IAC is a conventional actuator that receives the necessary controlled signal from the ECU. The IAC motor rotates to close or, conversely, open the shut-off valve with a specified number of steps. The ECU reads the steps from the fully closed shut-off valve to the stopper.
It is not always possible to identify an IAC malfunction with a diagnostic tool, since the cause of too high speeds at start-up, or, conversely, spontaneous engine shutdown at idle speed, can be caused by a malfunction associated with the mechanical part of the IAC. The worm gear of the engine rotor may slip in some position and the ECU will incorrectly read the number of steps.
In the IAC there is a metal damper in the form of a cylinder that regulates the air flow, which, if dirty or damaged, will stick or jam, and this will also cause incorrect operation of the entire electronic system.
When starting a cold engine, the Electronic Control Unit (ECU) receives a signal from the Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF) about the amount of air entering the system, compares it with the signal coming from the Coolant Temperature Sensor (DTOS), and based on these data, generates a signal and delivers it to the injectors. If, at this moment, there is not enough air to create the required fuel mixture at a given speed and temperature, then the ECU sends an IAC signal to open the shut-off valve more, and additional air is supplied to the combustion chamber. The engine begins to operate at higher speeds, absorbing more fuel and air.
: If the IAC is not working properly, then you have to keep the gas pedal pressed, supplying additional air to the intake and, accordingly, even more gasoline into the fuel rail, since the ECU begins to receive a high signal from the TPS.
The engine has reached the required temperature. The ECU receives a signal from the DTOZh and mass air flow sensor and, having determined that the engine has warmed up, reduces the fuel supply to the injectors, and, naturally, sends a signal to close the IAC valve. Less fuel and air enter the intake - the engine begins to operate at a stable idle speed.
While the car is moving, the ECU receives a signal from the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) about the opening or closing of the throttle valve, and after carrying out the appropriate analysis, also receiving a signal from the mass air flow sensor and DTOZh, regulates the fuel supply and, if necessary, closes or opens the IAC to the required (specified) algorithm) number of steps. Closing corresponds to 1 step, and fully open corresponds to 255 steps.
You need to understand the main thing: the IAC engine does not just close or open the shut-off valve, but moves, using a worm gear, a certain number of steps that the ECU sets to its windings.
Checking the IAC without using a diagnostic tool
With the ignition off and the battery terminal removed (minus), in the back of the IAC, disconnect its connector (marked with a red arrow) and measure the resistance of the IAC windings using a conventional Chinese multimeter, setting it to measure resistance. The resistance should be from 10 to 14 ohms. We measure between the middle terminal and the right, and then with the left contact.
