Faulty Fuel Injectors - How much damage can a faulty fuel injector cause? If your fuel injectors are running on Krauts, you will definitely notice a difference while driving. Left unchecked, faulty fuel injectors can damage the engine enough to prevent the car from running, but there is usually time to catch and fix the problem.
Faulty fuel injectors on late model vehicles will make their presence known by causing a cylinder misfire. This is because in newer fuel injection systems the injectors fire sequentially, and when the engine misses a dose of fuel, it will not run smoothly and may suffer over time. This is less of a problem in older cars with simultaneous injection systems because good fuel injectors can sometimes compensate for weaker injectors, allowing the engine to regain its consistency faster.
However, faulty injectors cannot be ignored or ignored for long. Dirty or worn injectors can also cause fire or detonation [source: Carly]. Detonation is a fairly common problem in which the gas remaining at the end of the normal air/fuel combustion cycle (which is started by the spark plug) spontaneously combusts. In some cases, detonation is harmless, but the pressure can cause engine components to fail and cause pitting and scuffing around the pistons. Pre-ignition is when air and fuel burn before the spark plug ignites, causing the engine temperature to rise significantly and damage the pistons. This problem is much more likely to indicate a leaky injector than detonation because it is quite rare in fuel injected engines.
Leaking injectors can also cause a car to flood, which is when the engine shuts down due to excess fuel entering the system. The fuel then evaporates after the car evaporates, settles, and is purged, which can cause significant damage [source: Allen].
Try cleaning the injectors before you consider replacing [source: Carley]. If replacement is the only option, note that at the very least, you will only need to replace the faulty injectors [source: Carley]. They can cost several hundred dollars apiece, depending on your vehicle, but you can ask your mechanic to look for remanufactured or OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer or Factory Quality) refurbished ones to reduce the cost.
Whether your injectors are new or old, now is the time to start preventive maintenance. Read on the next page to learn more about fuel systems and car care.
Articles on the topic
Sources
- Allen, Mike. "Auto Clinic" Popular mechanics. June 26, 2006 (accessed July 20, 2010) https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/repair-questions/2881211
- Allen, Mike. "Auto Clinic Expert Q&A - Fuel Injection." Popular mechanics. October 1, 2009 (accessed July 17, 2010) https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/2593311
- Allen, Mike. "Fuel Additives, ABS Headlights, Fuel Injection, Stuck Pedals and Timing Belts: Mike Allen's Weekly Online Clinic." Popular mechanics. October 1, 2009 (accessed July 20, 2010) https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/4216120
- Carley, Larry. "Technical advice: diagnostics of fuel pumps and injectors." Import Automobile Magazine. November 13, 2008 (accessed July 20, 2010) https://www.import-car.com/Article/40412/tech_tip_diagnosing_fuel_pumps_and_injectors.aspx
- Kline, Allen W. "Engine Fundamentals: Knock and Pre-Ignition." Contact! Magazine via Streetrod Stuff. January-February 2000 (accessed July 20, 2010) https://www.streetrodstuff.com/Articles/Engine/Detonation/
- Delphi. "Delphi Multec Gasoline Multiport Injectors." (Accessed July 21, 2010) https://delphi.com/manufacturers/auto/powertrain/gas/injsys/multecmpfi/
- Pro Flow Technologies. (Accessed July 21, 2010) https://www.proflowtech.com/technology.htm
,
Where is the VAZ 2114 engine temperature sensor located?
The problem of engine overheating is well known to many owners of domestic cars.
The VAZ 2110 (2111, 2112) and 2113 (2114, 2115) lines were equipped with small-volume cooling radiators, so when driving for a long time in hot summer weather, the VAZ “normally” heats up to 105-108 degrees. But if the temperature goes through the roof even after a short trip, this is a reason to think about problems with the cooling system. A high operating temperature of the engine may also indicate serious malfunctions. But in most cases, the VAZ 2114 heats up for minor reasons, including:
- thermostat malfunction;
- malfunction of the coolant temperature sensor (DTOZH);
- malfunction of the high pressure valve in the coolant tank cap;
- clogged radiator.
injector - how fuel injection systems work
A fuel injector is nothing more than an electronically controlled valve. It comes with the pressurized fuel pump in your car and can open and close many times per second.
| Inside the fuel injector |
When the injector is energized, an electromagnet moves a piston, which opens a valve, allowing pressurized fuel to flow through a tiny nozzle. The injector is designed to atomize the fuel to create as little mist as possible so it can burn easily.
| Fuel burner |
The amount of fuel supplied to the engine depends on how long the fuel injector is open. This is called pulse width and is controlled by the ECU.
| Fuel injectors installed in the engine intake manifold |
The injectors are mounted in the intake manifold so that fuel is sprayed directly onto the intake valves. The tube, the fuel rail, supplies fuel under pressure to all the injectors.
| In this photo you can see three injectors. The fuel rail is the tube on the left. |
The engine control unit is equipped with many sensors to ensure the correct amount of fuel is supplied. Let's look at some of them.
