The most common gearbox problems on the Lada Granta car

Riding style

Speaking about why the car jerks when starting from a stop, we need to start with the obvious. The very first and most obvious reason is a harsh clutch. If you start, add gas and suddenly release the clutch pedal, the car will definitely jerk. Therefore, first of all, you need to try to change your driving style. At a minimum, when starting off, you need to release the clutch pedal very slowly and add a little more gas. However, you shouldn't press the gas pedal too hard.

However, if with an automatic transmission the car jerks when starting, then you won’t be able to change your driving style here, because there is simply no clutch pedal. But even with a manual transmission, the problem may be different. If the car still jerks even when starting smoothly, the problem is clearly not a sudden grip of the clutch discs.

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How to prevent this?

The following tips are a little banal, but effective. At a minimum, you need to fill your car with high-quality gasoline with the correct octane number. The instructions for the car must indicate what fuel should be poured into the tank.

This also applies to oil. It is necessary to use only the lubricant recommended by the manufacturer. Taking into account the presence of counterfeit oils on the market and low quality fuel, it is necessary to change oils even more often than the car manufacturer recommends. At a minimum, after 8-9 thousand kilometers the lubricant must be replaced. This will extend the life of the motor.

In general, you need to operate the car carefully. If you put a heavy load on the engine at least once and heat it up to the “red zone” on the thermometer, then problems with the engine can arise constantly. In this case, jerking when starting is far from the worst problem.

External and internal CV joints

If some suspension parts are poorly secured, then when driving (especially during a sharp start), they can cause the car to jerk. First of all, you need to check the inner and outer CV joints. The inner CV joint transmits rotational energy from the gearbox to the axle shafts and then to the wheels. This element is quite important, and if problems arise with it, it must be changed. This can be done at any service station. Features of failure of the inner CV joint are as follows:

• When destroyed, the inner CV joint becomes loose and can turn when transmitting forces, especially at the start.
• On a straight road without the smallest potholes, the inner CV joint can knock. In this case, it will seem that a dull knock is coming from the wheels.
• Outer CV joints may crunch when turning. If destroyed, they can also cause the car to jerk when starting off.
• Usually, internal CV joints simply wear out and because of this they fail. However, rarely the gearbox can cause a breakdown of this unit. This happens in cases where there is something wrong with the box itself.
• Outer CV joints can break due to impacts or careless driving on a bad road.

If your VAZ car jerks when starting from a stop, then first of all you need to check the CV joints. Often on forums when discussing a similar problem, users point to this particular node. Considering the prevalence of these cars and the cheapness of spare parts, repairing this element is unlikely to be expensive. It is worth noting that a similar problem occurs on the VAZ-2114 car. When starting off, the car jerks, but after replacing the CV joint (“grenade”), the problem disappears.

You will be very lucky if the problem turns out to be in the car's CV joints. These are inexpensive items that are easy to replace. It is much worse if a fault is discovered in the gearbox.

Steering Troubleshooting

If the type of mechanism is a screw-nut, then during long-term operation the wear of the rubbing parts increases the gap between the worm and the driven gear. It can be eliminated by tightening the adjusting bolt in the steering gear housing cover and using high-quality lubricant. The main thing is not to overtighten the bolt while tightening. Otherwise, rotation of the steering wheel will be difficult and wear of parts will only increase.

If the type of mechanism is rack-and-pinion, then severe wear increases the gap between the rack and pinion. The malfunction can also be eliminated by tightening the adjusting bolt. However, there are mechanisms where there is no gap adjustment. They are replaced assembled, or disassembled and polished on machines. Poor fastening of the steering linkage supports is caused by poor tightening of the bolts. This is also a breakdown of the bracket or, in rare cases, the spar. Eliminated by tightening the bolts and welding broken parts. What to do if vibration occurs when starting off (VAZ 2101-2109)? Let's take a look below.

Transmission problem

The gearbox may well be the reason why the car jerks when starting off. However, there should also be other signs of a gearbox malfunction: difficulty shifting all or any one gear, a strange sound from this unit, etc. If this happens on the “mechanics”, then the problem is not so bad. In this case, the box itself can be repaired, and due to the simplicity of its design, repairs will not be so expensive. But if this problem is in the automatic transmission, then this is already serious.

"Brains" of the car

A special program decides in what proportion to mix fuel with air and feed it into the combustion chambers. If the program makes an error, then the engine will receive a mixture with an incorrect air/gasoline ratio, which can also cause the car to jerk when starting off. An oversaturated or undersaturated mixture may be fed into the combustion chambers, then a batch of normal mixture may enter the system, after which improper mixing occurs again - all of which can easily cause the car to jerk, both when starting and when driving at speed. This may also be accompanied by popping noises from the exhaust pipe or lack of engine response to the gas pedal.

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Causes of vibrations on the steering wheel

As a rule, vibrations in the steering wheel appear under various conditions: when the car is moving at different speeds, braking, or when the car is stationary and its engine is idling. If the beating of the steering wheel has become annoying, you need to determine in what circumstances it manifests itself, and depending on this, diagnose the cause.

Steering wheel wobble when the car is stationary

Vibrations in this case can occur for two reasons: due to loose engine mounts or due to problems with the steering rack drive shaft. In the first option, when the engine is idling, the steering wheel hits quite hard. Such vibrations appear on cars with high mileage: either the mountings of the power unit have become loose over time, or the engine was not installed properly after a major overhaul.

The second option: the occurrence of vibrations at idle speed in a stationary car can be caused by wear of the splined part of the steering rack drive shaft or deformation of the shaft itself. With this option, the steering wheel runout may also increase when the car moves.

You cannot drive with such vibrations for a long time because it can lead to destruction of the steering mechanism elements, and, as a result, loss of control of the car - an accident.

Steering wheel vibration when driving at different speeds

Here there are more factors causing vibrations, and they are mainly related to the condition of the wheels.

