Repair and replacement of the fuel pump VAZ 2106 and 2107 with carburetor and injector: the fuel pump does not pump, how to check for faults + video

VAZ 2106 owners know firsthand how many problems this car can cause. At the same time, a particularly large number of troubles are associated with the fuel pump: it either pumps, or does not pump, or becomes clogged with debris, or refuses to work for unknown reasons. Therefore, it is necessary to learn in advance about all the intricacies of the operation of the gasoline pump and be able to eliminate any malfunctions that may arise.

Operating principle
Video: design and operation diagram of a gasoline pump

Which fuel pump is better for the “six”

Signs of a malfunctioning gasoline pump
What to do if the fuel pump does not pump
The pump does not pump when hot
Why does the pump hum but not pump?
For what reasons can the fuel pump on the “six” fail?

Checking the fuel pump yourself

Fuel pump drive

Drive faults

Gasoline pump repair

Video: dismantling procedure

How to disassemble

Repair stage

Video: fuel pump repair

Installing a fuel pump on a car

Video: how to quickly and correctly replace the pump

Electric fuel pump for VAZ 2106

Video: electric pump for the “classic”

Main causes of overheating

ATTENTION!
A completely simple way to reduce fuel consumption has been found! Don't believe me? An auto mechanic with 15 years of experience also didn’t believe it until he tried it. And now he saves 35,000 rubles a year on gasoline! Read more". Most likely, if there are no characteristic reasons for overheating, the pump has simply outlived its useful life. A banal replacement can completely eliminate the problem. On the other hand, if the cause is not eliminated, the new pump will also heat up like the old one, and the money spent on the purchase can be considered lost

Most likely, if there are no characteristic reasons for overheating, the pump has simply outlived its useful life. Simply replacing it can completely eliminate the problem. On the other hand, if the cause is not eliminated, the new pump will also heat up like the old one, and the money spent on the purchase can be considered lost.

However, this rarely happens. More often than not, problems are actually related to the pump.

Here are the main causes of overheating.

Dirt. A device used for a long time will overheat faster. It is necessary to check all pump elements, including the filter mesh. Clean or replace consumables if necessary.
External damage, such as a crack or something similar. The cause may also be wear of the device’s gears or rollers protected by hydraulic superchargers.
Driving with Chek-Engin. Some motorists ignore the warnings that the car sends. They continue to drive, although the system notifies that there are problems, including those related to the fuel pump.
Driving with a red light. It lights up on the instrument panel if the volume of fuel liquid in the tank is critically small. It is especially dangerous to travel with a half-empty tank in hot weather. The fuel pump will soon overheat.
Refueling at questionable gas stations. Pumping low-quality fuel also negatively affects the operation of the pump. If the fuel contains a large amount of sulfur, the commutator will gradually become covered with a dark coating, contact with the brushes will deteriorate, and sparking will begin inside the device, which will lead to overheating.
The main filter is clogged. This is a separate part installed in the section of the fuel line. It has the ability to retain small particles of debris that get into gasoline.
Violations in the voltage circuit, short circuits. This is also a clear reason for overheating of a modern type electric pump. With such problems, the pump begins to turn on in starting mode, and as a result overheats.

Signs of an overheating fuel pump are:

decreased engine performance;
its unstable operation in all modes.

However, an accurate diagnosis is always made after a thorough check. If the pump is not placed inside the tank, but is located under the bottom of the car, diagnosing overheating is easier than ever. You need to remove the plastic protection of the device and drive it like this for several days. When the engine suddenly stops or performance decreases, get out of the car and put your hand on the pump. An overly hot case is evidence of overheating.

Why doesn't the fuel pump deliver gasoline?

One of the most important elements of the fuel injection system of a gasoline engine is the electric fuel pump, which is located in the fuel tank of the car. The fuel pump pumps fuel into the system from the gas tank. creating a certain pressure.

Auto repair experts identify the following common fuel system problems that are related to the fuel pump:

The fuel pump pumps poorly and does not create the required pressure;
the fuel pump does not pump when the ignition is turned on;

Considering that the fuel pump is an electromechanical device, the most common fuel pump malfunctions are related to both the mechanical and electrical parts. Next, we will look at what signs indicate a breakdown of the fuel pump and why the fuel pump stops pumping partially or completely.

Repair

Repair of a mechanical fuel pump Repair
of a mechanical fuel pump consists of installing a new repair kit (diaphragm and valves) and, if necessary, a worn pusher with a spring. A deeper repair of this device is impractical, since the costs of purchasing and repairing worn parts are close to the cost of a new product. If the pump housing is deformed or damaged, it must be completely replaced.

Electric fuel pump repair

The electric fuel pump is equipped with a non-separable housing, and if it breaks down, the product is replaced with a new one. Without special skills, equipment and spare parts, opening and repairing it is impossible. But some workshops undertake similar work, the price of which is lower than buying a new pump. The main failures of the device are as follows:

Damage to brushes and motor commutator. Repair involves replacing them with new ones.
Breakage of the plastic coupling connecting the rotor and the motor armature shaft. The clutch is replaced with a new one.
Anchor failure. The repair involves rewinding this part.