,
Consideration of the issue of engine warming up from a theoretical point of view
The components of our engine, namely pistons and rings, are most often made of aluminum, steel alloys and cast iron. You've probably heard the term "engine seized" before, but haven't given it much meaning. The engine seizes when, due to overheating, the aluminum pistons expand and rub against the cylinder walls, when there should be a certain gap between them. In an engine that is not warmed up, this gap is very large, which leads to low thrust.
When we start a cold engine, cold air with a high oxygen content enters the combustion chamber, and gasoline is supplied in the same amount. Mixing these two components results in a lean mixture. In a carburetor system, a choke will help cure this deficiency, which will increase engine speed, and the injection system will automatically balance the mixture, which will also increase the number of engine speeds.
Also, do not forget that cold oil has a higher viscosity, as a result of which a greater load is placed on the engine.
Why does the engine on a VAZ-2114 get hot?
Elevated coolant temperature leads to engine failure
The main culprits for excessive increases in coolant temperature are:
- jammed valve in the expansion tank cap;
- temperature sensor (DTOZH);
- inoperative cooling system fan or faulty wiring;
- faulty thermostat (see “replacing the thermostat on a VAZ-2114 with your own hands)”;
- excessively dirty radiator. Either the honeycomb or the radiator is clogged inside (the only option is to replace it with a new one)
All of the above components and parts have a significant impact on the operation of the cooling system, and in the event of a malfunction, they contribute to an increase in engine temperature above normal. Each of the parts of this system can be checked independently and if a malfunction is detected, it can be eliminated.
Diagnostics and elimination of overheating
Troubleshooting should be divided into stages and started in the following order:
- Expansion tank cap . In its design, it has a built-in valve that ensures the creation of the necessary pressure in the system. If it breaks, the antifreeze will begin to boil in the expansion tank.
Often this valve gets stuck in the open or closed position.
An open position will make it impossible to create pressure, while the liquid will not circulate normally and will begin to overheat. The closed position, on the contrary, will prevent the formed gases from leaving the system and create excess pressure at which the engine will boil. To check, just unscrew the cap and look at its internal condition; if there are traces of scale and other contaminants, the part is replaced with a new one.
Checking the expansion tank cap for scale
If you discover that the fan is operating late or does not turn on, the temperature sensor must be urgently changed.
Changing the coolant temperature sensor
We carry out a visual inspection of the cooling fan
We inspect the radiator, if necessary, dismantle and clean the honeycombs
Symptoms of overheating
The temperature arrow tends to the red zone - soon overheating
A fully warmed-up engine has an operating temperature in the range from 92 to 102 ° C , exceeding which can cause big trouble. Its condition is monitored by a sensor that turns on the cooling fan. The fan turns on on the stock firmware at a temperature of 102 °C .
The first symptom of engine overheating is the reading on the instrument panel; in this case, its needle approaches the red indicator.
Steam from under the hood
Steam from under the hood
If steam appears from under the hood, this indicates an increased temperature of the coolant of the power unit.
Strongly heated antifreeze splashes out of the expansion tank cap and hits the hot engine elements, which is why steam is formed. In this case, wet traces will form under the car, which have a characteristic smell of coolant.
Squeezes antifreeze out of the expansion tank
If these symptoms appear, you should immediately stop using the car and start looking for symptoms of overheating , otherwise the engine may fail, which will lead to an expensive overhaul.
Normal engine temperature
For all previously produced cars (since 1992), the normal operating temperature of the engine was 90 degrees C. This value was generally accepted not only for Russia, but for the whole World, and all automakers were based on it in their standards. With the further development of automotive technology, it became clear that it is not always possible to adhere to the specified figure (especially due to the variety of engines and their systems).
As a result, at the newly held international congress, it was determined that the standard operating temperature for gasoline engines of all types will henceforth be considered the range from +85 C to +105 C. Any engine temperature within these limits is considered normal, but any, even small exceeding it to a greater extent is already overheating.
If we talk about Lada cars, including the 14th model, then the normal operating range will be a temperature from +87 to +103 C. This interval is the most optimal both in terms of performance and engine load.
If the temperature in the engine drops below the specified norm, the car will lose power and acceleration dynamics. If the temperature goes beyond the upper limits, the engine can boil and suffer significant damage (long-term driving with a boiling engine can threaten not only its serious damage, but also wear and tear on the units adjacent to it).
