VAZ-2114 injector stalls at idle: main reasons, diagnosis and repair

VAZ 2114 is a restyled model of the well-known “ten” or “Samara”. This car became widely known, so this brand of five-door hatchback can be found on the roads today, despite the fact that this car was removed from the production line several years ago.

This car has an electronic engine control system. Many people know that an injector of this type often begins to behave unpredictably. This usually happens when going to idle. As a result, the revs “float”, and the car owner cannot understand what happened to his beloved vehicle.

It is very difficult to immediately determine why the VAZ 2114 injector stalls at idle. As a rule, this requires diagnostic measures, which are best performed at a service center. However, you can try to understand on your own why the car stopped working as it should. Therefore, it is worth listening to the opinions of professionals who have encountered such malfunctions.

Regulator XX

This is one of the fairly common reasons why the VAZ 2114 injector stalls at idle. Regulators called XX or IXX are special devices that help control engine speed at idle. For the power unit to function properly, some air must pass inside. It, in turn, is detected by the mass air flow sensor, and the fuel controller supplies fuel based on sensor readings. Also, the number of revolutions is controlled by the DPKV. But it is the XX regulator that is responsible for the air supply, regardless of the operation of the air valve.

If an IAC system is installed in the car, then, as a rule, the car owner does not need to warm up the engine for a long time before starting to drive. However, this type of regulator is not capable of self-diagnosis. Therefore, if it fails, the VDO VAZ 2114 dashboard does not notify the driver that this unit needs to be checked.

Relay

Often the cooling fan does not turn off due to a failed fan relay. It is installed in an additional mounting block “four”. This block is located near the front passenger's feet and is covered with a decorative trim.

It is not necessary to use a tester to detect its breakdown. It is enough to take a similar element from the owner of the same car for a couple of minutes and replace it with your own. If the fan operates normally, the relay has failed and needs to be replaced. It is inexpensive, and you can replace it yourself.

Self-diagnosis of ICC

To understand that this particular unit is the cause of a stalled engine, it is enough to pay attention to several signs:

1. The car's power unit stops working as soon as one of the gears is turned off.
2. The revolutions begin to “float”.
3. When XX is activated, the motor begins to malfunction.
4. As soon as the car owner starts the engine when it is cold, it becomes impossible to increase the speed.
5. When the driver turns on the headlights or other light optics, the engine speed begins to drop noticeably.

Hydraulic compensators for VAZ 2114 8 valves: installation, adjustment, replacement, additional lubrication

After installing the HA, the car engine begins to run much quieter, since the valves stop knocking. In addition, there is no need to periodically adjust the valves during vehicle maintenance.

The only condition that should be immediately noted is the need to fill in high-quality oil, since dirty oil can cause clogging of the hydraulic compensator mechanism. A constant supply of oil (under pressure) ensures uninterrupted operation of the hydraulic system.

How to fix the situation

There are several manipulations that will help solve the problem that the VAZ 2114 injector stalls at idle if the IAC is the cause. First of all, you need to disconnect the control unit from the power supply and disconnect the terminal. After this, you need to pay attention to the distance between the flange needles (or rather, their ends) and the regulator. There should be about 2.3 mm between them.

In the next step, the battery terminals are put back into place. After this, you need to turn on the motor for 10 seconds. In this case, automatic calibration of the IAC should occur. If everything is in order, then after this the engine will start normally.

However, this is not the only reason that the VAZ 2114 starts up when cold and stalls almost immediately, or speed jumps occur.

