How much does a new pump for a VAZ 2107 and services for its replacement cost?

What is this?

By car pump, motorists and service station technicians understand a device that supplies fluid. The cooling and fuel systems are equipped with this part. The pumps operate in conjunction with the power unit.

The water pump consists of the following elements:

  1. Frame.
  2. Shaft.
  3. Impeller.
  4. Bearings.

If the water pump fails, it will lead to overheating of the engine and its breakdown. The malfunction of such an element is indicated by the following changes in the operation of the car:

  • The coolant temperature indicator flashes.
  • There is a smell of coolant in the cabin.
  • Extraneous noises are heard (usually a whistling sound).
  • Drops of coolant are visible under the car.

Structurally, the fuel pump assembly consists of the following parts:

  1. Fuel level sensor.
  2. Fuel level sensor float.
  3. Gasoline pump.
  4. Input and output highways.

The following signs indicate a fuel pump failure:

  • The engine won't start.
  • There are fuel stains under the car.
  • There is a smell of gasoline (gas) in the cabin.

Pump selection

When purchasing a new pump, you should adhere to the following rules:

  1. You should choose a reliable manufacturer, giving preference to well-known brands and avoiding cheap counterfeits.
  2. You need to pay attention to the product catalog number - 21081307010 for VAZ 2110/11/12.
  3. The product must have original packaging with trademarks and holograms characteristic of each manufacturer.
  4. A gasket should always be supplied with the pump.
  5. The package must contain a warranty card that allows you to exchange or return the pump if defects are found.

A high-quality pump should include not only the original packaging, but also a warranty card with a gasket. The cost of a new pump for an 8-valve engine starts from 800 rubles, and for a 16-valve engine - from 1 thousand rubles. In a car service center, the work of replacing a pump is estimated at approximately 1 thousand rubles. The most popular are water pumps produced by TZA and HEPU.

Pricing factors

A new pump for the VAZ 2107 can be purchased in different places. As motorists note, the cost of such a part differs at different sales points. This fact is explained by the influence on the cost of the following pricing factors:

  1. Types of auto parts.
  2. Qualities.
  3. Options.
  4. Places of purchase.
  5. Reputation of the manufacturer of the part.
  6. Originality.
  7. Seller popularity.
  8. Needs for ordering goods delivery services.

Factors influencing price

To buy a profitable, high-quality grenade for a VAZ 2114, you need to go to many places that sell auto parts. When comparing the cost of this spare part, novice drivers wonder why the price range for CV joints is so wide. The fact is that sellers take into account the following factors when forming prices:

  • State.
  • Variety.
  • Quality.
  • Originality.
  • Place of purchase.
  • Popularity of the selling company.
  • Brand.
  • The need for delivery or replacement of auto parts.

Kinds

Depending on its purpose, the pump can be:

  • Water (circulates coolant to prevent engine overheating).
  • Fuel (supplies fuel to the engine cylinders and maintains pressure in the fuel system).

Pumps are also distinguished:

  1. Mechanical.
  2. Electrical.

The latter are more popular and cost more.

Gasoline pumps are classified into the following types:

  • Geared.
  • Vacuum.
  • Centrifugal.
  • Roller.

According to originality, a pump for a VAZ 2107 car can be:

  1. Original (manufacturer is AvtoVAZ plant).
  2. Non-original (manufacturers are other companies).

According to the manufacturer, you can buy a new pump for VAZ 2107 of the following brands:

  • AvtoVAZ.
  • HEPU.
  • PEKAR.
  • RENAULT.
  • FINWHALE.
  • LUZAR.
  • AOTON.
  • TZA.

Types

The following types of CV joints are available for sale:

  1. External , which are installed in the hub and transmit rotation from the drive shaft axis to the wheels.
  2. Internal , transmitting rotation from the gearbox to the wheel drive.

Depending on the type of design, auto grenades can be of the following types:

  • Tripods . Spherical rollers are used to transmit torque. These elements are located on the support fingers.
  • Ball . Consist of balls, a separator and grooves. Torque is transmitted by moving the balls along the grooves.
  • Twin cardan shafts . They consist of two universal joints connected to each other.
  • Cam . Available in shaped discs and forks. Fist grenades can withstand heavy loads.

Also, grenades can be in the following condition:

  1. New.
  2. Used, refurbished.
  3. Old, requiring minor repairs.

Available for sale:

  • Original.
  • Non-original car grenades for VAZ 2114.

The latter are produced under the following brands:

  • TRIALLI.
  • TORQUE.
  • LOEBRO.
  • HOLA.
  • FINWHALE.

Depending on where the purchase was made, the grenade can be:

  1. From the car market.
  2. From the point of dismantling transport for metal.
  3. From the online store.
  4. Purchased through a private advertisement.
  5. From an auto parts store.

Estimated cost

You can purchase a new pump for a VAZ 2107 in Russia at a price from 600 to 2900 rubles .