Firstly, steering wheel beating can occur due to the fact that the wheel rims become clogged with snow or dirt, which leads to imbalance of the wheels and, as a result, the appearance of those same annoying vibrations. In this case, the steering wheel only shakes at low speeds, and when the speed increases, the vibrations disappear completely.

Secondly, steering wheel vibrations can occur at medium (no more than 60 km/h) and high speeds if the wheels were not properly balanced during a seasonal tire change or after tire repair.

In this case, the masses of the wheels become different; when the speed increases, the centrifugal forces of such wheels differ, which is why the steering wheel wobbles. You can’t drive with unbalanced wheels for a long time - in addition to driving discomfort, you can ruin the tires (uneven wear) or, more seriously, damage the suspension elements (in this case, the hub bearings suffer the most).

Thirdly, steering wheel beating can be caused by deformation of the wheel rims (most often steel wheels are susceptible to this). Most often, vibrations in this case occur after the car has crashed into a pothole with one or even two wheels. It happens that a deformed wheel rim is sold to you in a store or market - this is a manufacturing defect.

You can diagnose this reason by removing the wheels yourself, or by contacting the nearest tire shop.

Fourthly, steering wheel vibration may occur if the holes in the wheel rim do not match the diameter of the bolts on the wheel hub. This manifests itself when non-original rims are installed on the car. In this case, the disc begins to “jump” on the hub, vibration occurs, which is transmitted to the steering wheel. The higher the speed, the more the steering wheel vibrates.

Fifthly, steering “fever” occurs due to tire defects. This includes deformation of the cord or sidewall of the tire, which can be caused by manufacturing defects or improper use of the rubber (driving on roads with potholes).

The sixth reason for vibration at speed is uneven tire pressure. Due to the fact that there are different pressures in the wheels on the same axle, the steering wheel begins to shake even at low speeds.

Another cause of vibration in the steering wheel, which can occur at medium and high speeds, is unevenly tightened or loose wheel bolts. In the first case, due to the fact that the bolts are tightened with different forces, a misalignment occurs when the wheel rotates.

Finally, worn-out suspension or steering components can lead to vibrations in the steering wheel. Wear of these parts leads to the appearance of backlashes of various sizes, and the larger they are, the more severely the steering wheel hits at speed. In this case, the appearance of vibrations on the steering wheel serves as a signal to check the suspension or steering elements.

For example, vibration in the steering wheel may occur when cornering. Worn constant velocity joints (CV joints) or failed silent blocks of the front arms are to blame for this. And if the steering wheel shakes when driving over bumps, we risk breaking the steering rack bushings.

Steering wheel wobble when braking

Vibrations in the steering wheel when braking occur due to deformation of the elements of the car's braking system - brake discs or drums. A change in the shape of discs or drums can be caused by a) a manufacturing defect; b) improper operation of the brake system (overheating of the brake discs followed by sudden cooling).

Information letter No. 5 - dated 01/23/17

When owners of LADA cars of the KALINA, GRANTA, PRIORA, VESTA families, equipped with a 1.6 liter engine and gearboxes 2180/2181/2182, complain about “Vibrations, jerking when starting the car,” carry out diagnostics according to the attached methodology, Appendix 1.

If you need to replace the clutch kit:

• If the vehicle is equipped with clutch driven disc 21703-1601130-30, in the absence of violation of operating rules, replace the clutch kit under warranty with: pressure plate 21703-1601085-30, driven disc 21703-1601130-31;
• If the vehicle is equipped with a driven clutch disc 21703-1601130-31 (standard installed only on LADA VESTA GFL120 (KP 21827) vehicles) or a driven clutch disc 21703-1601130-32 (standard installed only on LADA VESTA vehicles GFL110 (KP 21807)) it is necessary to draw up a CLO with a description of the work performed and act in accordance with the recommendations received in response to the CLO.

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Fill out an AGO for the work carried out with a description of the reasons for the non-compliance and using the defect code, 1601130-051-001 “Vibration, jerking when starting a car with AMT”, with an attachment of a photo of the error codes or 0 “Vibration of the car when starting off”, depending on vehicle configuration, defective part 1601130, labor intensity position in accordance with the current collection of labor intensity.

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Vibrations associated with the clutch

Very often, strong vibration when starting off occurs due to a malfunction with the clutch. This may indicate severe wear on the pressure plate and release bearing. The resource of these elements is about 100 thousand kilometers. Over time, the bearing begins to hum and the disc begins to burn.

As a result, the clutch slips under load because a lot of force is applied to it when starting. It is thanks to the disk that it is possible to move the car from its place. The service life of the element on commercial vehicles is significantly reduced, since they have to start with an additional load. Typically, the clutch life of a GAZelle car is 20,000 km. Malfunctions associated with the clutch release drive (such as a broken cable, wear of the rubber cuffs of the slave or master cylinder, wear of the hose, air in the system) do not allow the clutch to be properly released on the vehicle. It may not turn off at all. As a result, it is difficult to engage first gear. This indicates that the system is airy.

Vibration may occur when turned on. It is not worth driving with such a malfunction. A more common situation is vibration of the car when starting off just after replacing the clutch. In this case, there may be poor tightening of the clutch basket mounting bolts or incorrect alignment of the pressure plate. This prevents the gearbox input shaft from engaging the release plate splines. Such consequences also arise as a result of breakage of the petals of the diaphragm spring or damper elements in the torsional vibration limiter.

Steering gear

If the steering mechanism is faulty, a similar problem can also occur. If the steering rack has any malfunction, it can create jerks when starting. In this case, the worn parts of the rack are simply replaced, and the problem disappears.

Also, the steering rack tips may have strong play. As a result, during a sharp start or braking, or increase in speed, so-called steering wheel wobble may occur. Bent tie rods result in a sharp jerk of the steering wheel to one side when starting off. This problem requires a quick solution.

Other elements of the steering system, including bushings and silent blocks, can cause the car to knock and jerk when driving. All this applies to the steering mechanism - it can be the reason why, for example, a GAZelle car jerks when starting off. But GAZelle is not the only brand where such breakdowns occur.

