Transmissions are not included. Appears when the engine is running - the main problems

Problems with engaging first gear when starting a car are most often caused by damage to the clutch or synchronizer . But also sometimes the first gear does not engage well due to wear on the engine mounts, an incorrectly configured shift mechanism (rocker), a breakdown of the internal switch, and even malfunctions of the chassis.

Let's look at all the main causes of such breakdowns in different situations: when starting, on a cold and on a warm gearbox, and we'll figure out how to engage first gear without harming the gearbox.

This article will help you figure out why the gearbox shifts slowly, the first gear is difficult to engage, or, conversely, the gearbox is stuck in 1st gear.

Poor activation due to the slider

First, let's look at why first gear doesn't engage well and the problem is with the transmission.

Often the problem with turning on the speed lies in the latch and slider. The appearance of a burr near the groove for the retainer on the slide can easily prevent the ball retainer from entering the groove. When moving the slider, the latch rests on this burr and cannot overcome it without significant effort from the driver. In this case, the gears come very close to each other, but do not engage, and the teeth of one gear hit the other.

In the future, such beating can lead to flaring of the teeth, and the impossibility of engagement will be due to the fact that due to this flaring, the teeth will no longer be able to engage.

Transmissions are not included. Appears when the engine is running - the main problems

As you already understand, we will talk specifically about a manual “box” and about shifting gears (or rather, not shifting) on ​​it. I have quite a lot of experience in this area; I personally repaired cars such as VAZ 2114, VAZ 2110 (and the 10th family in general). To say that there are global differences between foreign cars, there really aren’t any! So if your speed is not cut off, then the reasons may be similar. In general, the article will be useful, at the end, as usual, there is a video...

A fairly large number of such questions come to me, especially from novice drivers of our VAZs! Especially with front-wheel drive, because in rear-wheel drive cars the lever was installed in the manual transmission itself. I want to answer everyone right away - the problem of non-inclusion may not always be cardinal! Often it’s a small matter, something just got loose or unscrewed from time to time, as a rule, this happens in 50% of cases.

Therefore, I will try to break the material into two large components - simple and complex faults.

I suggest starting with simple faults.

Reasons for complete jamming

There are not so many reasons for a complete jamming of the gearbox. One of these reasons is the destruction of the teeth of a gear. Broken tooth fragments can become meshed with the teeth of other gears, which in turn makes the gears unable to rotate.

It is also possible that one of the internal bolts of the box may rupture or spontaneously unscrew. In this case, the bolt gets between the gears and blocks them.

To check whether the cause of jamming is the destruction that occurred inside the box, simply drain the oil from the box crankcase and check it. The fact is that if any element of the box is destroyed, a large amount of metal shavings will get into the oil.

Knocks out the first gear of the VAZ 2110 reasons

VAZ 2110 gearbox malfunctions

• January 11, 2009

The VAZ 2110 has been produced for several years now, because all the “sores” of these cars have long been known, both to ordinary owners of “ten” cars and to VAZ itself. The latter seems to be trying to gradually solve these problems, but very gradually. But that's a completely different story, as they say.

In addition to the diseases themselves, their symptoms are also known. In this article we will provide a list of the main possible malfunctions of the VAZ 2110 gearbox and the symptoms by which you can at least roughly identify the problem without disassembling the gearbox.

Noise in the gearbox.

Increased noise during gearbox operation can be caused by the following reasons:

- wear of gear teeth - wear of bearings - insufficient oil level in the box

The first gear on the viburnum takes off when starting off

Chuciundrik, unlikely. Many people do. And the oil was changed. I drove almost 30 thousand km with the factory clutch. And there were no problems with engaging 1st gear. Then we rebuilt the gearbox and at the same time changed the clutch. Now I’ve been suffering for 3 thousand km. with switching on 1st on a warm engine. So my IMHO is the clutch.

But changing the oil is of course cheaper, so try it, it might help.

Guy on Kanaplin, fill the box with good oil.

This will greatly alleviate the problem, but unfortunately it will not completely remove it. I have a synthetic Shell 75-90 in my gearbox, but after standing in a good traffic jam, when the engine and gearbox are warming up well, the gears still start to “shut up” periodically :pardon: I don’t even know what the root cause here is - the clutch or the synchronizers: nea:

Added after 1 minute 25 seconds

most likely both :spiteful:

Viktor1111, what's the point of adjusting? No matter how you adjust it, the automatic will still return everything as it was. I could also understand the effect of adjusting the gear selection rod. When I overhauled the gearbox, only the main pair was changed. Then I adjusted the clutch cable and traction in every way. But nothing helped. Hence my opinion that the reason is in the clutch. It is in the clutch itself, and not in the cable.

Using this topic I would like to ask. No one will share a link where you could buy it either online or in person, but then only the Krasnodar Territory or Rostov-on-Don is a new type of checkpoint with GP 3.9 and reinforced shafts?

