Coolant volume VAZ 2112 16 valves


Antifreeze in a VAZ 2110: how many liters are needed and how to change it

Antifreeze is a special liquid designed to cool a car engine. It is poured into the expansion tank of the system, located under the hood of the car. The fluid requires periodic replacement, since after a certain period of engine operation it loses its original properties. Therefore, young car enthusiasts are interested in how much antifreeze is in the VAZ 2110 cooling system.

After a certain mileage and operation of the VAZ 2110 car, it is necessary to carry out a technical inspection, monitor the level of oil and coolant in the system. After a certain period of operation, all lubricants and coolants lose their original technical and operational characteristics and require replacement. Therefore, before replacing the coolant, you need to find out how much antifreeze is in the cooling system of the VAZ 2110.

Many inexperienced car enthusiasts, when replacing antifreeze or antifreeze in a car's cooling system, fill in 5-6 liters of fluid and make sure that it has reached the maximum level in the expansion tank, consider this sufficient and close the hood of the car. This is their big mistake, since the antifreeze has not yet had time to completely fill the system. You need to wait about five minutes until the liquid level in the tank drops significantly. Accordingly, you will need to add more coolant.

This procedure must be done several times, only then will it be clear how many liters of antifreeze are in the VAZ 2110 cooling system. It is necessary to add fluid until its level stops at one mark, which should be above the minimum and below the maximum level. Not adding enough antifreeze or antifreeze can cause the engine to overheat and fail. It is also impossible to overfill coolant, since when heated it tends to increase in volume.

After pouring antifreeze (antifreeze), you need to perform the following steps:

  • close the expansion tank cap;
  • start the engine and wait until it warms up before turning on the fan;
  • turn off the engine and let it cool down;
  • Check the coolant level in the tank and top up if necessary.

How to replace coolant (antifreeze or antifreeze) on Lada Kalina

In order not to overheat the engine, you need to monitor the coolant level - depending on whether you have antifreeze or antifreeze filled. Monitor the fluid level in the expansion tank, and also check the pipes and their connections, as well as the pump, for signs of leakage. Complete replacement of the filter according to the factory regulations is recommended once every 5 years or every 75 thousand km.

Which antifreeze to choose and what volume is needed

To completely replace the coolant in a 2nd generation Lada Kalina/Kalina car, you need 7.8 liters of antifreeze or antifreeze, depending on what you choose. Felix red antifreeze is poured from the factory.

To completely replace the coolant (coolant), we will need to purchase either one 10 liter canister or two 5 liter canisters.

Choosing antifreeze to replace

If red antifreeze was added from the factory, then we recommend replacing it with red one.

  • AGA 003Z (-40*) red 10l price from 1000 rub.
  • Professional Premium G-12 red 10 l price from 700 rub.
  • SINTEC LUX G-12 red 10l price from 1000 rub.
  • FELIX Carbox-40 (10 l) red price from 950 rub.
  • NIAGARA G12 (10 l) red price from 800 rub.
  • Arctic Circle G12 (10 l) red price from 700 rub.

What is needed for replacement

  • Container for draining old antifreeze for 6-8 liters
  • 16mm head
  • 13mm socket wrench for removing the starter on the 16 valve version of Kalina

It is better to replace it with a cold engine. Before starting the replacement, you should release the pressure in the system by unscrewing the cap of the expansion tank. In order to freely access the drain plug, it is necessary to remove the middle mud flap.

Instructions for replacing Coolant

On Kalinas with 8 and 16 valve engines, the coolant replacement is different. You can drain the old fluid from the radiator without any problems, but from the block on a 16-valve engine it is more difficult. You will have to unscrew the starter.

Replacing antifreeze on an 8-valve Lada Kalina engine

So, we relieve the pressure in the system by unscrewing the cap of the expansion tank. Then remove the engine protection to get to the drain plug.

We take a container with a volume of 6-8 liters and place it under the drain hole located at the bottom right of the radiator. To make the pressure weaker, screw the expansion tank cap back on.

Unscrew the drain plug on the radiator and allow the liquid to completely drain from the radiator.

Draining fluid from the cylinder block on an 8 valve engine

On an 8-valve engine with a traction drive gearbox, draining the old coolant is quite simple. The drain plug is located under the ignition coil.

Using the “13” socket, unscrew the drain plug, place the container and drain the liquid.

Drain the liquid from the cylinder block on a 16 valve engine

To get to the drain plug you will need to remove the starter. If you do not remove the starter, but unscrew the plug and drain the liquid, it will flow directly onto it, which can lead to failure.

Disconnect the wiring block from the traction relay on the starter. Remove the protective cap from the positive wire, and using a 13 mm wrench, unscrew the nut and remove the wire.

Now all that remains is to unscrew the drain plug and drain the coolant from the cylinder block.