Note that problems with the steering mechanism are easier to solve than problems with the automatic transmission. However, the steering mechanism requires urgent repair for the safety of the driver and passengers.

Possible reasons why the handbrake light is on: opinions of car owners

1. Changed the hubs. “The light in my car blinked sometimes. At first I decided that the problem was with the pads. But later I remembered - I replaced the pads not so long ago. I checked the brake, everything is fine. And then I thought about why the problem could arise? I didn’t think of anything and stopped worrying. The indicator continued to flash periodically... As a result, the right hub bearing began to make noise, after a while it began to hum so loudly that the sound simply made my head split. I first purchased one hub. Then I thought that it would be better to change both parts at once - or rather, this should be done. I bought a second one, changed it, and the problems all disappeared: no noise, no blinking light.”
2. Got a good technician!
   “The handbrake light would come on from time to time while driving. Quite often this happened after bouncing on the pit. I went and bought a brake fluid. And I found a specialist right at the dealership. He then flooded it. He also climbed under the handbrake and said that perhaps the microphone at the lever was acting up (it seems like this happens sometimes). Take the train and watch. But the problem disappeared after filling the brake fluid. The handbrake no longer lights up. By the way, I met an excellent specialist and looked for the problem for free, with pleasure and without showing off.”

3. Depending on the situation,
   “If the light starts to light up after shocks, for example, on a hole or bump, then, most likely, the brake fluid level is on the verge of the required level or lower. You just need to add it and that's it. If it lights up when braking, the pads are definitely worn out completely. I went through this myself in my VAZ.
4. Everything was clear from the beginning
   “A long time ago, when I still had an Opel Astra, a problem arose: when turning or increasing speed, the handbrake light began to light up. I didn’t think about this at all - everything is clear here, the pads are worn out. A little later the squeaks woke up and confirmed their wear. I replaced the pads, did not touch the brake fluid, and the light stopped burning. The same situation was on previous cars: when the pads wear out, the amount of brake fluid decreases and the light starts to burn.”
5. I see three reasons for the malfunction
   “When the handbrake light comes on, you need to check the serviceability of the limit switch. If everything is normal, then the following problem may occur:
   • The brake fluid volume is at minimum or the level sensor is acting up. You need to add liquid to the limit. Nothing has changed - clean the sensor.

   The EBD relay does not turn on or it is broken. Need to get it out and see. Possibly a transmission error. Although, maybe EBD, because if there was an error, in addition to the fact that the handbrake light is on, the ABS would also light up.

6. Problems with the wiring, probably shorted somewhere.”
7. There can be many reasons
   “In addition to the main malfunctions, the handbrake indicator also lights up when there is no pressure in the vacuum brake booster. You need to check the brake pedal: it presses without much effort, therefore the vacuum booster is working. The sensor that monitors this is faulty. There may also be problems with the indicator, which is responsible for the amount of brake fluid. In fact, nothing can break there: there is a reed switch and a magnetic float in the housing. Although the case may crack. So, you just need to buy a new one.”

8. Checking the signaling device
   “The handbrake light is on, which means it is necessary to inspect the warning device. We remove the connector from it. If the light goes out, there is a problem with the device. Corrected without unscrewing the opposite contour. We unscrew this sensor and remove the ball using a magnet. If you don’t have it, you can take a stick of the required size and superglue. Next, we determine where the piston is moved (the ball should be recessed in the groove).

   Having understood which direction to move the piston, unscrew the nut on this side that clamps one of the tubes of this circuit, and move the piston using an awl. You just need to apply a little force and it will move. If it’s a little tight, tap it lightly with a hammer. By the way, a little brake fluid may leak out of the nut that has been unscrewed. The piston will push out. Then we place the piston so that the notch is in the middle, and tighten the tube nut. We return the ball to its place, tighten the sensor with the plug. That's it, end of the problem."

9. Even the phobia remains
   “About eight years ago, this story happened to me. I had an old Padzherik then. I returned from a long trip. I stopped in the parking lot. I was about to turn off the engine and then suddenly the handbrake light came on. Immediately in my head: “What kind of things are these?!” Although I was already accustomed to various regular feints of my transport. The odometer alone showed more than 300 thousand kilometers, but no one knew how much the car had actually traveled. Plus, the brake pedal failed. Literally in three clicks. It turned out that the brake hose had broken.

   Of course, I’m not particularly emotional, but the phrase: “What if...” did not leave me for a long time. After that, I no longer saw the “Brake” light burning separately from the handbrake. And if I saw it, I would immediately check it inside and out before going. I’m not scaring anyone, I’m just telling you about my incident.”

So, you are well versed in auto stuffing - a plus for you. But those who do not really understand what and how it works inside the car will spend quite a long time looking for the cause of a particular malfunction. It is much faster and more reliable to contact a specialist. He will professionally perform the necessary diagnostics of your vehicle and tell you exactly why the handbrake light is on or what else is wrong with your car.

Checking VAZ-2107

Now let's take a closer look at how to identify the cause of such a malfunction on different car models.

The first will be the carburetor VAZ-2107; there are plenty of cases when the car suddenly starts to jerk while driving.

As already mentioned, you need to start checking with the fuel system:

• First you need to inspect all pipes of the system for cracks;
• Open the tank. It happens that in the summer the lid fits very tightly to the neck, blocking the access of air to the tank. When moving, the pump works and creates a vacuum in the tank, due to which the same pump is then unable to “pull” fuel. It seems like a small thing, but this also happens;
• Inspect the fuel filter located in the pipes leading to the fuel pump. These filters are transparent and easy to visually evaluate;
• You can also check the fuel pump without removing it. It is necessary to disconnect the pipeline coming from the pump from the carburetor and lower its end into some container. Then manually pump the pump into action and evaluate how it pumps fuel - it should supply it in even portions;
• While the fuel pipe is disconnected from the carburetor, unscrew the fitting on which the fuel line fits and remove the small mesh filter, clean it and reinstall it;
• Next comes the carburetor. It is advisable to remove it from the car, rinse it thoroughly, and inspect the accelerator pump membrane.