The described actions allow us to eliminate the gas pump malfunction on all models of the VAZ: 2101, 2102, 2103, 2104, 2105, 2106, 2107, 2108, 2109, 21099, 2110, 2111, 2112, 2113, 2114, Niva, Priora, Kalina, Grant, Vesta and most foreign cars.

How to check the performance of the fuel pump without removing it?

First of all, you need to carefully inspect the fuel pump. Particular attention should be paid to the fit of the cover 4 to the body 3. The skew of the cover, its weak tightening, and an incorrectly installed nylon mesh filter 2, which also serves as a sealing gasket, contribute to the leakage of gasoline in the connector of the cover and the body or in the mating of the cover and the bolt 5 of its fastening.

Fuel may also leak through the outer spacer 1. This occurs when the working diaphragms 8 are damaged. If the screws 7 securing the housing to the bottom cover are loosened, air may leak into the vacuum cavity, and therefore the fuel pump will work intermittently, supplying fuel to the mixture with air.

If you find traces of oil leakage, check first of all that the fuel pump is securely attached to the cylinder block, and then determine the condition of the sealing heat-insulating gaskets. The fact is that oil often leaks in these places when the seal is broken.

Without removing the fuel pump, you can check its functionality. To do this, simply disconnect the fuel line coming from the carburetor and, using the manual pumping lever, check the strength of the fuel supply. Remember that manual pumping is impossible if pusher 1 (Fig. below) is at the top of eccentric 2, and the diaphragm rod is correspondingly in its lowest position.

Fuel pump pusher position

In this case, you need to use the starting handle to turn the engine crankshaft just one revolution. This will allow the eccentric and the rod to take a position in which the manual fuel pumping mechanism will be operational.

A working fuel pump delivers gasoline in a full pulsating stream without noticeable air. To be more confident, you can check the operation of the fuel pump using a mechanical drive by turning the engine crankshaft with the starter. At the same time, you should not be embarrassed by the fact that a stream of gasoline will not appear from the first revolutions.

If you suspect a malfunction of the internal elements of the fuel pump, it is, of course, necessary to remove it, disassemble it and eliminate the defects.

Fuel pump repair - is it advisable to carry out?

Many motorists are trying to save on repairs; to do this, they buy a kit for restoring the VAZ-2106 fuel pump. Its price is 3-4 times lower than that of an assembled pump. But is the game worth the candle? According to reviews from the same motorists, the service life of elements from such kits is several weeks. After this, the unit ceases to perform its main function - pumping fuel.

The cost of a new pump assembly is 450-800 rubles. It is preferable to use Pekar, but its price is very high. But the service life and quality of the elements are excellent. As practice shows, repairing a fuel pump by replacing its components gives a positive effect for a short time. You can try to repair only if only the spring or diaphragm is faulty. There is no need to change valves. Therefore, it is better to purchase a new assembly and install it on the car.

Design and principle of operation of a fuel pump

The basic design of the VAZ 2106 fuel pump can be seen below.

According to its principle of operation, the “six” gasoline pump is focused on creating excess pressure, which, regardless of the stage of engine operation, must constantly maintain the required level of gasoline in the float-type fuel chamber. The diaphragm is designed and developed such that fuel flow is stopped or reduced when the fuel line reaches a pressure limit.

The standard fuel pump is located on the left on a special boss of the engine block and is secured with studs through a thermal spacer and an adjusting gasket. This spacer also serves as a guide element for the VAZ 2106 fuel pump pusher, driven by an eccentric through the fuel pump drive, powered by the gas distribution mechanism in use. The length of the new fuel pump rod is 82.5 mm, the permissible value for operation is 81.8 mm; if this parameter is reduced, the product must be adjusted by selecting installation spacers or replaced with a new spare part.

For manual supply of gasoline using the pumping method, the product has a special lever, which is recommended to be used after a long period of use of the vehicle to fill the fuel line with fuel. It is capable of creating a pressure of 20-30 kPa with an injection rate of at least 60 l/h at a frequency of 2000 frictions (pumping) per minute.

Our online resource describes the design of the VAZ 2106 fuel pump under the nomenclature number 2101-1106010, produced at DAAZ in Dimitrovgrad. As an alternative, you can use a Pekar gasoline pump manufactured at the Saratov Fuel Equipment Plant. The design and development of the product was carried out by Pekar JSC from St. Petersburg.

By the way, many car enthusiasts praise the so-called. “VAZ 2106 plunger fuel pump”, which improves vehicle starting and operates with a high degree of reliability. A product of this type is nothing more than a Pekar gasoline pump, the top cover of which is made in a high style and resembles 2 cylinders connected to each other, on the end parts of which arrows in the direction of gasoline flow are stamped. The valves inside the product are very similar to plunger pairs, and with the light hand of car enthusiasts they began to be called “six” plunger fuel pumps.

Gasoline pump repair

To repair the device yourself, you will need to prepare the following tools in advance:

10 and 13 mm wrenches;
flat and Phillips screwdrivers;
two rulers;
container for draining remaining fuel.