After the liquid has been drained from the block, tighten the drain plug with a force of 25–30 Nm. We also tighten the radiator cap and fill the coolant through the expansion flank until it is full.

We start moving and begin to put pressure on all the pipes, thereby stimulating a better passage of antifreeze or antifreeze and filling the entire system. Do not forget to monitor the liquid level in the barrel, which should be between Min and Max.

How to determine if the thermostat is working

When the engine warms up, touch the lower outlet pipe. It will be cold, and then should quickly heat up, which indicates that the coolant has begun to circulate in a large circle. Keep an eye on the fan, as soon as it turns on and brings down the temperature, turn off the engine and check the coolant level in the expansion tank.

This completes the antifreeze replacement.

If the expansion tank cap leaks and does not hold pressure, it should be replaced

  • The lid will expand. tank 2108 2108-1311065 Automatic device - price from 130 rub.
  • The lid will expand. tank 2108 LUZAR LL 0108 price from 100 rub.
  • The lid will expand. tank 2108 Chistopol 2108-1311065 price from 70 rub.

After replacing the antifreeze, check all pipes for signs of leakage. If necessary, replace the pipe clamps.

remontautomobilya.ru

Instructions for replacing coolant

Most owners of domestically produced cars prefer to carry out repairs and maintenance of their own cars themselves. Therefore, inexperienced car enthusiasts are interested in how to change antifreeze on a VAZ 2110. First, you need to drain the used fluid.

Draining used antifreeze:

  1. First you need to install the vehicle in a place convenient for performing work. In this case, the car must be level, or you can raise its front part, but not the rear.
  2. The terminal is removed from the battery so that if liquid accidentally gets on the exposed wire, a short circuit does not occur.
  3. If the car uses an injector, the ignition module is removed, otherwise it will interfere with unscrewing the drain plug from the cylinder block.
  4. To quickly drain the antifreeze from the system, the cap from the expansion tank is also unscrewed.
  5. Now you need to completely unscrew the plug on the engine cylinder block using a spanner (spanner).
  6. When the liquid has completely drained from the block, it is advisable to wipe the engine with a rag, precisely those areas where the used antifreeze came into contact during the draining process. There is no need to screw the plug back yet.
  7. Now the radiator cap is unscrewed and the liquid is drained into a separate container.

How to drain antifreeze from a VAZ-2110 injector (16 valves)

Necessary tools and means:

  • keys for 10 and 13;
  • capacity for 8-10 liters (canister or bucket);
  • dry rag.

In order to drain the antifreeze, the VAZ-2110 (16 valves) needs to be driven onto an inspection hole or overpass. Further work is carried out in the following order:

  1. Disconnect the negative wire on the battery.
  2. We unscrew the plug on the expansion tank.
  3. We go down into the pit, use a 10mm wrench to unscrew the bolts securing the engine protection. We remove the protection.
  4. We unscrew the drain plug on the radiator, first placing a container under it. We wait until all the antifreeze in the heat exchanger drains.
  5. If in your car the gearbox is driven using a cable, before draining the antifreeze from the VAZ-2110, you will have to remove the starter. The drain plug is located directly below it. To do this, you need to disconnect the block of wires from the connector of the solenoid relay, remove the protective cap from the nut securing the positive wire, unscrew it, remove the wire, and then unscrew the three bolts securing the starter. After this, place a container under the plug, unscrew it and drain the coolant. If the gearbox is controlled by traction, there is no need to remove the starter.

Coolant filling procedure

It’s worth checking first how much antifreeze is needed in a VAZ 2110 for 16 antifreeze valves. After this, you can begin work.

  1. The coolant drain hose is removed from the throttle valve. To do this, you first need to loosen the clamp holding it. The hose should not be thrown on the ground; it must be suspended from something nearby.
  2. The liquid must be poured slowly and observed whether it flows from any hose. If there is a leak, quickly put the hose back in place. After this, add antifreeze to the required level and close the plug.

Necessary tools and materials for oil change

To change the oil you will need the following tools:

  • wrenches “10”, “17” and “24”;
  • oil filter remover;
  • wheel wrench;
  • containers for used oil;
  • gloves;
  • bedding on the ground;
  • rags;
  • new filter and oil.

Suitable components: Semi-synthetic motor oil “Lukoil Lux 10W-40”, (5 l) article number - 19299. Price about 1100 rubles. Original oil filter for the Lada engine 21080101200508. Price 180 rubles. Analogues: BM FO2108 – 140 rubles, JS Asakashi C0065 – 150 rubles.

Prices are current for the summer of 2017 for Moscow and the region.

1 Warm up the engine, warm oil will drain faster. We put the car on a jack and remove the right front wheel.

2 Find the drain plug and place a container under it to drain the waste. Unscrew and drain. At the end of the process, install the plug back.