ADJUSTMENT

In any case, if a characteristic valve knock occurs in the engine, it is necessary to check the condition of the valves. In this case, adjustments should be made. To adjust the valves of the VAZ 2114, factory-made adjusting washers with a thickness of 3 to 4.5 millimeters are provided, the thickness changes every 0.05 mm. We make the adjustment as follows (you will need a special shim remover and washers themselves of varying thickness):

• Disconnect the throttle cable bracket from the valve cover;
• Remove the valve cover (two bolts);
• We dismantle the timing belt casing;
• We set the top dead center in the first cylinder of the internal combustion engine (there is a mark on the timing gear). How to align the marks can be found in the repair and operation manual. You can turn the camshaft clockwise using the camshaft bolt. But this must be done carefully and without unnecessary effort;
• We check the gap with a set of automotive feeler gauges between the pusher and camshaft cams 1 and 3 valves according to the timing belt. The intake valve should have clearance

0.2 mm, at graduation it is larger on average

0.35 mm;

• We remove the adjusting washer and look at the markings (thickness is indicated in three numbers). Using mathematical calculations, we determine the required thickness to adjust the gap and install the new washer in place. We immediately check the resulting gap;
• We turn the camshaft a quarter turn clockwise and adjust valves 2 and 5. After another quarter - 6 and 8, the last ones to adjust are valves 4 and 7, also after ¼ turn.
• After adjustment, we put everything back together in the reverse order, start and listen to the engine.

Cleaning the throttle body

First you need to disconnect the clamps that secure the hoses going to the remote control. You will also need to remove the pads from several sensors, or rather, the IAC (if any) and the TPS. After this you need:

1. Remove the accelerator cable.
2. Remove the throttle assembly itself and assess its condition visually. Such self-diagnosis will help you understand whether the VAZ 2114 injector really stalls at idle due to remote control.
3. Disconnect the IAC, which is located inside the throttle.
4. Assess whether there is accumulated carbon deposits under the sensor. If it is not in the chamber itself, this does not mean that it is also clean under the regulator. As a rule, all cars with decent mileage accumulate a lot of carbon deposits.
5. Clean the IAC needle using a specialized aerosol. You need to process all parts very carefully, and then wipe them dry with a clean cloth. You must act with extreme caution so as not to damage anything. Therefore, it is better if you have a compressor at hand.

If the Lada Samara has low mileage or the sensor has recently been cleaned, then problems may lie in other parts.

ADJUSTMENT

In any case, if a characteristic valve knock occurs in the engine, it is necessary to check the condition of the valves. In this case, adjustments should be made. To adjust the valves of the VAZ 2114, factory-made adjusting washers with a thickness of 3 to 4.5 millimeters are provided, the thickness changes every 0.05 mm. We make the adjustment as follows (you will need a special shim remover and washers themselves of varying thickness):

1. Disconnect the throttle cable bracket from the valve cover;
2. Remove the valve cover (two bolts);
3. We dismantle the timing belt casing;
4. We set the top dead center in the first cylinder of the internal combustion engine (there is a mark on the timing gear). How to align the marks can be found in the repair and operation manual. You can turn the camshaft clockwise using the camshaft bolt. But this must be done carefully and without unnecessary effort;
5. We check the gap with a set of automotive feeler gauges between the pusher and camshaft cams 1 and 3 valves according to the timing belt. The intake valve should have clearance

0.2 mm, at graduation it is larger on average

0.35 mm;

Air filter

If all the reasons described above do not apply, then you should pay attention to the filtration system. This unit also often leads to malfunctions.

On injection-type cars, filters are adjusted to an optimal and universal operating mode. This element is necessary in order to trap dust and dirt, but not impede the passage of clean air. Typically, small panel filters are installed in VAZs. They are considered more efficient and compact. However, cylindrical models are often installed in cars, which quite quickly cease to perform the task correctly. In this case, you will need a simple diagnosis of the VAZ 2114 car and replacement of the damaged element.

Elimination of lateral play

The lateral play is determined by loosening the camshaft up and down, for which one of the covers of the support cushions is removed. This play appears when the camshaft journals and the shaft bed support pads against which they rest are worn.

First, we dismantle both camshaft cushion covers and remove excess metal using an emery stone with a fine-grained abrasive. Its surface must be perfectly flat so as not to disturb the geometry of the part. An alternative is fine-grained sandpaper glued to smooth glass.