How to remove a pump from a car

Dismantling the fuel pump from a VAZ 2106 must be carried out in strict accordance with the regulations:

Open the car hood.
Use a screwdriver to loosen the clamp connection of the hose for supplying gasoline to the pump, and remove the hose.
Remove the pipe from the surface of the pump, also first loosening the clamp.
Immediately close any drain holes that appear with plugs or clean bolts with a diameter of 8 mm to prevent fuel loss.
Using a 13 mm wrench, unscrew the two nuts securing the pump from the cylinder block.
Remove the pump, being careful not to damage the gaskets supplied with it.
Place the fuel pump on a level and clean place.

Video: dismantling procedure

How to disassemble

Disassembly of the VAZ 2106 fuel pump is carried out according to the following scheme:

Wipe the pump housing from dirt and gasoline. Take a 10 mm wrench and unscrew the pump cover fixing bolt, then remove the cover itself.

Carefully, so as not to damage, remove the mesh (filter element) from the pump cavity.

Carefully inspect the inlet valve, press on it with a thin screwdriver. If the valve has come out of its seat, correct its location with the same screwdriver. Wash the filter in acetone and blow thoroughly with a can of compressed air. Take a Phillips screwdriver and remove the six screws that connect the two halves of the pump housing. Disconnect the upper part of the pump from the lower part.

Check the intake valve in the same way as for the intake. Wash the insides of the upper part with gasoline and blow with compressed air. Rotate the diaphragm assembly 90 degrees. Pull the diaphragm out of the bottom of the body and remove the spring from the steel rod. In a clear sequence, first remove the upper steel cup, then the two diaphragms in turn, then the diaphragm gaskets, the lower cup and the washer.

Repair stage

A repair kit for a DAAZ or Pekar gasoline pump can be purchased at any auto store. The components are inexpensive, so there is no point in contacting a car service to replace them. In addition, the design of the pump on the VAZ 2106 is quite simple, which allows the driver to independently replace all failed parts.

The main goal of repairing a fuel pump is to replace all failed elements and gaskets

After disassembling and washing the fuel pump, you need to reassemble it in the reverse order, replacing all worn parts. It is mandatory to replace sealing rings and gaskets, even if they are still in working order.

Maximum caution must be observed when working with diaphragms - they can tear with the slightest force

Video: fuel pump repair

Installing a fuel pump on a car

Before installing the repaired pump, you must carefully inspect the very place where the fuel pump is fixed to the cylinder block. All accumulations of carbon deposits and dirt must be removed with solvent 642 and wiped dry with a cloth. The pump must be installed exclusively on a clean surface of the block.

Next, perform installation work in order:

Place new gaskets on the fixing pins. On the VAZ 2106, three gasket elements are installed from the factory between the fuel pump and the cylinder block: adjusting, heat-insulating and sealing. It is in this order that they need to be put on the stilettos.
Next, the fuel pump itself is mounted on them, which is screwed with two nuts.
It is recommended to tighten the nuts one at a time to avoid creating increased pressure on the flange.
After fixing the pump, connect two pipes to it for supply and return.
It is recommended to immediately check the quality of the repair and the reliability of all connections - start the engine and observe how the gasoline pump behaves in operation.

Checking the fuel pump yourself

Before diagnosing the fuel pump, you need to make sure that all other elements of the fuel system are operating normally. If the carburetor mechanism, gasoline supply hoses and filters are in good condition, then you can begin to check the operation of the pump itself.

To do this, you only need to prepare two tools:

10 mm wrench;
a screwdriver with a thin flat blade.

Checking the fuel pump on a VAZ 2106 occurs according to the following algorithm:

Open the hood of the car and make sure the engine is cool.

If there are no sensations of suction attempts and the characteristic sounds of the pump are not heard, the device can be considered faulty.

Functions and structure of the VAZ 2107 fuel pump (carburetor)

The fuel pump is a key component of the engine power supply system. The function of the pump is to supply gasoline from the fuel tank to the carburetor float chamber. The fuel pump on carburetor VAZ models is installed on the side of the cylinder block, inside the engine compartment.

The specific design of the pump makes the fuel pump one of the weak points of the power system. Contamination and poor quality gasoline, constant loads leading to natural wear of parts often cause unit failure. As a result, the gasoline supply stops and the engine stops working.

The VAZ 2107 fuel pump consists of the following parts:

pusher;
spring;
balance;
lid;
cover screw;
screw;
mesh filter;
membranes (working and safety);
lower and upper plates;
stock;
valves (inlet and outlet);
manual pumping lever.

The VAZ 2107 fuel pump works like this:

The reciprocating movements of the pusher are ensured by the joint work of the drive cam and the return spring.
working membranes move, creating alternately pressure and vacuum in the working chamber;
when the pressure decreases, the exhaust valve closes, gasoline begins to flow from the gas line through the opening inlet valve;
as the pressure increases, the inlet valve closes, and gasoline is pumped through the outlet valve into the hose leading to the carburetor.

Checking the general condition of the fuel pump

First of all, let’s check whether the supply system of your VAZ 2109 is working at all. To do this, you need to take the following steps:

Remove the pump fuel hose from the source or discharge fitting;
Manually press the fuel pump lever several times;
If the pump is operational, a strong stream of fuel will immediately flow through the fitting;
If there is no jet or it is very weak, it will be necessary to carry out other checks.