4Remove the filler plug.

5You need to prepare a new filter, pour oil into it and lubricate the rubber gasket on top.

6Unscrew the old filter and install a new one in its place.

8Reinstall the filler plug.

9Start the engine and let it idle for 5-10 minutes. The oil should be distributed throughout the system, and the oil indicator (in the form of an oil can) should go out.

10Check the level. If necessary, add more oil. We changed everything, oil and filter.

All car owners, without exception, are well aware that the trouble-free operation of their car directly depends on the correctness and regularity of the relevant service work. That is why it is necessary to carry out such maintenance on a regular basis. Changing the oil of a VAZ 2112 in an engine with 16 valves will extend the service life of the engine and save the car owner from the need for complex, expensive repairs of the power unit.

Optimal coolant option

When you have figured out how to replace antifreeze on a VAZ 2110 (2112), it is important to choose the optimal fluid option. Many car enthusiasts only use expensive antifreeze, considering it to be of higher quality.

For VAZ cars, it is quite possible to use a cheap domestic product - antifreeze, the characteristics of which were developed specifically for these cars.

Owners of domestic cars respond positively to Felix brand antifreeze. It is sold in canisters of 5 and 10 liters, and smaller containers. It is profitable to purchase liquid in a 10 kg container - it is cheaper, and after replacing the used antifreeze, there is still liquid left for refilling.

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How much antifreeze is in the VAZ 2110 system

is a special liquid that is poured into the car’s expansion tank for cooling. It needs to be changed from time to time. After all, after traveling several tens of kilometers, antifreeze loses its properties. Knowing how much antifreeze is in the VAZ 2110, you can correctly replace the coolant and extend the life of your car.

Everyone knows that the engine temperature changes during operation. Antifreeze should maintain it at an optimal level. This is his main task, although not the only one.

A little about volumes

The cooling system in the VAZ 2110 is almost the largest in the structure of the car. The volume of coolant in the VAZ 2110 is second only to the volume of the fuel tank.

How much antifreeze should circulate

It is believed that the VAZ 2110 cooling system should contain 7.8 liters of antifreeze. This is exactly the amount of it that will ensure the uninterrupted operation of all systems at any time of the year.

It is this substance that protects the engine from overheating in the summer.

, which is fraught with boiling of the engine. If this happens, then you will have to spend a lot on major repairs. Although it is not a fact that in this case he will save the situation. At negative outside temperatures, antifreeze will protect the “heart” of your “iron horse” from freezing and all year round it will help protect the main elements of the car from corrosion.

How much antifreeze should be poured

The VAZ 2110 is filled with coolant as soon as the existing antifreeze begins to lose its properties. You can tell this by the color change.

When you change the fluid, do not think that five or six liters will be enough, since the antifreeze level has reached its maximum level in the expansion tank. But that's not true.

It is necessary to wait until all the antifreeze is distributed throughout the system. This may take a few minutes.

When adding coolant, make sure that it is not higher than the maximum and not lower than the minimum level. If there is not enough antifreeze, the engine will overheat. Also remember that when heated, liquid expands and therefore increases in volume. So it’s also not worth pouring antifreeze above the MAX mark.

Cooling system volume VAZ 2112 16 valves

Good day to all. This is my first entry in the logbook and let's hope it's not the last.

Once again I looked under the hood to check the fluid level, and was horrified: in the expansion tank, instead of the antifreeze I had filled in about two thousand years ago, there was some kind of brown, rusty-colored liquid.

I decided not to put this matter off for a long time and in the VKontakte group for the 10th family I began to wonder what the consequences of driving on such antifreeze would be. The answers were not encouraging: the radiator honeycombs would become clogged, the car would overheat, engine cooling would become worse, etc. Well, that means it definitely needs to be changed. And here the number of questions has increased significantly: with what and how to properly flush the 2110 cooling system, what to fill: antifreeze or antifreeze, if antifreeze, then what color: green or red, what are their differences and which is better for the 10.

Below I have prepared answers to these questions, which I read on websites, forums, in VK and which I derived for myself.

What to wash with.

You can rinse with all sorts of special liquids, which are sold in the store from 250 rubles per bottle, or you can use citric acid, in a proportion of 130-150 grams per 8 liters of water, as I did. The price of a 10 gram sachet of citric acid is 6 rubles. Coca-Cola is no help in this matter - orthophosphoric acid, which removed scale and rust, was excluded from its composition, so we leave cola to be used together with whiskey. I also read that some guys disconnected one pipe from the barrel and connected a hose with water under it. pressure, then opened the faucet on the radiator and the plug on the block and washed it in this way. I think that this is an ineffective method, since hot water will remove much more dirt, and a large circle will not be washed in this way - the thermostat will not open due to the low temperature of the running water.