Check what kind of oil is in the box

Oil Lukoil TM-4 80W-85. Is this normal oil or is it better to change to another? I drove it for 4 thousand, filled it with a little more than the maximum.

check the clutch cable adjustment. The cable itself was adjusted two weeks ago. It turns out that they forgot to tighten the nut from the factory: spiteful: They save on everything. But the adjustment did not give anything in terms of changing the gear engagement: sorry:

Repair work

If the adjustment does not give the desired result, you will have to work more carefully with the box. A common problem is knocking out the gears responsible for speeds 1 and 2.

When dismantling, make sure that each individual fastener is in good working order. The latches are springs, of which there are a total of three. The first one is the longest, it is responsible for speeds 1 and 2. The second is medium in size, and its prerogative is 3 and 4 speeds. The third detent is the smallest, and its “guardian” is fifth gear.

Clutch basket

Over time, the clutch basket fails on all cars with a manual transmission. Sometimes it’s due to wear and tear, sometimes the petals or the so-called “spider” break. Let me start, perhaps, with the “spider”, this is a mechanically fixed release bearing on several extensions (done like this on some VAZs), if the extension breaks, then it cannot be effectively fixed to the basket - the gears do not engage.

Next, the petals of the box break, or they become weakened. This leads to the fact that it is very difficult, almost impossible, to release the clutch disc. Therefore, the “speeds” do not switch – we just change the basket.

Well, the last wear and tear is the basket disk. It has a metal disk inside, and over time, especially from high mileage, wear forms there. When starting, the car will shake, and if the wear is very large, the gears may not shift.

In any case, we need to change the clutch basket.

Messages 4

1 Topic by Ursadon 2015-02-01 18:21:12

• Ursadon
• Participant
• Inactive

• From: Novosibirsk
• Registration: 2014-02-15
• Messages: 83 Thanks : 25
• Auto: 21120

Topic: Resolved: 1st and 3rd gear slipping

There was a problem with the 1st gear falling out - if you don’t hold it at the start, it will fly out. Then the second one began to knock out. You can't hold it with your hand. An autopsy showed that the synchronous hub had died. As a result, I replaced: Rod 1-2 Fork 1-2 Locking rings 1, 2 Synchro 1-2 assembly

A week later it started to slip out of 3rd gear, and after another week - into 1st gear, you couldn’t hold it with your hand. The pillows are normal, I also installed a 5th mount - the engine sits firmly.

I myself understand that most likely the synchronizer has fallen apart again and an autopsy will show. However, has anyone had the same problem and how did you solve it?

Tomorrow or the day after tomorrow I’ll take it to a friend’s garage, I’ll take it apart

2 Reply from Goodfree 2015-02-01 22:40:02

• Goodfree
• New member
• Inactive

• Registration: 2014-06-18
• Messages: 82 Thanks : 8
• Auto: 21102

Re: Resolved: 1st and 3rd gears slip out

1st and 3rd gears were falling out. A friend changed the scene and became happy with life.

3 Reply from 7491cm3x 2015-02-01 23:08:44 (2015-02-01 23:09:56 edited by 7491cm3x)

• 7491cm3x
• Connoisseur
• Inactive

• From: Norilsk
• Registration: 2015-01-29
• Messages: 467 Thanks : 119
• Car: VAZ 2112 1.5l 16v

Re: Resolved: 1st and 3rd gears slip out

It was a little different for me: When changing gears, I had to press harder on the lever and shift more smoothly, otherwise the gear would not engage completely and would fly out. First gear could only be engaged through second. In addition, the lever itself dangled quite a lot and it was easy to miss between the first and third. Then I had little experience and I panicked, I thought the box was falling apart. Now I know that this is just a loose curtain. It was then that one master gave me valuable advice: the rocker is made in such a way that it practically never wears out, but there is one bolt on it that often unwinds - and right before my eyes this bolt tightens! That's it, the box works fine and I'm happy =)

4 Reply from Ursadon 2015-02-16 07:39:05

• Ursadon
• Participant
• Inactive

• From: Novosibirsk
• Registration: 2014-02-15
• Messages: 83 Thanks : 25
• Auto: 21120

Re: Resolved: 1st and 3rd gears slip out

Tadaaaam! Taki restored his swallow over the weekend.

I had to hang the box up again. It turned out that the teeth of the gears that mesh with the synchronous clutch were worn out. Just in case, I changed the 3-4 gear clutch assembly.

How does a manual transmission work?

A conventional manual gearbox consists of 3 shafts. These are the primary, intermediate and secondary shafts. The secondary shaft is located coaxially with the primary shaft, inside which there is a bearing into which the end of the secondary shaft fits, allowing it to rotate independently of the primary.

The intermediate shaft is a single unit with gears cast on it. It has a rigid connection through a gear to the input shaft, which causes it to rotate along with the gears of the gears.

Adjusting the gearbox, video instructions

If it is necessary to replace gears, bearings or other parts, the box must be dismantled. Usually in such cases, the VAZ 2110 gearbox is overhauled and elements that have failed are replaced. But removing the box is not always necessary.