Approximate prices depending on the type of car part:

  • Fuel pump - from 600 to 2900 rubles .
  • Water - from 820 to 2400 rubles .

Prices depending on configuration:

  • In standard configuration - from 600 rubles .
  • Assembled - from 1900 rubles .

Estimated cost of pumps from different manufacturers:

  • AvtoVAZ - about 1800 rubles.
  • HEPU – about 1700 rubles.
  • PEKAR - about 850 rubles.
  • AOTON - about 2800 rubles.
  • RENAULT - about 2400 rubles.
  • FINWHALE - about 800 rubles.
  • LUZAR - about 1400 rubles.
  • TZA - about 1300 rubles.

Advantages of Superstore

1. Fast service 2. Quality of work thanks to our experience 3. Own availability of new and used parts from disassembly. 3. Compliance with the previously agreed cost and deadlines in the Order - work order 4. Providing a guarantee for work, discounts on all work performed.

Timely identification and elimination of faults significantly saves your money and helps to avoid emergency situations. Diagnostics, scheduled seasonal maintenance, and service maintenance in accordance with regulations contribute to safe operation.

Service life of a water pump in a car

The pump is designed for the same service life as the timing system elements. If the manual for your car states that the timing belt should be changed once every 80,000 kilometers or every 8 years, then the pump should be changed according to this schedule.

But there are several reasons for earlier failure of a car pump:

  • low quality of spare parts - you installed non-original parts during the last pump replacement;
  • low-quality antifreeze in the system - the liquid corrodes the seals and leads to leaks;
  • mechanical damage - under any impact, the water pump may jam;
  • solid inclusions in antifreeze - in this case, the pump will be damaged from the inside.

Also, another reason for early failure of the pump on a car will be improper installation. For example, during installation the technician did not take into account the requirements for the tightening torque of the bolts and overtightened the pump. Because of this, its body began to move somewhat, the mechanism could not operate in normal modes and failed.

What else needs to be changed along with the pump?

Usually, when replacing the pump, the timing belt with rollers and tensioner should also be replaced. If the timing chain drive is chain driven, you should carefully inspect the chain for stretching. Pumps often fail at the moment when the life of the timing mechanisms is already completed.

If a belt breaks or the timing chain stretches and jumps, many engines will require repair of the cylinder head, which will be a very expensive undertaking. Therefore, when replacing the pump, you should carefully examine the timing system and, if necessary, replace components. Moreover, the entire mechanism will be disassembled.

Self-replacement of the pump on a VAZ 2110 (8 valves)

  1. Place the car on a viewing hole or overpass.
  2. Open the hood, turn off the power by removing the wire from the negative terminal of the battery.
  3. Open the expansion tank cap.
  4. Go down into the pit, place a wide-necked container (at least 5 liters) under the cylinder block.
  5. Unscrew the coolant drain plug (key 13) and drain it. Screw the drain plug back.
  6. Unscrew the 3 bolts securing the timing case (10mm wrench).
  7. Remove the cover.
  8. Set the crankshaft to the top dead center position of the first cylinder. To do this, turn off the gear and turn the bolt securing the generator pulley with a 19mm wrench until the mark on the camshaft gear matches the mark on the rear timing case.

  9. Check the alignment of the marks on the flywheel and clutch housing. To do this, remove the rubber plug on the crankcase to the right of the cylinder block.
  10. Secure the crankshaft in this position by inserting a large slotted screwdriver into the flywheel teeth.

  11. Loosen the nut securing the tension roller (17 wrench) and turn it counterclockwise with a special wrench, loosening the tension of the timing belt.

  12. Remove the belt and tension roller.
  13. Unscrew the 5 bolts securing the lower timing case, incl. and 3 bolts securing the pump (head or end cap 10). Remove the cover.

  14. Using a screwdriver, pry the pump housing and pull it out. Clean the surface of the seat from fragments of the old gasket.
  15. Lubricate the gasket on both sides with automotive sealant and place it on the new pump housing.
  16. Install the new pump into place.
  17. Carry out assembly work in reverse order. It will be better if you replace both the belt and the tension roller along with the pump. This way you will know exactly the resource of all these parts.
  18. When installing the timing belt, check its tension by turning one of its fields horizontally. The correct tension is one at which the belt can be rotated by finger force no more than 90 degrees.

Disassembling the pump

The pump is disassembled in the following sequence:

  1. The removed pump is wiped with a dry cloth.
  2. Using a special puller, the pulley is removed.
  3. The bearings are knocked off the shaft with a hammer.
  4. The shaft is removed from the pump housing.
  5. The impeller is removed.
  6. The oil seal or what is left of it is removed.
  7. The insides are thoroughly washed and cleaned.

If the pump is leaking, the seal must be replaced. The cause of a whistle at high speeds is usually a strong shaft wear.

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