Antifreeze or antifreeze.

This was a difficult question for me, but I gave preference to antifreeze - progress does not stand still, so I decided to use a newer development. Yes, and they encouraged comments on VK, saying that the frieze does not corrode as much as antifreeze. I haven’t looked at water at all and I don’t look at it at any time of the year, since it is because of water that scale appears, the entire cooling system rusts from the inside and the radiator honeycombs become clogged with the same rust. Antifreeze differs from antifreeze, but not as fundamentally as some imagine - the boiling point of the latter is higher and there is a story with additives, but in fact it is the same thing. If you are interested, google: the differences between antifreeze and antifreeze. Well, the price, accordingly, varies - antifreeze will be more expensive. Personally, in my area (Murmansk region), the difference between 10 liters of liquids is 200-300 rubles. Thus, if you have a leaky cooling system and you often top it up, then it’s better to use antifreeze - you’ll save your money, and if it doesn’t flow in three streams - frieze. Remember: you cannot mix antifreeze and antifreeze. Different colors of frieze are possible, but antifreeze with antifreeze is not possible.

Red or green antifreeze, their differences.

A friend from the Auto Store directly confirmed: only green.
After searching, I still found differences. I present a quote from one automotive website: “ Since antifreeze is an aggressive liquid, and especially its additives, they are designed for different metals.
In simple words, if you have more copper, brass and their alloys, then you need the red version, and if you have more aluminum and its alloys, then you need the green one. Of course, you can also pour green into a brass radiator, but this is not very correct, it will oxidize the walls from the inside, then a coating will form that will prevent normal cooling of the engine. That’s why car manufacturers write in the specifications which one should be poured and where, red or green. “Since 10ka has aluminum radiators in the cooling system, we choose green antifreeze. I also read that red frieze was already poured into Grants and Largus in 12-13 years - well, they poured and filled, you can pour red too - your car and you have nothing to do with it...

How to properly flush the cooling system and how to properly drain the coolant.

Everything here is simple, but, alas, not very fast: it took me 5.5 hours - this includes removing, straightening and installing the protection, that is, if we exclude this process, then 4.5 hours comes out. I will be sincerely glad if this process goes faster for you. What we need: - a hole - to remove/install the protection - 60 liters of water (regular, from the tap) - a couple of basins (you can get by with one) - a thick bag/film So, we drive the car into the pit, remove the protection, and while waiting for the old coolant in the system to cool, we begin to flush our flush: pour 130-150 grams of citric acid into a five-liter canister of water and shake the bottle so that the powder dissolves. That's it, the washing is ready.

Is it possible to mix

Despite the fact that classes G11, G12, G12+ contain ethylene glycol, different manufacturers use different types of additives. Therefore, I still would not recommend mixing even G12 and G12+. And even more so, you cannot mix G11 and G12 - a coagulation process will begin, which may result in a sediment in the form of flakes. The only thing is that if you have an emergency on the road and there is nothing at hand or in the nearest store, then you can mix G12 and G12+, as well as G11 and G12+, but under no circumstances should you mix G11 and G12! And as soon as possible, repair the car, drain the mixture, rinse the system several times with water and then fill in with fresh antifreeze. Also, if you want to switch from one class of antifreeze to another, then also flush the system before replacing. How I flushed the system, there is an entry in my blog.

What affects the color of the cooler?

It is worth making an adjustment regarding the color of the antifreeze - it determines the operating temperature regime. The composition of domestic production is blue or red. In the first case, the liquid ensures the car’s performance down to -40, and in the second, up to -65 degrees Celsius.

Foreign manufacturers, as a rule, use green dyes for G11 class coolers. The compositions of other generations are colored red, pinkish. This is done in order to actually distinguish silicate antifreezes from the rest.

So, when choosing a cooler, you can focus on its color:

  • red is fully compatible with copper and brass;
  • Green antifreeze is recommended to be poured into radiators on aluminum alloys.

At the same time, antifreeze does not provide sufficient protection for aluminum when operating at high temperatures. A rational alternative here would be carbonic acid compounds. These are classes: G12, G12+, G12++. They also increase the service life of the water pump (pump) by 50%.

Required amount of antifreeze for VAZ 2110

Inexperienced motorists often wonder how much antifreeze should be in the expansion tank of a VAZ 2110? After all, the amount of fluid will affect the performance of the engine and stove. Regardless of the valves, approximately 8 liters will be used.

Required amount of antifreeze for VAZ 2110

When antifreeze is poured into the tank, it may seem that even five liters will be enough, but this is not the case. It is necessary to fill to the maximum mark, start the engine and leave it on until the cooling starts working. In this case, the main thing is not to overdo it and fill the antifreeze gradually, and not the whole canister at once.