Intake Valve Check

Disconnect the hose from the suction fitting so that both hoses are eventually removed, each from its own fitting.
Simply plug the suction fitting with your finger, then pull the lever several times to manually pump fuel. If everything works fine, your finger will begin to be sucked into the fitting. This effect indicates that the pump is working properly. Therefore, we look for the problem in the tank or lines.
If there is no suction, you will have to disassemble the device to replace the inlet valve. Its tightness is most likely broken.

The filter is clogged or damaged

To fix the situation, you need:

Remove the cover from the fuel pump, remove the filter, clean and rinse it with clean fuel. Then be sure to blow out with compressed air;
Check the condition of the filter. If it is deformed, no repair will help. You will have to change the filter device;
If you have a Pekar pump or a similar one, the filter can be removed by unscrewing the suction fitting from the cover. That is, it is not necessary to remove the cover at all.

Replacement stages.

1. First of all, it is necessary to loosen the fastening of the fuel mixture supply and discharge hoses. To do this, use a Phillips screwdriver to unscrew the holders located on the clamps.

2. The next step is to remove the fuel conductors from the fitting. You should first prepare the bolts that will act as plugs. Of course, you don’t have to use bolts, but in this case most of the gasoline will spill out.

3. Next, unscrew the nuts that secure the pump. To do this, you will need a thirteen socket wrench.

4. After the fastening nuts have been loosened, it is necessary to remove the element from the racks and at the same time dismantle the sealing element.

5. The next step is to dismantle the heat insulation element along with the drive mechanism.

6. Now, let’s begin installing the new original VAZ 2106 fuel pump. A working pump is installed in the complete opposite order. To increase the service life of a new fuel system element, it is worth periodically checking the adjustment of the sealing gasket. Correct shim adjustment is determined as follows.

Once the new pump is in position, the pump wire should protrude approximately one millimeter (plus/minus 0.2 mm).

The optimal thickness of the gasket between the cylinder block and the heat insulation element is 0.3 millimeters (an error of no more than 0.03 mm is also allowed. The seal located between the heat insulation attachment and the pump itself is selected individually. Most often, this element is made by the hands of a car enthusiast.

As it turned out, replacing an element of one of the most important vehicle systems turned out to be quite affordable

The fuel pump is an important part of the engine fuel supply system

Given the importance of this component of the vehicle system, it is worth paying due attention to its maintenance

In most cases, the cause of fuel compressor failure is the use of a low quality fuel mixture. The presence of abrasive particles in gasoline leads to premature wear of the pump and other elements of the fuel system. To increase the service life of the pump and other elements of the fuel system, it is worth regularly checking the condition of the fuel filter and replacing it in a timely manner.

The VAZ 2106 fuel pump is very picky about the quality of gasoline. Of course, the car will operate on low-quality fuel, but in order to avoid unexpected costs for car repairs and maintenance, we recommend filling up with gasoline at trusted gas stations.

Disassembling and replacing the fuel pump

So, now we’ll tell you specifically about how to properly disassemble, replace damaged elements of the fuel pump, or completely replace this device with a new one.

Hatch

In any case, we recommend purchasing a repair kit. It doesn't cost much. But there is no need to rush into buying a fuel pump. Who knows, maybe a simple repair will bring the pump back to life.
Remove the air filter along with its housing.
Disconnect the fuel supply and return hoses from the fuel pump fittings.
Unscrew the mounting nuts that hold the pump itself.
Carefully remove the pump, being careful not to damage the gaskets.
Inspect the pump parts for cracks or damage. Check the fuel pump valves for leaks and perform all the operations we described above.
Assess the current condition of the suction and discharge fittings. When dismantling, they must remain motionless in their seats. They break extremely rarely, but nothing should be ruled out.
Check the fuel pump diaphragm. The presence of ruptures and peelings indicates that it must be replaced.
Look at the current filter. Damage and excessive contamination are clear signs of wear and warrant replacement.
Treat the filter components with clean gasoline and blow with compressed air using a compressor.
If you find damaged elements, replace them with new ones using a repair kit.
Replace the pump gaskets if necessary.
When installing new gaskets, be sure to first treat their surface with Litol 24.
If the pump housing itself is damaged or there are other serious problems, you will have to completely replace the fuel pump. Repairs won't help him.
Next, when partial repairs are completed or you decide to take a completely new pump, it’s time for reassembly.
Be sure to adjust the feed using shims of the required thickness so that the pusher output has an optimal indicator. We talked about this above.
If the pushrod protrudes too much, it will cause the fuel pressure to be too high, causing your carburetor check valve to break.
If the distance is less than required, as the load increases and the vehicle speed increases, the engine will not be able to receive enough fuel.
Reassemble by following the reverse sequence of dismantling the fuel pump.
Make sure the arrow on the body points towards the carburetor.
When installing the diaphragm pump assembly, the holes in the gasket are located away from the muffler pipe.

Gasoline pump repair

To repair the device yourself, you will need to prepare the following tools in advance:

10 and 13 mm wrenches;
flat and Phillips screwdrivers;
two rulers;
container for draining remaining fuel.