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If actions with the fuel system did not help, we proceed to checking the ignition system.

• We unscrew the spark plugs, check their functionality, and replace them if necessary;
• We check the system wiring for breakdown. This can be done this way - in the dark or in a closed garage (the main thing is that it is dark), open the hood and start the engine. If there are voltage losses on the wiring, they will be immediately noticeable by the sparks that form. Next, we replace the wiring that “breaks through” and check the wire connections;
• Next, we check the distributor, there should be no signs of critical wear, it should be dry under the cover. Be sure to inspect the centrifugal regulator, and also check the vacuum regulator. You should check whether there is a vacuum in the pipe leading to it.
• Then the Hall sensor, coil and switch will be checked for functionality. You can do this yourself if you have the necessary equipment at hand, but you need to know how to check them. But you can contact an auto electrician.
• It is also important not to forget to check the correctness.

This is in general and all the features of identifying the cause of uneven running on the VAZ-2107.

How to fix vibrations on the steering wheel

Having determined exactly why the steering wheel is beating, you can begin to correct this defect. Let's talk about how to get rid of vibrations on the steering wheel in the same order in which we determined the causes of their occurrence.

1. Secure the engine. Using suitable keys, we tighten all the engine mounts, with which it is fixed in the engine compartment. If the fastening is broken or the bolts, washers and nuts are worn out, we replace them with new ones. In order to ensure reliable fastening, we wrap flax tow soaked in grease around the bolt.

2. Replace the drive shaft. A deformed drive shaft cannot be restored - its geometry cannot be corrected even at a service station, and therefore it is better to install a new one in place of the failed shaft.

3. Clean the rims from snow and dirt. The simplest thing is to go to a car wash and knock off the snow accumulated on the wheels with a powerful jet of water. If the vibrations are very annoying, and you have a long way to go to the nearest car wash, you can knock off the snow stuck to the disc with any object that comes to hand. We will not completely remove vibrations, but we will reduce their intensity.

4. We balance the wheels correctly. We go to a tire shop and ask a specialist to balance all four wheels.

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5. Correcting deformed rims. You can give the disk its previous shape using special straightening equipment, which is available to any self-respecting tire shop.

In the case of steel wheels, their unevenness is easier to eliminate (sometimes a tire service worker uses a sledgehammer for this) than with light alloy wheels - to restore their geometry, you will need a special disk straightening machine.

6. Install spacers on the wheels. Hub bolts and holes of different diameters in non-original wheel rims can be “matched” using special spacers (centering rings), which are mounted either at a tire shop or independently.

7. We replace defective tires. Unlike deformed rims, tires with defects cannot be repaired. You will have to buy new tires and install them, observing all balancing rules.

8. Inflate the wheels. To eliminate pressure differences in tires and, as a result, get rid of vibrations on the steering wheel, we inflate the wheels to the parameters specified by the manufacturer. You can find them in the owner's manual or on a special plate, which is often mounted on the middle pillar on the driver's or front passenger's side.

9. Tighten the bolts. We take the gas cylinder wrench in our hands and tighten all the wheel bolts with the same force. After this simple operation, steering wheel vibration usually disappears.

10. We repair the suspension or steering mechanism. The beating of the steering wheel in this case is only a sign of more serious problems. Here you will have to disassemble the front or rear suspension, inspect the integrity of all parts, and if a failed element is found (constant velocity joints, front and rear control arm silent blocks, steering rack bushings, etc.), replace it.

11. We repair or replace brake discs/drums. There are two methods to get rid of vibration on the steering wheel when braking. The first is the grooving of brake discs or drums. It is performed using special equipment at a service station, but you can also do it yourself.

In any case, if vibrations occur on the steering wheel, immediately carry out diagnostics.

Engine

As sad as it is to admit, a problem with the engine also occurs when such problems occur in the operation of the car. If there is really something wrong with the engine, its speed should jump during sudden jerks. The engine itself can live its own life and respond weakly to the gas pedal.

What could cause the engine to run like this:

• Wear of friction pairs, which requires major repairs. This requires a lot of investment.
• Crankshaft wear. In this case, the car should not only start to move jerkily, but also make noise and knock from the engine.
• Engine coking. In this case, decarbonization will be required, which can be done at a service station.

Note that engine-related problems are the most unpleasant and most often require a large investment.

What's the result?

As you can see, at the initial stage of diagnosis, if the engine twitches at idle, you should start with the simplest:

• check spark plugs and high-voltage wires;
• assess the condition of the air and fuel filter;
• if the car has a carburetor, clean and adjust the carburetor;
• on the injector, check and wash the nozzles;
• perform computer diagnostics of the engine;

If the diesel engine jerks at idle, then problems with the injection pump should also be added to the general list of possible problems. The pump has many moving elements, damage to which or clogging can also lead to jerking or obvious tripping in the cylinders.

Why might the engine vibrate at idle? Causes of malfunction, diagnostics. Tips and recommendations for reducing engine vibration levels.

In idle mode and at low speeds, the engine shakes: possible reasons for the unstable operation of the power unit. Self-diagnosis methods.

For what reasons may misfire of the fuel-air mixture occur in one or more cylinders? Fault diagnosis, recommendations.

Signs of a non-working cylinder (tribbing and vibration) of a diesel engine. Troubleshooting: compression, diesel injectors, glow plugs, injection pump and others.

Causes of vibration and unstable operation of a diesel engine in idle mode. Possible causes and fault diagnosis.

Engine trouble: symptoms. Why does tripping occur and how to find the reason why the motor starts to trip. Checking power, ignition, compression, etc.

Situations when a car starts to jerk for no reason are common. In some cases the problem is resolved quickly, but in others it cannot be resolved for a long time.

The whole problem here lies in the reasons for this phenomenon, which are not so easy to identify as it seems at first glance.

But we will try to help you with this.

Let's try to figure out in detail what can cause the car to jerk while moving. But to do this, you first need to understand how everything happens.