The pad cover is ground with an abrasive to reduce its depth, causing it to hold the shaft more tightly. To prevent the emery from clogging, it is recommended to periodically water it with water. After 1-1.5 minutes of processing, the cover must be replaced and tightened, checking for play. It is important not to remove too much metal as the camshaft will stop turning. After installation, it should move without play with a slight, so-called “velvety” force.

Next, the operation is repeated with the second cover of the support cushion, while the cover that was processed earlier must be removed so that it does not interfere with determining the degree of camshaft play. After the backlash is completely eliminated, both covers are installed and the engine is assembled. After starting the engine, the knocking should stop completely.

Video: A simple way to eliminate camshaft knocking on VAZ 2108, 2109, 21099, 2110, 2112, 2113, 2114, 2115.

Repair

For self-diagnosis and repair, the air filter must be removed. It is not so difficult to do this on injection-type cars. To do this, you need to open the hood of the Lada Samara and disconnect the DRV.

After this, all that remains is to find the screws (usually there are four of them) that secure the filter and remove them using a shaped screwdriver. After this, you can easily remove the filter. At the next stage, all that remains is to assess how dirty it is and, if necessary, replace this element.

Fuel filter

This element acts as a fuel purifier that enters the engine. If the fuel mixture contains a large amount of dirt, various impurities and particles that should not enter the power unit, this can cause many problems.

If the fuel channel begins to become clogged, the XX sensor will not be able to work correctly. Therefore, this will lead to the VAZ 2114 injector stalling when cold. If the problem is not corrected, the situation may only get worse.

Vibration at idle. At gunpoint - ignition

One of the main reasons for vibration at idle in an injection engine is incorrect operation of the ignition system.

Even in the case when the fuel-air mixture is supplied to the cylinder in the required quantity and on time, the passage of a spark, constant or periodic, will certainly lead to vibration. Moreover, at medium and high speeds the engine can operate stably, with nominal fuel consumption and good dynamics.

First of all, we check this:

Any gaps in spark formation will lead to uneven emission of exhaust gases; you can check this simply by placing your hand near the exhaust pipe of the muffler; the gaps will be immediately audible.

A good engine should have uniform exhaust

Breakdown in the high-voltage circuit. Initially, it is worth checking the high-voltage wires - they should not contact ground, both along the entire length and in places of contact with the coil and spark plug cap

Breakdown of high-voltage wires can cause engine vibration

Candles. Quite often they can malfunction at low speeds due to a breakdown in the housing. In this case, a dark brown or black coating will be clearly visible along the rim of the insulator from below - the first sign that the spark plug is breaking through to ground. You need to check each spark plug - while idling, you need to remove the caps one by one and listen to see if the engine operation has changed. Faulty spark plugs must be replaced (see “selection of spark plugs for the VAZ-2114 - parameters and clearances”).

We check the spark plugs by removing the caps one by one

Malfunction of the ignition coil (ignition module). In this case, you can check the functionality only by replacing the module or coil with a known working one.

Changing the ignition module

In addition to these problems, difficulties may arise in the operation of electronics; this mainly applies to injection engines. And only these were installed on the VAZ-2114, with the exception of the Samar-2 line being the VAZ-2115 - there were carburetor versions.

Replacing the fuel filter yourself

Before performing work, it is necessary to drive the car onto an overpass or pit. After this, you need to find the necessary filter. In this car model, it is located under the bottom of the vehicle behind the fuel tank, next to the muffler. After this, you should unscrew several fittings (pipes). It is best to do this using key number 19 M.

If everything is done correctly, the filter can be easily removed. You just need to remember which side it was installed on. After this, it is enough to put the new filter in the same place in the correct position.

If the VAZ 2114 stalls, there may be other reasons. Therefore, it is worth considering them in more detail.

Crankshaft position sensor

When the sensor fails, the speed on a cold engine fluctuates, and the operation of the motor as a whole is disrupted. The computer is not synchronized with the engine, which disrupts the supply of spark and fuel. If the speed starts to fluctuate, this is only the first sign of a malfunction.