After the cooling is turned on, you need to turn off the motor and wait until the device cools down. You can check the fluid level to see if you need to add more or not. It is worth pouring antifreeze to the required level and the main thing is not to overfill it. The liquid must reach the mark, because if there is not enough antifreeze, the device will overheat and will not cool the mechanisms.

How to choose the right coolant:

  • Less expansion when heated;
  • Withstands enormous temperatures;
  • Takes on a gel form;
  • Protective barrier against corrosion;
  • Antifoam agent;
  • Lubrication of parts.

If we compare antifreeze and antifreeze, the second liquid wins in many respects. Because The water characteristics of antifreeze are better than antifreeze. The domestic analogue is considered the best means for cooling mechanisms in a car. Antifreeze is chosen not only for its water parameters, but also for its affordable price, which is many times cheaper than imported liquid. Therefore, if a novice driver does not know which product is better to choose, then it is worth stopping at antifreeze.

What kind of liquid should be poured into the cooling system according to the passport?

Open the hood and look at the expansion tank. We see a sticker on top: it says “TC Felix-40”. This means that Felix TC-40 antifreeze, produced in the city of Dzerzhinsk (Tosol-Sintez LLC), was filled with antifreeze.

There must be a sticker on the tank. If there is no sticker, we determine the liquid by color:

  • Green – as indicated above;
  • Yellow-green (light green), there is a fluorescent effect - CoolStream Standart 40 (Tehnoform, Klimovsk).

There may be a blue coolant, but like the previous two, it is a G11 class antifreeze. The red liquid belongs to class G12 - further on it says how to dilute it.

Work quality control

During operation, the engine generates a huge amount of heat. In this regard, the design of the car includes a cooling system. It also provides interior heating in winter.

Owners often forget about its maintenance. This fluid is a consumable item and requires replacement periodically.

Recently, the issue of using imported products on Russian cars has been discussed very often (for example, replacing antifreeze with antifreeze in a VAZ-2110). Some say it is harmful. Others say that nothing better than antifreeze has yet been invented and antifreeze is a thing of the past.

Is it so? Let's try to figure it out.

Required amount of coolant for VAZ 2110

After a certain mileage and operation of the VAZ 2110 car, it is necessary to carry out a technical inspection, monitor the level of oil and coolant in the system. After a certain period of operation, all lubricants and coolants lose their original technical and operational characteristics and require replacement. Therefore, before replacing the coolant, you need to find out how much antifreeze is in the cooling system of the VAZ 2110.

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Many inexperienced car enthusiasts, when replacing antifreeze or antifreeze in a car's cooling system, fill in 5-6 liters of fluid and make sure that it has reached the maximum level in the expansion tank, consider this sufficient and close the hood of the car. This is their big mistake, since the antifreeze has not yet had time to completely fill the system. You need to wait about five minutes until the liquid level in the tank drops significantly. Accordingly, you will need to add more coolant.

This procedure must be done several times, only then will it be clear how many liters of antifreeze are in the VAZ 2110 cooling system. It is necessary to add fluid until its level stops at one mark, which should be above the minimum and below the maximum level. Not adding enough antifreeze or antifreeze can cause the engine to overheat and fail. It is also impossible to overfill coolant, since when heated it tends to increase in volume.

After pouring antifreeze (antifreeze), you need to perform the following steps:

  • close the expansion tank cap;
  • start the engine and wait until it warms up before turning on the fan;
  • turn off the engine and let it cool down;
  • Check the coolant level in the tank and top up if necessary.

Reasons for leaks

Coolant leaks around the expansion tank cap.

There are many reasons why antifreeze can leak from the VAZ-2110 tank. If the car is operated correctly, then usually a leak can occur due to wear and tear on system elements.

  1. The system has rubber pipes, which, despite its density and resistance to aggressive environments, can last a long time, but in the process it wears out and ages.
  2. In this case, cracks are formed, which lead to air entering the system.
  3. Also, some of the antifreeze may be lost through cracks, and therefore this leads to overheating of the engine.
  4. At high temperatures, high pressure arises in the system, which pushes the liquid out through the plug on the tank.

Plugs or tanks

If the expansion tank on a VAZ-2110 was replaced, then the cause of the antifreeze leak may be a poor-quality tank or plug, of which you can find many on the modern market. If there are chips on the thread, this will not ensure tightness, so the antifreeze will leak out.

A crack in the tank made of low-quality plastic.

Thermostat and low amount of antifreeze

A small amount of antifreeze will not be able to provide normal cooling to the engine, and therefore the temperature will constantly rise. Also, a malfunction of the thermostat can cause the permissible temperature to be exceeded.

What to do if you can only fill 5 liters?

The liquid is most often sold in 5 liters, to make replacements you will need two canisters, the rest can be left to be added later, but there is no need to mix it with water in advance. After the process of draining the antifreeze, the tank will be completely filled after one canister. But the driver should not worry, because... All liquid can be filled in after full circulation in the mechanisms.