Reasons for long engine warm-up
- The ambient temperature is too low and, as a result, the coolant temperature in the radiator is too low. The easiest way out of this situation is to insulate the radiator, engine compartment, hood and engine. Ordinary plywood or cardboard inserted in front of the radiator very quickly and effectively solves the problem of engine cooling while driving. As for the car blanket and hood insulation, with this solution a cold engine will warm up faster and reach operating temperatures.
- Thermostat is not working properly. For those who do not know or simply forgot, it is worth recalling that this part is responsible for directing the flow of coolant along the large or small cooling circle. The small circle prevents antifreeze or antifreeze from entering the radiator and ensures its circulation only inside the engine. As a result, the motor heats up faster.
Only after heating the liquid to a certain temperature does the thermostat work and release antifreeze through the radiator for better cooling. In turn, antifreeze not only performs the function of cooling the engine during operation, but also maintains the set operating temperature of the unit.
A constantly open thermostat prevents antifreeze from reaching the required temperature in winter. This is why the engine takes a long time to warm up at this time of year. Solution: repair or replace the thermostat.
- Air lock in the cooling system. As with any heating system, air interferes with the normal passage of fluid. In this case, it is necessary to determine the cause of the traffic jam and eliminate it.
We also recommend reading the article about why the engine does not warm up to operating temperature. From this article you will learn about the main reasons why the power unit warms up, but the heating is insufficient.
- A less common cause of long warm-up may be a feature of the factory settings of the car’s electronic control unit (firmware) or their incorrect settings during flashing (chip tuning). One of the easiest solutions is to install an additional on-board computer with a function for adjusting the fan temperature.
- Premature operation of the cooling system fan can also lead to long warm-up times. It happens that the specified fan turns on even after starting a cold engine.
Warming up the car is pointless and harmful
Now times are different, but the car still needs to be warmed up a little (this is my personal opinion). Physics has not been canceled: at low temperatures, oil becomes more viscous. Oil pumpability through the system decreases, causing the engine to operate in conditions of lubrication deficiency. This primarily affects cylinders, pistons, bearings and other parts. Insufficient oil film thickness leads to metal-on-metal friction in parts, causing accelerated wear. This also applies to transmissions, especially automatic ones, since transmission oils also become more viscous at sub-zero temperatures (you can read more about this here). Now let's be honest.
Do you warm up your car in winter?
Open to: All, detailed results viewable to: All. Participants: 388
Do you warm up your car in winter?
Sometimes (if there is time) 81 (21.0%)
Causes of malfunction
The most likely cause of a car overheating at high speed is a faulty thermostat. If you are driving at high speed, the load on the engine in your car is much greater than when driving at low speed.
Due to the load, the motor needs more significant cooling. To achieve this, the cooling system pumps more coolant into the system when driving at high speeds to cool the engine. This process is regulated by a thermostat, which may periodically fail.
For example, the thermostat may not open, resulting in a lack of coolant in a certain area of the system to cool the engine. In this case, your engine will very quickly heat up to critical values.
Therefore, never forget to constantly monitor the engine temperature using the gauge on your dashboard.
If the temperature arrow shifts towards the red value, stop the car and check the serviceability of the cooling system.
Arrow stuck on dashboard
It’s probably no secret to anyone that the arrows hanging on the dashboard are inextricably linked with the electrical circuits in the car. To troubleshoot the problem, the car enthusiast will need some knowledge of auto electrics, as well as design knowledge of the VAZ-2114.
As practice shows, most motorists, when such a breakdown occurs, turn to a car service center, but this problem can be eliminated on their own. But, first of all, it is necessary to find the immediate cause of the effect.
Faulty thermostat
The VAZ-2114 thermostat is the main element for distributing coolant flows. It is he who regulates the direction of its movement when the engine is cold and when it is warm. The essence of the thermostat is to switch the refrigerant flow from a small to a large circle when it reaches a certain temperature. If it starts to jam, the motor will either take a very long time to warm up, or very quickly.
You can check the VAZ-2114 thermostat in the following way. Start the engine and warm it up to a temperature of 90-95 degrees. Without turning off the ignition, touch the lower radiator hose. If it is warm (hot), then everything is in order: the coolant circulates in a large circle and overheating due to the thermostat is excluded here. If the pipe is cold, get ready to replace this part.
Tank cap
Another cause of overheating may be a plug in the expansion tank. It is designed in such a way as to maintain a certain pressure in the system, which is higher than atmospheric pressure. This is necessary to ensure that the water in the antifreeze or antifreeze does not boil at 100 degrees Celsius. If the plug is faulty and does not hold the required pressure, the coolant may boil prematurely. This will not cause significant overheating of the motor, but may cause problems with the operation of the system.