You can only check the operation of the sensor using a multimeter, for this:

• Set the tester to a position with a maximum value of 200 mV;
• Connect the tester;
• Close the core with a screwdriver.

The readings of the device should be in the range from 550 to 750 Ohms. If any discrepancies are found, try cleaning the core and repeating the procedure; this may be the cause of the breakdown. Otherwise, only replacement.

Injection system

If you contact a specialized service center, specialists will definitely check this unit for serviceability. Therefore, when self-diagnosis, this is also taken into account. Often errors in the operation of the power unit are associated with hydraulics. Some of its parts may work correctly, but if the so-called coking of the injectors occurs, then problems cannot be avoided. As a rule, the cause of this phenomenon is low quality fuel. If it contains impurities that cannot dissolve, then all these particles begin to settle on the injection elements. In the first few minutes of engine operation, this problem becomes most obvious.

Although car owners often complain that the car stalls in neutral, engineers have not been able to improve the injectors. It is impossible to completely get rid of sedimentation. In this case, problems often arise not only with cold, but also with hot injectors.

Piston skirt: possible defects and their prevention

Many drivers, without even determining the cause of the knocking in the engine, believe that it is related to the valves.
But this is not always true. Any knock is better heard at the top of the engine, but we also look and listen to it from above. At the same time, forgetting that a metal engine perfectly transmits sound vibrations. That's why the most common problem is knocking engine valves. However, the knocks in the engine are different:

• the power of sound;
• temporary causal appearance (after using low-grade oil or fuel, etc.);
• dynamics of intensity (suddenly appearing or imperceptibly);
• frequency (voiced, unvoiced);
• cyclicality.

The likelihood of finding out the reasons for a particular knock using these signs is low, but they will still help in finding its source.

Other reasons

First of all, you need to understand that a lot depends on how cold it is outside. If there is severe frost, it is not surprising that an unheated engine will malfunction. Therefore, you have to constantly keep your foot on the gas pedal.

Sometimes the problems are related to the spark plugs. Therefore, it is recommended to check them. You need to understand that these elements do not have a long service life. Therefore, if the car has quite an impressive mileage, then perhaps it is the spark plugs that have become unusable. Soot may settle on them. This often leads to irreversible damage to the elements.

If problems arise specifically with the spark plugs, then you need to find the damaged one and replace it. To do this, it is not necessary to seek help from a specialized center. All necessary work can be done independently.

Problems with engine activation can also arise due to problems in the ECU. It is also worth checking the quality of all connections. There is a risk that the wiring of the VAZ 2114 injector has been damaged. Therefore, it is worth making sure that it is in good working order.

It is also recommended to pay attention to the vehicle's exhaust gas recirculation valve. In this case, a cold engine will stall. To correct the situation, it is enough to replace the faulty unit.

High engine speed at idle: injector

Engine speed and operation at idle actually means that air is supplied to the engine bypassing the throttle valve. In other words, at idle the specified damper is closed. Note that the normal idle speed for different units is about 650-950 rpm. In parallel with this, a common malfunction is that when the engine is warm, the idle speed remains at around 1500 rpm and above. This indicator is a sign of a malfunction that should be eliminated.

It should also be noted that the idle speed “floats”, that is, for example, it increases to 1800 rpm, after which it decreases to 750 and increases again. Very often, increased idle speed and floating speed are the result of the same breakdowns. Let's take a look at a gasoline-injected unit as an example. In such an internal combustion engine, engine speed depends on the amount of intake air. It turns out that the more the throttle valve opens, the more air enters the intake manifold. Then the ECU determines the amount of incoming air, simultaneously takes into account the throttle opening angle (throttle position) and a number of other parameters, after which it supplies the appropriate amount of gasoline.