The liquid is always filled to the maximum, after which the engine starts and warms up to operating temperature. After which the engine must be turned off and the remaining fluid in the tank checked. Almost always it drops to a minimum or empties the tank; it is after this procedure that the remaining antifreeze is restored. In fact, not always a lot of liquid is good; it is better to add an amount that will not strain the car than to put an extra burden on the vehicle. In this case, this applies not only to coolant, but also to oil, which drivers sometimes like to fill in in huge quantities. The antifreeze should reach the average level, but no more; if you add an excess portion, then the driver will achieve pressure that will splash out all the necessary liquid.

There are situations when the valve installed on the plug does not work, this can easily rupture the tank. In this case, the temperature begins to reach its maximum point, and antifreeze is forced out. To do this, drivers are recommended to develop their own standard, which will perfectly suit the cooling process and will not displace antifreeze from the tank. Therefore, it is necessary to monitor the process of filling the liquid and not overdo the middle marks. You also need to make sure that the quantity is not small, because... a deficiency can also lead to failure to complete the relevant tasks. In this case, the engine can quickly overheat due to a lack of fluid in the car, which will lead to unpleasant consequences during the trip. The appropriate norm is 90 degrees for a VAZ 2110 car.

How to fix problems

Now let's talk about eliminating these faults according to the list presented.

  1. Coolant cannot disappear with the wave of a magic wand; it does not evaporate under the influence of temperature. Therefore, you need to check all pipes, hoses, clamps, radiator and other components. There is bound to be damage somewhere causing a leak.
  2. If in winter you have to stand still for a long time waiting for the engine to warm up, try insulating the engine compartment. There are many ways to do this - from the classic “sheep coat” for the engine, to using simple cardboard in front of the radiator in winter, or using special insulation. Be sure to ensure that your insulation does not touch the generator belt.
  3. In the event of detonation, we can only sympathize with the car, since its owner completely ignored all the signals from the car that the CO was in a faulty state. If the simplest repair measures give a positive result, consider yourself very lucky. If not, then engine repair cannot be avoided. And these are completely different amounts of money.
  4. When the sensor needle is in the red zone, immediately take appropriate measures. Turn off the engine to prevent excessive overheating from leading to even worse consequences. Raise the hood and check for fluid in the reservoir. Just don't open it, it's very hot in there. With a timely reaction, you can avoid boiling and whistling from under the hood. But it’s better not to drive to the service station on your own. Call a tow truck.
  5. Situations where engine head gaskets break are not uncommon. But we don’t want anyone to encounter them. Such a breakdown indicates that you must begin a full engine repair. On your own or at a car service - decide for yourself.

What are coolants?

“Anti-freeze” is necessary for effective engine cooling. They must have the highest boiling point, since in the summer the engine often overheats

In addition, in most of our country, in winter the temperature drops to critical levels; in order for the cooling system to function normally, you need to take liquid with a freezing threshold at the lowest possible temperatures, this is especially important in Siberia and the northern territories

To increase the effectiveness of anti-freeze agents, additives are added to them, which perform another important function - they help protect pipes, tubes, radiator and engine block from the aggressive effects of liquid. If you pour a composition of two components (ethylene glycol and distilled water) into the system, then in the next month you will have to change the entire cooling system and even repair the engine. Thanks to additives, which occupy up to 20% of the volume of any antifreeze, the composition becomes more perfect.

Stories from our readers

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Antifreeze is also antifreeze, which in 99% of cases consists of ethylene glycol. The name “TOSOL” was assigned to one brand of antifreeze back in the USSR, and so it became boring. That is, antifreeze is Russian antifreeze. Antifreeze, unlike antifreeze, can be diluted or a concentrate, which must be diluted before pouring into the car.

How to choose a high-quality coolant? Whether antifreeze is good or not is determined by its quality and set of additives. All properties of antifreeze depend on the set of additives. To avoid buying a fake, antifreeze should be purchased in reliable stores from good and well-known manufacturers. You can choose a brand based on a review of coolants, survey results or comments.

What color antifreeze should I buy? You can mix coolant of different colors. More details about this in this article.

How long does it take to change the coolant in a VAZ 2110? According to the regulations, it is changed after 5 years or 70 thousand km. mileage, in practice it all depends on the operating conditions and the quality of the antifreeze.

How to replace antifreeze in a VAZ 2110? Change the coolant according to these instructions.

So, let’s vote and leave reviews about antifreeze for VAZ 2110-12:

  1. What brand of antifreeze/antifreeze did you choose?
  2. What do you fill with antifreeze or antifreeze?
  3. How often do you change the coolant?
  4. Impressions and comments on antifreeze/antifreeze?

ps Off-topic comments will be deleted.