Insufficient coolant
Do you remember for sure that yesterday the refrigerant level was normal, but today in your VAZ-2114 the engine is heating up and the expansion tank is empty? This means that the tightness of the system was broken. And it’s good if only outside the engine. The worst thing in this case is the burnout of the cylinder head gasket. This malfunction is insidious in that liquid from the channels of the cooling jacket can get inside the cylinders, as well as into the oil channels. Because of this, the engine of the VAZ-2114 often gets hot and the car stalls. The operation of the engine is accompanied by a bluish exhaust with a characteristic odor. Here you will have to remove the cylinder head and flush the lubrication and cooling systems. In the worst case scenario, the engine will need to be overhauled.
More often, coolant leaves the system through the connections between hoses and radiator pipes (cooling and heater), thermostat, expansion tank, and engine. If the engine of a VAZ-2114 heats up and a coolant leak is obvious, check these places first! This problem is solved by tightening the clamps and adding fluid to the cooling system.
Next, inspect the hoses themselves. Often they simply crack over time, and antifreeze or antifreeze, being under pressure, flows out of the system. Such a malfunction can be eliminated by replacing one or another hose.
VAZ 2115 is heating up! How he already got me. | Topic author: Zhanna
Victoria The problem is as old as time. It can be solved with several options, stingy as it is now - I change everything and try everything. The most expensive option. 1. Thermostat - check for complete operation in a saucepan. 2. Radiator temperature sensor, set to a lower temperature. 3. Change the steam-air valve, easier the cover. 4. Replace the engine temperature sensor. 5. Remove air from the system. Everything will have to be done in a complex manner.
The simplest and cheapest is to go for diagnostics, as I understand it, the auto injector, in the settings you are given a lower temperature for starting the fan in the BC, for one thing they will tell you at what temperature the fan starts now.
Liliya drain all the antifreeze and fill it with air in the system according to the instructions, most likely
Margarita antifreeze heating sensor that goes to the fan
Grigory there are sensors with different temperature conditions, but no one here will tell you anything better than a diagnostician with a stand, it’s possible to flash the brain and it will turn on as soon as you set the parameter
Polina Set the sensor to a lower response temperature.
Yulia put the old lid on the tank.
Evgenia, install a six-wheel sensor, it opens at a temperature of 80 or 90... in general it will be normal! ! and look, maybe the thermostat is closed!
Anton Wash the radiator inside and out. Doesn't help, change the thermostat. And for such cases I have an emergency fan switch.
Anna, it seems to me that the sensor on the instrument panel is not working quite correctly and I advise you to go to a service center and check the heating of the car and see how much it shows on their sensors. It can also be: 1 change the lid on the antifreeze barrel. 2 the radiator is clogged and 3 the thermostat does not allow antifreeze to flow into the large circle
Alexander dude, in my opinion, 2 vars or the system is crap, i.e. a large circle or valid. to a good diagnostician Olga
Yana, what is the reason for the traffic jam? more precisely an air lock?? or depressurization!
Pavel Maybe your thermostat is crazy! Did you change it? Alternatively, the pump has closed and the impeller inside has shifted.
Peter, remove the thin return hose from the expander and blow into it, it should be blown out, if it’s clogged, look for the cause in the radiator nipple, it won’t help, the head gasket may be slightly leaking, similar signs.
Oleg, just remove the thermostat and check without it, I think it is closed
Antonina Evgeniy - has my advice been tested in action? I will repeat it below. No joke, this is one of the possible reasons, and quite common.
Greetings! We need to start with the simplest things. Be sure to check the thin tube from the radiator to the expansion tank! It may become clogged with scale or accidentally get pinched when replacing the battery - there will be no normal circulation, the motor will become airy and overheat. Remove the tube from the tank and blow it into the radiator. Check the fitting on the tank - is it clogged? Put it back on, start the engine, warm it up. With the engine hot and the thermostat fully open, turn it up a little - a thin stream of antifreeze should flow through this tube; when the cover is removed, it can be seen. This happens often and is eliminated in 5 minutes without any material costs. And this bypass tube can become clogged with a piece of sealant - if someone has ever put hoses on sealant.
Yaroslav, check the thin tube from the radiator to the expansion tank, when casting the barrel they forget to make a hole there, the air from the radiator has nowhere to go, it is half aired.
10 reasons why your car engine gets hot
Aug 12 2013 - why the engine gets hot in general and in certain situations; — what to do if the engine overheats. . be prepared for drips (it can leak anywhere: radiator, pipes) - this is a fact. . When driving a car for a long time in a low gear, the engine runs at .