Diesel engines

If there are signs of uneven acceleration, the worst failure for diesel engines is turbine failure, since both the part itself and its replacement are expensive. Typically, symptoms of compressor failure are not sudden. And the later they are identified and eliminated, the more expensive the repairs will be. Therefore, it is important to remember that turbocharger defects must be repaired in a timely manner. Main signs of impending failure:

• turbine whistle;
• blue or black smoke from the chimney;
• loss of power during uniform movement or acceleration.

It is also not uncommon for the turbine pressure sensor to fail, which is why air compression may not meet the engine’s needs. This is an inexpensive part that can be replaced using an amateur tool.

More common causes of jerky driving are leaks in the vacuum hoses. These black, inconspicuous tubes have a big impact on the performance of the diesel engine. If damage or ruptures can be detected, restoring the seal yourself will not be difficult.

It can be said that most causes of jerking in both diesel and gasoline cars can be eliminated and even prevented by regular maintenance. Often this is simply the result of dirt or worn parts. Other causes occur less frequently and are best eliminated in specialized workshops.

Troubleshooting automatic transmission

Before starting repairs, it is advisable to go to a service station and diagnose the box for errors. Automatic gearbox malfunctions are eliminated by searching for worn and faulty components, then replacing them. It is worth replacing only with high-quality spare parts from original manufacturers. Don't buy cheap analogues. When replacing, you should also pay attention to the bearings. Otherwise, the new part may fail before its time.

Repairs need to be approached comprehensively, especially in the case of an automatic transmission. Here you need to go through all the parts for wear and play, replace all rubber products, such as:

Upon completion of the repair, the oil in the gearbox should be replaced.

Also, at a service station, carry out diagnostics and reset errors stored in the archive of the electronic control unit. In the future, you should use the gearbox carefully, avoid jerking when starting, do not accelerate the car sharply, and before starting to drive, hold the brake pedal down for about one or two seconds so that the pressure required for the gearbox to operate is generated in the oil system.

Causes of malfunction

General view of the engine

As in any car, in the Lada Kalina, jerking at low speeds is the first sign of a malfunction in one of the systems. Let's look at where the main problems arise:

• The fuel system and its components can cause the problem.
• The ignition system is associated with the fact that the car jerks at low speeds.
• Another reason could be the gearbox.

To more accurately determine the causes of the malfunction, it is worth considering each system and component separately.

Fuel system

The car jerks at low speeds - this may be due to the fact that the engine does not receive enough fuel mixture.

The problem may lie in the fuel system. In this case, you will have to examine several elements that are part of it.

Fuel rail and fuel injectors

Let's look at finding the problem step by step:

• The first place to look for a problem is the fuel rail and injectors . It is the poor condition of this unit that can cause the car to jerk when accelerating.
• The fuel pump, filter and lines can cause the driver to feel slight jolts at low speeds. For diagnostics, you will need to remove the fuel pump from the gas tank housing.

Why does the engine jerk at low and idle speeds?

So, if the car jerks at idle, there may be several reasons for such a malfunction. Most often, problems affect the ignition system and power supply system; less often, elements of the engine control system or parts inside the internal combustion engine fail.

• First of all, damage to the engine mounts should be excluded, since increased vibrations from the internal combustion engine in this case often occur precisely at idle. If everything is normal with the airbags, then twitching of the power unit may occur due to malfunctions of one cylinder.
• The most common cause is spark plugs, as well as high-voltage armored wires. Often, the spark plug may be damaged, dirty from carbon deposits, etc., as a result of which there is a spark on it, but it is very weak or unstable, and is supplied at the wrong angle.

Damage to the insulation of high-voltage wires when a spark “breaks through” also leads to similar symptoms in the form of motor twitching. The ignition coil, switch, ignition module, and distributor also deserve additional attention. Depending on which ignition system is installed on a particular engine, all its elements must be checked one by one.

• After diagnosing the ignition system, you need to move on to the fuel and air supply systems. As a rule, injection nozzles may be faulty or dirty. Fuel filters are also checked, and fuel lines should be inspected for leaks.

• Let us also add that in cases where the engine jerks at idle, you need to make sure that not only the fuel filter, but also the air filter is in good condition.

The fact is that if the air filter is dirty, the engine may not have enough oxygen to prepare the correct fuel-air mixture. The same is true in cases where airing occurs in the power system or excess air is sucked in at the inlet.

In any case, the mixture may turn out to be too rich or lean, and the normal and timely combustion of such a charge in the cylinder does not occur. At the same time, in such a situation, the spark plugs become even more covered with soot, and sparking further deteriorates.

• On injection engines, the cause of twitching at idle in some cases is the electronic engine control system (ECM). In such a situation, it should be taken into account that this system includes a whole group of various electronic sensors and actuators that exchange data with the controller (ECU).

• Another possible cause of engine jerking at idle is problems with the throttle valve and problems with the IAC (idle air control). The idle air control itself is a stepper motor that closes the channel for supplying air bypassing the throttle valve.

In case of incorrect operation and malfunction of the regulator, as well as in the accumulation of a large amount of dirt and carbon deposits on the damper, the idle speed becomes unstable. In this case, the engine not only jerks, but the idle speed often fluctuates greatly.

Such “floating” of revolutions can appear on a cold engine and disappear as it warms up. Also, in some cases, the speed jumps and floats both cold and hot. To solve the problem, you need to clean the throttle and also check the IAC. It is also important to consider that on many cars, after cleaning, it is also necessary to train the throttle valve.

Diagnostic technique

Methodology for diagnosing a car and eliminating the defect notes “Vibration, jerking when starting the car”:

1. Test drive to confirm the defect. Is the defect confirmed?

• YES - go to step 2:
• NO - no repair work is required.

2. Checking for the presence of fault codes in the ECM and KURKP. Are there any fault codes?

• YES - eliminate the causes of their occurrence in accordance with the relevant technical specifications, and then proceed to step 1;
• NO - go to step 3.

3. Are there any comments on the stability of the engine at idle and low speeds?

• YES - eliminate the comment and go to step 1;
• NO - go to step 4.