Which coolant is better to choose for the VAZ 2110-12?

How long does it take to replace antifreeze/antifreeze in a VAZ 2110-12?

What to choose, antifreeze or antifreeze for VAZ 2110-12?

Source

The design and principle of operation of the cooling system of the “tens” engine.

Any cooling system is designed not only to cool parts, but also to perform some other functions, namely:

  • ventilation and air conditioning, heating the air in the heating system;
  • cooling air in the turbocharger;
  • cooling the working fluid in the automatic transmission;
  • cooling the lubricant, or rather the oil in this system.

Design of the cooling system of the VAZ 2110 injection engine.

  1. Heater radiator
  2. Heater radiator steam hose
  3. Outlet hose
  4. Supply hose
  5. Coolant temperature sensor (in the cylinder head)
  6. Pump inlet hose
  7. Thermostat
  8. Charging hose
  9. Expansion tank plug
  10. Coolant level indicator sensor
  11. Expansion tank
  12. Outlet pipe
  13. Carburetor starter fluid chamber
  14. Radiator outlet hose
  15. Radiator inlet hose
  16. Radiator steam hose
  17. Left radiator tank
  18. Electric fan switch sensor
  19. Fan motor
  20. Electric fan impeller
  21. Right radiator tank
  22. Drain plug
  23. Electric fan shroud
  24. Timing belt
  25. Coolant pump impeller
  26. Coolant pump inlet pipe
  27. Coolant supply hose to throttle body
  28. Coolant drain hose from throttle pipe
  29. Exhaust coolant temperature sensor
  30. Radiator tubes
  31. Radiator core

The principle of operation of the cooling system of an injection engine.

If we talk directly about the cooling system of the VAZ 2110, then it is liquid, its circulation occurs forcibly, and is filled into the expansion tank.

The basis for creating the liquid used in this system is water combined with ethylene glycol. Such a liquid can freeze only at the lowest possible temperatures, and also create an elevated boiling point. By adding various additives to it, you can increase the service life of the oil seal, as well as slow down the process of corrosion of the system itself. Full filling of liquid requires the latter in a volume of 7.8 liters.

The movement of liquid throughout the cooling system of the VAZ 2110 injector is ensured by a centrifugal pump, which is fixed in the cylinder block and is activated by the timing belt.

As you know, the liquid gradually heats up from the friction of the working surfaces of the parts. And depending on the reached temperature of the liquid, the cooling system initially circulates in a small circle, and after heating it begins to move in a large circle. That is, when a certain heating point is reached, the thermostat is triggered, after which it opens and changes the direction of movement of the liquid. This process is already regulated by a pair of valves located in this thermostat. In it, the bypass valve regulates the movement of coolant in a small circle, and the main valve in a large circle. Thus, when one of these valves opens, the other closes, and vice versa.

Until the engine warms up well, the bypass valve is in the open position, and the coolant flows in a small circle through the cylinder block, throttle valve and heater radiator. This heating radiator is built directly into the engine cooling system, therefore, when liquid passes through it, the car interior is heated.

At the moment when the coolant is heated to 85°C, the main thermostat valve begins to open when the bypass valve closes. At this moment, the coolant flows simultaneously through both the small and large circles. And already at 102°C, the liquid enters the radiator, flowing only in a large circle. There, thanks to the flow of air from the outside, it is cooled.

It turns out that the injection system of the VAZ 2110 engine is designed in such a way that if the air flow does not cool the liquid well, then the fan is automatically turned on using a signal from the electronic control unit. And in the case of strong heating of the liquid, its volume begins to increase, and then its excess returns back to the expansion tank. This tank contains a valve that maintains the required pressure in the system.

It is necessary to monitor and check the coolant level only when the car’s power unit is cold. If you notice a regular decrease in it, be sure to check the entire system for leaks. Well, a complete replacement of the coolant in the VAZ 2110 injector must be done every 75,000 kilometers.

How to change coolant

Before replacing antifreeze, you need to know that this can only be done on a cooled engine. Antifreeze and antifreeze are aggressive chemicals that can cause harm to the human body, therefore, follow safety precautions and carry out all work with gloves. You can start the car after changing the fluid only after you make sure that the reservoir cap is tightly screwed on.

Drain the coolant

Many drivers are interested in how to drain antifreeze from a VAZ 2110 and do it quickly and correctly.

Before you start changing the antifreeze, you need to place the machine on a horizontal platform. And if this is not possible, then make sure that the back is slightly lower than the front.

  1. Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.
  2. Together with the bracket, remove the ignition module.

    Ignition module

  3. We unscrew the cap of the expansion tank, having previously installed a 10 liter capacity to drain the used coolant.

    Draining old fluid

  4. Drain the cooler.
  5. We wipe the cylinder block from any remaining fluid.
  6. We tighten the plugs of the radiator and cylinder block.