It is known that the 10 has problems with gear shifting. In fact, the speed is knocked out.

To eliminate the problem, the unit is equipped with a special mechanism that allows you to adjust the drive.

The operation is performed in the following cases:

1. the gearbox was dismantled due to repairs, for example, replacing the input shaft bearings;
2. speed knocks out while driving;
3. Gears don't engage or disengage easily.

If such situations arise, then adjustments cannot be avoided.

Of course, performing this procedure is much simpler than dismantling work. The work is performed in the following sequence:

• At the bottom of the vehicle there is a nut in a bolt. This fastener holds the transmission linkage in place. The fastening element does not need to be removed: just unscrew the nut a little;
• to move the grooves of the rod and the slot of the fastening clamp apart, just use a flat screwdriver;
• the rod must be set to the neutral position. Then you need to remove the cover from the gearbox handle;
• then the lever is set in accordance with the template;
• at the next stage it is necessary to adjust the backlash of the rear vector rod;
• adjusting axial play;
• At the final stage, the fastening must be installed in place and tightened.

The first gear on the viburnum takes off when starting off

Lada Kalina. Jerking when starting off

Causes of jerking and vibration when starting off

In most cases, the cause of the breakdown is a malfunctioning clutch.

Correct diagnostics saves time and money, so do not rush to immediately begin repairing the clutch and replacing failed parts. First, use simple tips to eliminate malfunctions that may be associated with the fact that the car jerks when starting to move.

First, warm up the engine to operating temperature. Secondly, make sure there are no problems with the power and ignition system.

If after the work done the jerking when starting does not go away, then use the list of clutch malfunctions and methods for eliminating them below.

Deformation of the driven disk.

Replace the driven disk.

Jamming of the driven disk hub on the splines of the input shaft of the gearbox.

Clean the splines from dirt, remove minor damage with a file. If the splines are significantly worn or damaged, replace the transmission disc and/or input shaft. Before assembly, apply CV joint grease to the splines.

Significant settlement or breakage of torsional vibration damper springs, wear of windows for springs.

Replace the driven disk.

Seizures on the working surfaces of the flywheel or pressure plate.

Replace the flywheel or clutch housing and pressure plate assembly (clutch basket).

Loose fastening of the friction linings of the driven disc, severe wear or cracks on the linings.

Replace the driven disk.

Loss of elasticity of the spring plates of the driven disk.

Replace the driven disk.

Driving style

You need to start with the obvious things. If you are an experienced driver, then you yourself understand perfectly well that the car can jerk when starting from a stop if the clutch grabs suddenly. That is, if you release the clutch pedal sharply, then it is quite obvious that the car should move jerkily. In this case there is no malfunction, and this situation is quite normal. All you need to do is change your riding style. At a minimum, you need to release the clutch smoothly and add more gas. It will come with time. In order for the clutch discs to engage on time, you need to “feel” for the moment of engagement in your car. To do this, you need to engage first gear and try to move away without pressing the gas pedal. This way you can easily feel the moment the clutch discs engage.

This cannot happen in cars with automatic transmissions, because there is no clutch pedal. In such cars, you just need to smoothly press the gas pedal and not “rip” the car from its place.

External and internal CV joints

The next reason why the car jerks when starting off may be the inner and outer CV joints. Internal CV joints transmit forces from the box to the car's axle shafts, and then to the wheels, which makes them quite important elements in the suspension system. Considering that these parts are systematically subjected to heavy loads, they may fail. The presence of a malfunction can be determined by the following signs: The CV joint turns when starting to move, there is play. Because of this, the car may jerk when starting from a stop. On the road, the CV joint may knock. Moreover, the road can be perfectly smooth. When turning, you can hear the crunch of the outer CV joints; when they wear out, they can also turn and create jerks when the car starts moving. Outer CV joints most often fail due to driving on bad and uneven roads. It follows that the first malfunction, due to which the car jerks when starting off, can be the CV joints. They are the first to be checked at a service station when a driver contacts a mechanic with a similar problem. Replacing these elements is quick, easy and most often does not cost a lot of money if we are talking about a domestic car and not a rare foreign car. Moreover, some car owners can replace the CV joints themselves; for this you will need a pit in the garage, a small set of tools and new CV joints, which are sold in almost any car store.

Knocking out the speed

If it turns on, but immediately turns off, then the latch may be stuck in the squeezed position, so it no longer does its job. It is also possible that the spring that presses the ball retainer is destroyed. Without the force of the spring, it will not be able to hold the slider in the desired position.

If significant force is applied while shifting into gear, the shift fork may bend.

Poor switching may also be caused by incorrect installation of the gearshift knob. In this case, the rocker does not bring the gear to full engagement.

Synchronizers

If, when the engine is running, you do not engage gears, or shifts occur with VERY great effort and CRUNCHING! Then there may be a problem with the manual transmission synchronizers. Without going too deep, these are soft gears (usually brass or copper) that synchronize the shafts for soft and fast shifting. If they wear out, then shifting may disappear altogether! In general, we are definitely changing.