4. Are there any leaks of working fluids (oil, coolant) in the gearbox area? Was there a risk of getting caught in the clutch?

• YES - eliminate the causes of their occurrence and go to step 5;
• NO - go to step 6.

5. Remove the clutch. Are there any signs of oil and/or coolant on the clutch friction surfaces?

• YES - replace the clutch kit and wipe the flywheel with acetone/degreaser to remove oil and/or coolant;
• NO - go to step 6.

6. Are there any damages to the power unit supports?

• YES - eliminate the comments and go to step 1;
• NO - go to step 7.

7. Are the tightening torques of the bolts securing the power unit supports adequate?

• YES - go to step 8;
• NO - reach the required values ​​and go to step 1.

8. Are the tightening torques of the bolts of the belt securing the gearbox to the engine maintained?

• YES - if there are no violations of the operating rules, replace the clutch kit;
• NO - reach the required values ​​and go to step 1.

Note: the most obvious starting mode in which vibration appears is smooth starting on small slopes. At the same time, when starting, you must not allow the engine speed to drop below idle speed.

Let us remind you that you can determine which transmission is installed on a Lada Vesta car by the values ​​​​from the fourth digit of the VIN code (GFL11 - VAZ manual transmission; GFL12 - AMT; GFL13 - Renault manual transmission).

New Lada: Subtleties of choosing and replacing spark plugs for 16-valve Priora engines

By the way, we have already described how the clutch is replaced under warranty, as well as other AvtoVAZ regulations.

Keywords: Lada Vesta clutch | clutch Lada Kalina | Lada Granta clutch | Lada Priora clutch | gearbox Lada Vesta | gearbox Lada Kalina | gearbox Lada Granta | gearbox Lada Priora | AvtoVAZ order

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Messages 15

1 Topic by Alternative 2017-03-24 17:58:52

• Alternative
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• Registration: 2016-04-06
• Messages: 99 Thanks : 14
• Car: VAZ 2110

Topic: Jerks (shakes) when pulling away with clutch

Good afternoon everyone. There was a problem when starting off with the clutch, the car twitched and shook. A couple of weeks ago, I changed the clutch, pressure plate and release bearing, but the problem remained. The old parts were not very worn out, but I replaced them anyway. What else could be the reason for all this? Now it mostly shakes, starts off well and smoothly with gas.

2 Reply from “Robotron” 2017-03-24 23:23:27

• "Robotron"
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• Registration: 2015-11-22
• Messages: 292 Thanks : 81
• Car: VAZ – I spin it myself

Re: Jerks (shakes) when starting with the clutch

The cause may be a worn out flywheel. When replacing the clutch, what condition was the flywheel in?

Now it mostly shakes, starts off well and smoothly with gas.

– at what speed? Measure the pressure in the fuel rail.

3 Reply from Alternative 2017-03-25 10:27:44

• Alternative
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• Registration: 2016-04-06
• Messages: 99 Thanks : 14
• Car: VAZ 2110

Re: Jerks (shakes) when starting with the clutch

The cause may be a worn out flywheel. When replacing the clutch, what condition was the flywheel in?

Now it mostly shakes, starts off well and smoothly with gas.

– at what speed? Measure the pressure in the fuel rail.

There is little wear on the flywheel, you can still drive. Shakes when starting, at xx (840). How can pressure affect it? The engine runs fine at idle.

4 Reply from “Robotron” 2017-03-25 12:31:41

• "Robotron"
• Experienced
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• Registration: 2015-11-22
• Messages: 292 Thanks : 81
• Car: VAZ – I spin it myself

Re: Jerks (shakes) when starting with the clutch

It looks like your engine is not pulling, when I release the clutch pedal without touching the gas pedal, the car starts and goes 6 km/h at idle

5 Reply from Alternative 2017-03-25 12:55:26

• Alternative
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• Registration: 2016-04-06
• Messages: 99 Thanks : 14
• Car: VAZ 2110

Re: Jerks (shakes) when starting with the clutch

It looks like your engine is not pulling, when I release the clutch pedal without touching the gas pedal, the car starts and goes 6 km/h at idle

I have the same thing, but it shakes when I start moving.

6 Reply from OlegD 2017-03-25 13:09:58

• OlegD
• Connoisseur
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• From: Moscow
• Registration: 2014-01-15
• Messages: 511 Thanks : 115
• Car: 21114, door 21124 1.6 l., 2007 onwards

Re: Jerks (shakes) when starting with the clutch

Does it jerk only when releasing the clutch? Could the flywheel have moved?

7 Reply from Alternative 2017-03-25 13:38:02

• Alternative
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• Registration: 2016-04-06
• Messages: 99 Thanks : 14
• Car: VAZ 2110

Re: Jerks (shakes) when starting with the clutch

Does it jerk only when releasing the clutch? Could the flywheel have moved?

Yes, it is in the process that it begins. As soon as the slightest movement appears, shaking begins. Before replacing the clutch it was strong, now it is a little less. We looked at the flywheel and everything is fine with it. Maybe the problem is not in the flywheel?

8 Reply from OlegD 2017-03-25 14:58:12

• OlegD
• Connoisseur
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• From: Moscow
• Registration: 2014-01-15
• Messages: 511 Thanks : 115
• Car: 21114, door 21124 1.6 l., 2007 onwards

Re: Jerks (shakes) when starting with the clutch

Maybe, but unlikely. I have an improvement proposal: maybe we should forget about this? I was also recently told that when I try to start using the clutch, something is wrong with me. I didn’t even understand what exactly, because I always start with the gas. Or is it very annoying?

9 Reply from Alternative 2017-03-25 15:15:23 (2017-03-25 16:19:00 edited by Alternative)

• Alternative
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• Registration: 2016-04-06
• Messages: 99 Thanks : 14
• Car: VAZ 2110

Re: Jerks (shakes) when starting with the clutch

Maybe, but unlikely. I have an improvement proposal: maybe we should forget about this? I was also recently told that when I try to start using the clutch, something is wrong with me. I didn’t even understand what exactly, because I always start with the gas. Or is it very annoying?