Another case is when the engine keeps the idle speed at about 1500-1900 rpm, while running smoothly, the speed does not fluctuate. In this case, we can assume that the injector supplies enough fuel in idle mode that it is enough to operate at such high speeds. In other words, there is excessive fuel consumption. These features may be typical for some engines and absent for others, since there is a dependence on the design of a specific injection system (units with an air flow meter, engines with a pressure sensor in the intake manifold). It is obvious that air leaks are a common cause of increased engine speed or floating speed at idle.

Now let's figure out where excess air can enter the intake. You should look for the problem in four main directions:

• throttle valve;
• channel XX;
• device for maintaining “warm-up” speed;
• servomotor for forced increase in speed XX;

As for the first case, the opening of the throttle valve is controlled by the gas pedal. At idle, the engine should run without pressing the accelerator. It is worth considering that on many cars the gas pedal is mechanical, that is, it is connected to the throttle opening mechanism with a regular cable. If this cable is soured, kinked or overtightened, and problems arise with the mechanism itself, then a banal effect of pressing the gas pedal may occur. In this case, the engine will maintain increased speed, since the ECU believes that the driver is pressing the accelerator and the throttle is slightly open.

In the second case, excess air can pass through the idle passage. Such a channel is available on the vast majority of injection internal combustion engines. This air channel bypasses the throttle valve and is called the idle channel. The implementation of the circuit has a special adjusting screw. Using this screw, you can change the cross-section of the channel, thereby increasing or decreasing the amount of air entering the engine and adjusting the idle speed.

As a result, the ECU calculates the amount of air, reduces the amount of fuel supplied and the speed decreases. If the engine is cold, this channel is initially open. In this case, the ECU receives readings from the temperature sensor and enriches the fuel mixture. Problems with speed can arise either as a result of the failure of this device or after a malfunction of the temperature sensor.

The list is completed by a special servo device - the idle air regulator, which is installed in a separate air channel. This solution can forcefully increase idle speed. In various circuits, this could be an electric motor, a solenoid, a version of a solenoid valve, etc. The main task of such a regulator is to ensure a smooth transition of the engine to idle mode after releasing the gas pedal. In other words, the engine does not suddenly reduce speed after closing the throttle, but gradually. Another function of the device is to increase idle speed when the engine starts, and then smoothly reduce it to the required speed. The regulator also increases the speed after increasing the load on the internal combustion engine in idle mode (turning on the air conditioning system, heated seats or mirrors, high or low beam headlights, side lights, etc.). Failure of this device will naturally lead to an increase or floating of idle speed.

Diagnostic features

It is worth considering that there are no exact sequential actions by performing which it will be possible to accurately determine the cause of the malfunction. If the power unit stalls only occasionally, then the situation may not be that serious. There is a chance that this is how the vehicle simply reacts to severe frosts. However, if you have recurring problems, you should contact a specialist.

It is best if the mechanic connects a specialized diagnostic device to the car at a car service center. He will determine exactly where the breakdown occurred and which element should be replaced. Of course, if the car owner has enough knowledge, he can identify the problem on his own. But you need to understand that if such a diagnosis was performed incorrectly, this can lead to more serious consequences. In this case, the final repair of the car will be much more expensive. Therefore, you should think several times before saving.

Symptoms of malfunction

You can determine if there is a problem with the cooling system fan by a rapid increase in coolant temperature. A corresponding warning message appears on the vehicle's dashboard indicating an increase in coolant temperature. The car owner should turn off the engine and wait until it cools down, after which you can carefully continue driving. Remember that it is not recommended to operate a car with such a non-working fan, as there is a risk of damage to the cylinder head, which invariably forces labor-intensive and expensive repairs. Such breakdowns can also be detected by visual inspection of the radiator and fan. If, with a significant increase in coolant temperature, the fan does not turn on, this may indicate the presence of various breakdowns of this unit.

There can be several reasons for a fan malfunction :

• Temperature sensor failure.
• Lost contact at the temperature sensor connector.
• Broken electrical wiring.
• Relay problems.
• The fuse has blown.
• Fan motor drive malfunction.