How to remove a pump from a car

Dismantling the fuel pump from a VAZ 2106 must be carried out in strict accordance with the regulations:

Open the car hood.
Use a screwdriver to loosen the clamp connection of the hose for supplying gasoline to the pump, and remove the hose.
Remove the pipe from the surface of the pump, also first loosening the clamp.

Video: dismantling procedure

How to disassemble

Disassembly of the VAZ 2106 fuel pump is carried out according to the following scheme:

Wipe the pump housing from dirt and gasoline.
Take a 10 mm wrench and unscrew the pump cover fixing bolt, then remove the cover itself.

Repair stage

Maximum caution must be observed when working with diaphragms - they can tear with the slightest force

Video: fuel pump repair

Installing a fuel pump on a car

Next, perform installation work in order:

Place new gaskets on the fixing pins. On the VAZ 2106, three gasket elements are installed from the factory between the fuel pump and the cylinder block: adjusting, heat-insulating and sealing. It is in this order that they need to be put on the stilettos.
Next, the fuel pump itself is mounted on them, which is screwed with two nuts.

Other causes of fuel pump malfunctions

Quite often, unprofessional installation of additional electrical equipment or security anti-theft systems leads to the fact that the power to the fuel pump is lost due to mixed up contacts or other connection errors.

Also, one should not exclude the possibility that a malfunction occurred in the car alarm or security system, after which the power supply to the fuel pump is blocked. In other words, the alarm blocks the engine from starting.

Finally, let’s add that the gas pump in the gas tank is immersed in gasoline, in which it is actively cooled. The habit of driving with an empty tank can quickly damage the electric motor of the fuel pump, as it burns out.

Disassembly and repair of the fuel pump

Before disassembling, it is necessary to thoroughly rinse the fuel pump, for which you can use the gasoline in its cavity. It is best to start disassembly with the top cover 4, screwed with a bolt 5 with an 8 mm socket head. Under the lid there is a nylon mesh filter.

Let us remind you that the deformed cover and the broken filter must be replaced with new ones. Under the strainer in the fuel pump housing you will see a pressed and rolled suction valve 6. There are cases when, due to valve failure, you have to replace the entire fuel pump housing since the valves are not supplied separately as spare parts, and replacing them at home is quite difficult .

To remove the fuel pump housing, you need to unscrew six screws 7 with a screwdriver. Before separating the housing from the bottom cover, try to replace their relative positions. This will come in handy during assembly.

The discharge valve is pressed and rolled on the inside of the removed housing. Wash the housing thoroughly in clean unleaded gasoline.

Remember that even the smallest grains of sand trapped between the valve and the seat disrupt the tightness of the valves, which leads to failure of the fuel pump.

Using a thin screwdriver or a match, you can check the mobility of the valves and the tightness of their fit to the seat under the action of the springs. If you can check the operation of the suction valve again on the assembled fuel pump, then the operation of the discharge valve can only be checked now, with the pump disassembled. When blowing air into the discharge pipe, monitor the behavior of the valve, which should sit in the seat and not allow air to pass through.

What is the device

The gasoline pump is a cylindrical barrel measuring 20x15 cm, located under the hood of the car in the carburetor area. It has two tubes, one of them pumps gasoline, and the other supplies it to the carburetor. It also has a lever that is designed for manual pumping of fuel if the mechanical system is not functioning.

The design of the device includes:

The chamber into which fuel flows from the tank.
Fuel inlet and outlet valves.
Diaphragm.
The ghost lever operates the pumping mechanism.
Return spring.
Fist.
Camshaft
Sealing gasket.

The operating principle will tell you what each part does.

Operating principle

It works quite simply, just like regular water pumps. In order for the device to begin to function, a mechanical action is applied to it, carried out by the diaphragm. It moves up and down due to the effects of vacuum and pressure. During the downward stroke, a vacuum is created and fuel is sucked into the chamber. When the diaphragm moves upward, it creates pressure and the suction valve closes, and the discharge valve opens, through which fuel flows into the carburetor. The return spring performs the function of causing the movement of the diaphragm.

What are the causes of malfunctions?

The main problem that causes malfunction of the fuel pump of a VAZ-2107 car lies in the sealing gasket. It creates a sealed chamber where the phenomenon of rarefaction and pressure occurs. When this gasket wears out, the seal is broken and not only gasoline, but also air is sucked into the chamber. When the diaphragm moves back, fuel leaks out through a loose seal. Another reason for the pump not to function is clogging of the inlet valve channels. But, this problem was solved by installing a special filter element in front of the gas pump, which extends the service life of the fuel injection device much longer. Rupture of the internal membrane also poses a threat to the performance of the element. If such a problem occurs, it is very difficult to start the engine even when pumping fuel manually.

How to determine the malfunction?

For a VAZ-2107 car, it is easy to find out if the fuel pump is not working. To do this, you need to disconnect the tube from which gasoline enters the carburetor. Next, manual pumping is carried out and if liquid leakage is observed, then the cause of the malfunction is not in the fuel pump. If fuel does not come out of the tube, then the device is faulty, or rather, the problem most likely lies in the inlet valve. You can check this as follows:

Remove the intake valve tube.
Close the inlet port with your finger.
Press the pump lever.

If you feel a vacuum on your finger, then the device is working properly and there is no point in disassembling it.