The offer is very good, maybe I’ll do that) It’s just that I’m not the only one who uses the car, my wife also drives it, and she often starts without gas and is afraid of stalling. I want to do everything for her comfort =) I always take off with the gas. Well, in general, this is a little annoying.

10 Reply from “Robotron” 2017-03-25 18:56:42

• "Robotron"
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• Registration: 2015-11-22
• Messages: 292 Thanks : 81
• Car: VAZ – I spin it myself

Re: Jerks (shakes) when starting with the clutch

Well, I would immediately write that sometimes my wife drives (I myself saw how they start moving in a car). This makes it clearer that there is not enough torque when the car starts moving. The main reasons: low compression, dirty mass air flow sensor, low pressure in the fuel rail, dirty coarse and fine gasoline filters, dirty air filter, dirty injectors, clogged catalyst. Have you done the diagnostics recently?

11 Reply from Alternative 2017-03-25 19:09:44 (2017-03-25 19:14:58 edited by Alternative)

• Alternative
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• Registration: 2016-04-06
• Messages: 99 Thanks : 14
• Car: VAZ 2110

Re: Jerks (shakes) when starting with the clutch

Well, I would immediately write that sometimes my wife drives (I myself saw how they start moving in a car). This makes it clearer that there is not enough torque when the car starts moving. The main reasons: low compression, dirty mass air flow sensor, low pressure in the fuel rail, dirty coarse and fine gasoline filters, dirty air filter, dirty injectors, clogged catalyst. Have you done the diagnostics recently?

=))) I have January 7.2, there is no catalyst. I do the diagnostics myself, there are almost no deviations for my ECU, except for the advance angle, which can be 5. Basically, everything is normal. The only thing is that I haven’t measured the pressure yet and haven’t cleaned the injectors. Well, compression in 2=6 in 3=9 But how can this affect when xx is stable?

Source: xn--2111-43da1a8c.xn--p1ai

Why does the car jerk when starting off?

If the car starts to jerk while starting from a stop, the reason is usually due to a malfunction of the clutch or CV joints. In such cases, it is imperative to carry out diagnostics in order to immediately determine the breakdown and begin to eliminate it.

The main thing is not to panic, you need to make sure that before you start driving, the engine is warmed up to operating temperature, there are no problems with the ignition and the fuel supply system. If everything is normal here, then we need to further look for the cause.

Driving style

Inexperienced drivers often abruptly release the clutch pedal, causing the car to start jerking away. There are no malfunctions, you just need to change your driving style, learn to smoothly release the clutch and add gas at the same time.

It is necessary to determine the moment of clutch actuation on the car. To do this, start off without adding gas and smoothly release the clutch. Having determined in what position the clutch begins to engage, you can move away smoothly. On a car with an automatic transmission there is no clutch pedal. In order for such a car to move without jerking, the gas pedal must be pressed smoothly.

Problem with CV joints

In front-wheel drive cars, the force from the gearbox is transmitted to the wheels using internal and external CV joints. If these parts partially fail, the car will jerk when moving away.

Signs of CV joint failure:

• backlash;
• knocking while driving;
• crunching when turning.

Replacing CV joints can be done at a service station or independently. These are relatively inexpensive parts that require little time to replace. Having an inspection hole and a set of keys, you can replace the CV joints with your own hands.

Procedure for replacing the CV joint:

• Removing the wheel from the side where the CV joints will be replaced.
• Loosening the hub nut.
• Unscrewing the bolts that secure the outer CV joint to the main drive shaft.
• Removing the axle shaft. It is removed along with the inner and outer CV joints.

Clutch faults

Very often, problems associated with car jerking at the start occur when the clutch breaks down.

Main clutch malfunctions:

• wear or damage to the driven disk, repair consists of replacing it;
• jamming of the disc hub on the gearbox input shaft. Clean the slots from dirt and remove burrs. If the damage is large, you will have to replace the disk or shaft;
• wear of the linings or loosening of their fixation is eliminated by installing a new driven disk;
• weakening or breakage of springs, window wear is eliminated by replacing the disk;
• Seizure on the flywheel or pressure plate. You will have to change the flywheel or clutch basket;
• loss of elasticity by the spring plates located on the driven disk. Eliminated by replacing the driven disk.

Replacement of the clutch driven disc is carried out in the inspection pit. You can raise the front of the car using jacks or a winch.

Work order:

• Preparatory work. Depending on the design of the car, you will need to remove the starter, driveshaft, resonator, exhaust manifold and other parts.
• Removing the gearbox allows access to the clutch.
• Removing the clutch basket cover. After this, all parts are removed from the flywheel. A new driven disk is installed and the mechanism is assembled.

Causes of jerking during acceleration

There can be several reasons why a car jerks during acceleration.

Malfunctions in the engine ignition system

If the ignition fails, it will be strongly felt during acceleration. This happens because when you press the gas pedal, fuel is injected into the cylinders, and detonation should occur there. If the ignition is set incorrectly or fails, then fuel flows, but the spark strikes at the wrong time. In other words, some part of the fuel does not ignite or ignites at the wrong time. Some cylinders may not detonate at all. This all leads to unbalanced work and, consequently, jerks. The cause could also be faulty spark plugs or armor wires. It is advisable to change spark plugs sometimes. Spark plugs are checked using special equipment, where, at a pressure the same as in the engine, it is checked whether the spark plug produces a spark.

Armor wires are checked with an ohmmeter for the presence of the required resistance. You can also check the quality of the connections between the wires and the spark plugs. The procedure should be carried out with a warm engine. You should take water into a bottle and use a sprayer to distribute it with the engine running on the armored wires and the connection with the spark plugs. If the engine speed begins to decrease and the car starts to stall, then the wires should be replaced.

If you do not understand how the ignition is set, it is better to contact a specialist. This process is quite accurate, there are no mistakes to be made there.

Malfunctions in the power system

The most common reason for a car jerking during acceleration is a problem with the power and fuel supply system. When you press the gas pedal due to contaminated elements of the fuel system, there is not enough fuel to accelerate. This is why jerks occur during acceleration.