Fuel pump repair

The device for pumping fuel into the carburetor is subject to repair, unless, of course, the service life of the device is very long. Repair includes disassembling the device, cleaning and replacing worn parts. So, repairs are best carried out with the device removed from its seat, but there are also simple breakdowns that can be repaired without removal. Repairs are carried out in the following sequence:

The main semicircular cover, which is secured with a bolt, is removed.
After removing the cover, we carry out a visual inspection. The filter is removed and needs to be washed and blown out for cleaning.
Further analysis of the device is underway. The six bolts are unscrewed using a screwdriver and the device is separated into two parts.
The intake and exhaust valves are cleaned. You can wash it in gasoline or solvent and spray it with a stream of dense air.
To remove the diaphragm, you need to rotate it 90 degrees and carefully remove it.
Next, we repair the diaphragm, unscrew it and remove all the components.
Only flexible membranes are damaged, so it is these that need to be replaced.
When the replacement is made, it is important to assemble the diaphragm in the same sequence as originally.
The device itself is assembled in the reverse order of removal.
When installing the filter, it is necessary to ensure that the hole in it is located above the valve.
By connecting the two parts, a gasket is installed, which can be additionally lubricated with sealant.

Fuel pump repair - is it advisable to carry out?

Signs of fuel pump defects

Many car enthusiasts know that the fuel pump is a component of the “six” fuel system that repeatedly malfunctions or, in simple words, it malfunctions. Reasons: low-quality gasoline, clogged and lately replaced fuel filter, high loads on product parts, exposure to active ingredients due to oil and antifreeze leaks, low-quality rubber components, etc.

The main malfunctions of the fuel pump are a violation of the sealed conditions of the fuel pump, gasoline leakage and “the VAZ 2106 fuel pump does not pump,” i.e. failure of the product membrane. In this case, repairs “in the field” are possible, when drivers have, for example, to install high-density cellophane instead of the standard membrane, which allows them to get to their destination. A more civilized repair of the fuel pump for the “six” is to purchase a repair kit for the fuel pump and replace worn parts.

Lada 2106 › Logbook › Air lock or why the fuel pump doesn’t pump. VAZ 2106

Mr-1Marat last online more than 1 month ago

Marat I drive a Lada 2106 Neftekamsk, Russia

Maybe I'm exaggerating, but it seems to me that every classic encountered such a problem. In the heat, when the car was moving (in my case it was a VAZ 2106), the car began to twitch or completely stall in the most inconvenient places (crossroads, on the highway, etc.). If you open the hood and look at the fuel filter at this time, you could notice that it is empty or there is very little gasoline there; when you try to manually pump gasoline from the fuel pump, you can understand that the fuel pump does not pump gasoline. Everyone solves this problem in their own way, I let the engines cool by 10-15 degrees, then moistened a rag, threw it on the gas pump, successfully started the engine and drove home. (I want to make a reservation right away, I always had a new fuel pump repair kit in the car, I have a DAAZ fuel pump. Pekar g * but there were two of them, the same problems with them.) In general, I removed the fuel pump, took it home, disassembled it, to my To my surprise, everything was fine with it, the diaphragms were not torn, the valves were normal, but since I had a repair kit, I replaced everything with a new one and installed it on the car. The problem has not gone away. Air jams still formed. Then I went to an auto store, bought a fuel pump pusher, it was 8.25 cm long, took off the old one, measured it, its length was 8.2, the difference in principle is not big, I installed a new pusher, drove it, and still the problem did not disappear. I no longer knew what the reason could be, I also went to the auto store, bought a rod with a pusher, removing the old rod with a pusher, I noticed that the rod was cracked, + in addition to all this, there is a 1mm thick gasket between the block and the rod, not order! There should be a gasket with a thickness of 0.27-0.3 mm... Next, installing a new rod + a new pusher that came with the rod, I adjusted the protrusion of the pusher to 1.1 mm (0.8-1.3 seems to be allowed). I installed a new fuel pump (because I had ruined the old one) and that was it, my problems disappeared. I still think that the problem was in the rod and an incorrectly installed gasket, but what’s most interesting is that we drove like this for almost 3 years, with an incorrectly installed gasket. But at the same time, every summer I had to buy a new fuel pump, because this only solved the problem of an air lock...

Fuel pump repair

To repair a VAZ 2106/07 fuel pump you will need:

open-end wrench 13;
flat screwdriver;
two regular school rulers;
a clean container for draining gasoline.

This is interesting: How to replace the hydraulic mounts of a Ford Focus 2 engine with your own hands?

Dismantling the pump is carried out as follows.

The hood opens.
Use a flat-head screwdriver to loosen the clamp of the fuel supply hose on the pump body.
The fuel supply hose is removed.
Remove the fuel supply hose from the fuel pump
The fuel line is disconnected from the pump housing.
Plugs are placed in the resulting holes (clean M8 bolts can be used).
Using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the two nuts securing the pump to the cylinder block.
The pump is carefully removed and placed on a clean, level place. It is advisable not to damage the gaskets.

Replacing the rod

The rod is the metal rod at the base of the fuel pump. It wears out during use. This can only be noticed at high speeds - in urban conditions, it is usually impossible to detect rod wear. However, on the highway the car cannot reach speeds above 90–100 km/h.