The problem may be:

1. Filters. The air filter and fuel filter need to be changed regularly. This is a consumable item that quickly breaks down.
2. Contamination of the fuel supply system. In carburetor cars, these are jets in which the slightest dust or pieces of dirt greatly affect the flow of fuel. Injector nozzles may become clogged.
3. Fuel pump. If it fails or partially begins to show less performance, namely, does not have time to pump the required fuel pressure into the system, then during acceleration this deficit will be visible.

There are various aerosols and additives for cleaning fuel systems. If you choose a product from a trusted manufacturer, they work very well. But this may not be enough in all cases. There are cases where mechanical cleaning or repair of individual parts is required. A valve or some other part of the mechanism may fail.

What to do if the box kicks

If an automatic transmission or manual transmission begins to work with problems, it is necessary to immediately carry out a full diagnosis, and this work should be carried out by an experienced specialist. In addition, immediately prepare for expensive repairs, especially if the car has a Japanese hydraulic automatic transmission. The cause of kicking is almost always dirty oil, which has been spoiled by burnt clutches. You can’t delay repairs: the longer you put it off, the more severe the damage to the transmission. This means more costs for its restoration. Perhaps everything will not be so bad and it will be possible to get by with a noticeably smaller amount. Although you shouldn’t really count on such an outcome.

Important! Black or very dark oil in the box is not the cause, but only a consequence of the problem. Therefore, an oil change alone, even a complete one, will not correct the situation.

What causes the car to jerk when running at low speeds?

Since the car begins to twitch when reaching even low speeds, it will not be possible to immediately identify one specific problem. Problems may be hidden:

1. In the engine fuel mixture supply system;
2. In the vehicle ignition system;
3. At the checkpoint;
4. In the distributor design;
5. Includes fuel filters;
6. In the sparking system;
7. In the control unit of the vehicle's on-board computer.

Let's go through the faults in each of the listed systems in detail.

Tip: When detecting a “jerking” behavior in the vehicle, the brakes may also squeak when braking. These 2 problems can be either interrelated or indicate completely different breakdowns.

Checking the engine fuel mixture supply system

Often the reason that the car jerks at low speeds is due to a malfunction of the power system. When the car starts to move, the cylinders simply cannot receive the required amount of fuel mixture, as a result of which the car is unable to transfer the required amount of power to the chassis for smooth driving and smooth commissioning of the transmission. As a result of increased pressure and transmission resistance, uneven running of the machine appears.

To solve this problem, it is recommended that you first pay attention to checking the throttle body. It also wouldn’t hurt to test and diagnose the performance of the sensors installed in the system for determining idle speed indicators. Do not forget to check the serviceability of the throttle valve position and the mass air flow sensor.

Throttle body

During diagnostics, most often a breakdown is found in the injectors responsible for uniform injection of the fuel mixture. In rare cases, engine jerking problems may be related to the air ducts that connect the injector receiver to the air filter structure. Here the problem lies in depressurization of connections and loss of pressure.

The solution to the problem is to replace all faulty components yourself or with the help of car service specialists. After repair, it is recommended to ensure that all connections are in good working order and that there is no loss of pressure in the fuel line system that is connected to the fuel pump itself.

If a power unit with a carburetor system was installed in the engine compartment of your vehicle, then you need to check the idle valve and the absence of damage directly to the carburetor.

fuel mixture

Checking the car's ignition system

Sometimes the car starts to jerk while driving at low speeds as a result of a breakdown in the ignition system. Basically, the problem will be caused due to untimely ignition of the fuel mixture and air flow. In rare cases, the malfunction may be hidden in the receipt of low voltage from the spark plugs. The spark voltage simply will not be enough to ignite the fuel mixture in a timely manner. Also, when diagnosing the ignition system, check:

• Performance of ignition coils;
• Serviceability of the spark plug set;
• No tears in high-voltage wires;
• There are no problems in the ignition distributor-interruptor (in simple terms - in the distributor);
• Correctness of values ​​coming from a set of sensors responsible for the position of the camshaft and crankshaft;
• The performance of the switch located inside the entire structure.

Often, the car may jerk due to the long use of a set of spark plugs. There is often a situation where problems are caused by spark plug gaps not meeting established standards.

Advice: if the ignition module on a VAZ-2112 is faulty, the crankshaft position sensor will be damaged and it will not be possible to start the car’s engine at all. This problem can only be solved after a thorough check and subsequent repair of the knock sensor.

ignition coil

Checking the car gearbox

Jerking of a vehicle engine often occurs due to improper operation of the engine and infrequent maintenance of automatic transmissions. If the total mileage of your car is 100-200 thousand km, then even with a seemingly serviceable gearbox, the car will move with some jerks.

As a result of frequent jerking of the engine, the oil in the box foams, causing the amount of solution to be either too small or too large. Repairing a gearbox takes a little time. In a car service center, in just a couple of hours they will remove the box and restore its operation.

Transmission

Problems with the accelerator

At the moment when the driver sharply presses the gas pedal, a rapid increase in engine speed occurs, which, in turn, can lead to ineffective operation of the vacuum ignition angle regulators. As a result, at low speeds the distributor will sink, and the car will begin to move jerkily.

Since, with the gradual combustion of gasoline, the driver begins to increase engine speed, the engine must ignite and let in the fuel and air mixture even faster. If there is a problem with the vacuum regulators, the car will not be able to quickly increase speed, which will cause problems with opening the throttle valve. Without the simultaneous opening of the damper and air supply, gasoline will not be able to burn in time, which can ultimately lead to damage to the bearing, which is responsible for the ignition timing.

To solve the problem, the vacuum regulators are first diagnosed. Here you can independently remove all the hose and pipes, having previously tightly covered them with your hands. When the engine is running, you will hear the retracting effect of the regulators working. If a vacuum does not form when the air mixture is supplied, it means that the seal is broken precisely because of the damper. You should replace it and assemble all components in the reverse order.