Replacing the rod involves replacing two gaskets. The new rod should protrude beyond the boundaries of the spacer by 0.8–1.3 mm (optimally 1 mm). This can be achieved by selecting pads of different sizes. If the rod overhang is higher than recommended, there will be a risk of damage to the diaphragm; if lower, the engine will lose power.

When replacing the rod, it is necessary to correctly adjust the length of its protrusion

Cleaning the fuel pump

Cleaning the fuel pump means, first of all, cleaning the filter mesh, which stops the flow of fuel. The cause of contamination is usually low-quality gasoline - all the dirt and impurities remain on the mesh.

The mesh is located in the lower part of the fuel pump housing and can be easily dismantled after releasing the latches. It is recommended to first wash it with gasoline and then blow it with air under pressure. After this, the mesh is installed back.

The cause of grid contamination is often low-quality gasoline.

Using the repair kit

A repair kit for DAAZ or Pekar fuel pumps can be purchased at any auto store. It allows you to repair the fuel pump without going to a car service center. Usually the repair kit contains all the parts that need to be replaced.

The design of the VAZ 2106/07 fuel pump is quite simple, so disassembling it is not very difficult. After removing the filter, the mesh and diaphragm of the pump are inspected. If any mechanical damage is detected, the elements are replaced with new ones.

The fuel pump repair kit includes a diaphragm spring, the diaphragm itself and plugs

Fuel pump drive

The fuel pump drive for the “six” is a rod. Due to its translational movement of the pusher, gasoline is sucked in.

This movement is provided by the actuator cam and diaphragm return spring. When the membrane moves, pressure is created in the system. Immediately after the diaphragm stops, the exhaust valve closes, so the fuel flows into the opening inlet valve. Through it, with a new forward movement of the rod and membranes, the fuel is transferred to the carburetor.

The operation of the fuel pump is controlled by a pusher (2), which moves under the action of an eccentric located on the engine camshaft

On the VAZ 2106, to facilitate work with the fuel system, a lever is installed to increase the pressure in the system. With its help, the driver can artificially create pressure up to 30 kPa.

Drive faults

One of the most common causes of fuel pump failure is damage to the rod. Diagnosing this malfunction is very simple: its main symptom is the inability to accelerate the car even on a flat, straight road.

The rod is the steel rod at the base of the pump. During long-term use, it wears out, which leads to a malfunction in the drive part. As a rule, if the rod is worn out or bent, it is impossible to accelerate the car to a speed above 90 km/h.

The fuel pump rod is made of wear-resistant steel alloys, but during prolonged use it wears out and causes the part to malfunction

Replacing the rod mechanism involves simultaneously replacing two gaskets. When inserting a new rod into the pump body, you need to ensure that it protrudes beyond the spacer by a distance of no less than 0.8 mm and no more than 1.3 mm. That is, the optimal protrusion option is 1 mm.

In order to ensure this overhang, you will need to select gaskets of the required thickness. If the rod overhang is less than 0.8 mm, the engine will begin to experience difficulties when accelerating, and if it exceeds 1.3 mm, the diaphragms may break.

Read about the malfunctions of the VAZ-2106 GBZ: https://bumper.guru/klassicheskie-modeli-vaz/grm/poryadok-zatyazhki-golovki-bloka-cilindrov-vaz-2106.html

COMPONENTS OF THE FUEL SYSTEM

The VAZ 2114 fuel system consists of the following main elements:

Gas tank;
Fuel pump;
Gasoline filtration devices;
Pipeline system;
Fuel rail;
Injectors;
Waste disposal unit.

Fuel system diagram Let's analyze each component separately.

GAS TANK

The VAZ 2114 gas tank is a container made of two equal metal parts. A neck is removed from the tank into which gasoline is poured. The neck is connected to the tank via a rubber pipe and clamps.

FUEL PUMP

The fuel pump is located directly in the tank. It has a fuel level sensor, which transmits information about the current amount of gasoline to the ECU. The gasoline pump is connected to a line through which gasoline is transported to the fuel rail. The fuel pump itself consists of several parts - coarse filters, wiring and an electric motor, which pumps fuel. As evidenced by reviews from owners of fourteenth cars, fuel pumps from the German company BOSCH have proven themselves to be the best.

FILTRATION DEVICE

The VAZ 2114 fuel injection system very much depends on the quality of the filter devices used. A bad filter will significantly reduce both the efficiency and the longevity of the entire system.

On the fourteenth, non-separable filters with a working element made of paper are installed. Such filters clog quite quickly, and they need to be changed at least once every 10-15 thousand kilometers.

FUEL RAIL

The fuel rail is located on the intake manifold housing. Its design consists of two parts, separated by a spring-loaded diaphragm. The first is the fuel one, in which the required level of gasoline pressure is set, the second is the air one, air is pumped into it, due to which the diaphragm compresses the fuel chamber and changes the pressure level in it.

Ramp

PIPING AND HOSES SYSTEM

To circulate gasoline from the gas tank to the injectors, the fourteenth uses steel fuel lines located on the bottom of the car. The VAZ 2114 fuel supply system also provides for a return pipeline through which excess gasoline from the injectors is returned back to the gas tank.

VAZ 2114 owners are advised to carefully monitor the condition of the fuel line in order to avoid gasoline leaks. Pipes should be checked regularly for deformation and corrosion.

INJECTORS

Injectors are valves actuated by electromagnetic control. They have a sprayer, with the help of which fuel under pressure is supplied directly to the combustion chambers.

Injectors are one of the most problematic parts of the fuel supply system of the fourteenth (as well as VAZ 2115 and VAZ 2113), the service life of which directly depends on the quality of the gasoline used. If the fine filter does not fully perform its functions, the injectors will become clogged, and from time to time you will need to clean them at a service station (doing this at home is very problematic).

A critical failure of the injectors is a short circuit or break in the winding, after which it is necessary to replace the failed part.

WASTE DISPOSAL UNIT

The EURO-3 environmental safety standard, to which the VAZ 2114 complies, provides for the presence of a gasoline vapor recovery chamber, for which the fourteenth uses an adsorber with activated carbon. The adsorber is connected to a throttle assembly, from which all resulting vapors are sucked out.

Adsorber

What types of fuel pumps are there?

Cars with gasoline engines, depending on the make, model and modification, can be equipped with gasoline pumps of different designs. But they all fall into two main categories: mechanical and electrical. Most carburetor engines are equipped with mechanical fuel delivery devices. If we take the VAZ 2109 (carburetor), then from the factory it was equipped with a diaphragm pump manufactured by DAAZ. The main difference of this device is its simplicity of design, which is easy to understand even for a beginner. In the carburetor "nine" the fuel pump is located in the engine compartment of the car. It is easy to recognize by its characteristic hemispherical cap and fuel line hoses.

VAZ 2114 injection engines are equipped with electric fuel pumps. Their design is also based on a membrane, but unlike “mechanics”, the fuel supply devices in cars with automatic fuel injection are not under the hood, but directly in the tank.

Additional Information

The above instructions give a complete idea of what replacing a fuel pump is. Note that the need to replace the fuel pump occurs infrequently - everything is determined by the quality of the fuel used. Those who, in pursuit of penny savings, refuel at random gas stations using low-octane gasoline are doomed to repeat this procedure with a certain regularity.

It is much easier (and, ultimately, cheaper) to “feed” the car with high-quality gasoline that does not contain foreign impurities and other undesirable components - debris, rust, etc.

Timely replacement of coarse and fine filters also helps protect the fuel pump from premature failure.

Start with the relay and fuse

Considering that the fuel supply module is located in the car tank, and it is not so easy to get to it, it is better to start diagnostics with the relay and fuse:

Unscrew the screws securing the cover of the mounting block located to the left of the steering column.
Underneath it, find fuse F3 (15 A) and relay R2. These are the elements that we need to check.
As for the fuse, it needs to be “ringed” with a tester. If unusable, replace it.

Checking the relay in a garage is quite difficult. But you can take a similar one (from an adjacent socket), a known good relay, and install it instead of the one being diagnosed. Now turn on the ignition. Is the fuel pump pumping? The reason has been found! Well, if nothing has changed, move on.

Repair of fuel pump VAZ 2107

Repairing the VAZ 2107 fuel pump instead of replacing it is a much more rational decision from a financial point of view. To do this, you need to remove the unit. The procedure for removing the fuel pump is described in the previous section “Replacing the VAZ 2107 fuel pump”.

After the fuel pump is removed, you can begin to disassemble it and check the parts for damage or wear.

It's worth starting with gaskets. The thickness of the gasket between the fuel pump and the thermal insulating plastic spacer must be more than 0.3 millimeters. The gasket between the spacer and the cylinder block must be thicker than 0.8 millimeters.

The most common failure of a fuel pump is a rupture of the working diaphragm. To replace it, you need to unscrew the cover bolt and pull out the diaphragm assembly (rod with attached diaphragms). To replace them, simply unscrew the nut on the rod. You should also check the serviceability of the return spring and replace it if necessary.

When the cover is removed, the strainer becomes accessible and should be cleaned of dirt and inspected for damage before reinstalling.

The fuel pump valve channels should be cleaned and checked to see if they are loose in their seats. If play is noticeable, the valve should be replaced. If the cause of the play is a broken seat, the malfunction cannot be eliminated. You only need to replace the fuel pump.

In some cases, the tightness of the working chamber of the fuel pump is broken due to deformation of the cover. In this case, you can try to select and install a whole cover from an old fuel pump.

The fuel systems of classic VAZ models, such as 2106 and 2107, differ in the type of supply of the combustible mixture to the cylinders. For some, the carburetor is responsible for this, for others, the injector. However, the coordinated operation of the power unit for both depends not on the design of the system, but on the serviceability of its elements, and primarily the fuel pump. Every car enthusiast should, if necessary, be able to repair and replace this element with his own hands.

Electric fuel pump for VAZ 2106

Due to the simplicity of the “six” design, a more productive electric gasoline pump can be installed on it. However, car enthusiasts themselves do not recommend installing a modern unit unless there is a good reason:

If an ordinary person does a good job, then why? And the additional load on the generator is not really needed. IMHO