Filling with coolant

  1. Before disconnecting the coolant supply hose, loosen the clamp.
  2. If the engine is equipped with a carburetor, then you need to disconnect the hose from the fitting so that air can escape during filling.
  3. We begin to pour antifreeze into the system (about 7-8 liters will be needed) until its volume reaches the level of the upper line of the expansion tank fastening belt.

    We pour new antifreeze through the funnel

  4. Be sure to tighten the plug tightly, otherwise if the coolant boils, it may splash out.
  5. We connect the hose.
  6. We put the ignition system in place.
  7. Connect the “-” terminal to the battery.
  8. We start the engine and wait for it to warm up to operating temperature.

    Liquid level in the tank

  9. We look at the position of the sensor pointer and the level in the tank;
  10. After a few days, it is advisable to check and determine whether the coolant level in the expansion tank is normal.

What is antifreeze and what does Antifreeze have to do with it?

As soon as the first cooling system appeared, it was filled with the most accessible and efficient coolant on the planet - water. The water was good for everyone, but had one drawback. At sub-zero temperatures, it froze and, expanding, tore apart ancient cylinder blocks, radiators and heads. Therefore, back in the late 20s, they began to add ethylene glycol to the water, which did not freeze, but turned into a plastic porridge in the cold. There is little good in this, but there is no particular problem either - old cast-iron engines did not suffer from freezing.

Antifreeze or antifreeze, which is better?

Everything would be fine, but in the early 60s, engines with aluminum blocks and parts made of complex alloys began to appear. It was on these parts and on aluminum that ethylene glycol had a fatal effect - corrosion devoured not only new cylinder blocks, but also pump impellers, copper and brass elements of the cooling system. In the USSR they were not particularly worried about this, since all the cars had cast iron blocks and were not afraid of corrosion.

But then a problem suddenly appeared. During tests of the Fiat 124, the future VAZ 2101, it turned out that in the USSR there was no antifreeze suitable for the Italian engine. The Italians offered their liquid, but the union resolutely refused. In order to save scarce currency, the GosNIIOKhT Institute was instructed to quickly develop such a liquid for Zhiguli cars in order to overcome corrosion and establish production in the required volumes. Without thinking for long, the scientists added special additives to the mixture of ethylene glycol and water, which created a protective layer on the walls of the water jacket and did their best to protect the engine from corrosion.

Antifreeze was developed in the USSR specifically for the Zhiguli car.

There is only one conclusion from here - Antifreeze is an antifreeze that was developed in the USSR in the 60s specifically for VAZ and over time its name became a household name.

Cooling system malfunctions and ways to eliminate them

There can be a lot of problems with the cooling system. In most cases, this is due not so much to the reliability of the SOD, but to the low quality of the components. Typical malfunctions are as follows:

  • low coolant level in the tank due to broken hose connections or damage to the tank;
  • lack of pressure in the system caused by a failed water pump;
  • overheating of the liquid due to the electric fan not working normally - the electric fan, relay, temperature sensor are faulty;
  • failure of the thermostat - this malfunction can be determined by two signs: either the coolant circulates only in a large circle, or only in a small one, as a result the engine does not heat up or overheats.

It is recommended to regularly use the self-diagnosis mode to promptly detect temperature deviations and monitor the coolant level in the expansion tank.

Antifreeze leak

First you should check the coolant level in the expansion tank. If it is low, you need to inspect the engine compartment for leaks. Usually the reason for their appearance is a weak connection of the clamps, damage to the radiator or heater radiator. In all cases, replacement of elements will be required.

Antifreeze circulation in the system

To check the presence of pressure in the system, you should open the cap of the expansion tank and see how the antifreeze flows inside. Poor circulation may result from contamination of the SOD, in which case it will need to be flushed. Another reason is the failure of the pump, but in this case the timing belt is guaranteed to break, and expensive repairs of bent valves will follow.

The engine gets very hot

In most cases, the cause is a faulty thermostat. To check, you need to touch the lower and upper radiator pipes with your hand. If the top one is hot at engine operating temperature, but the bottom one remains cold, it means the thermostat is stuck in the closed position.

If it gets stuck open, the engine will take a long time to warm up. In the summer this is not scary, but in the winter it will bring a lot of inconvenience. In both cases, the thermostat must be replaced. The engine may overheat if there is an air lock in the system or the electric fan does not work. You also need to check the radiator - perhaps its cells are clogged with dirt.

Replacing the water pump

For convenience, it is better to remove and put the adsorber aside without disconnecting the hoses. The plastic cover on top of the engine and the timing belt guard also need to be removed. The further algorithm of actions is as follows:

  1. Use a jack to lift the right front side, thereby hanging the wheel; this will be needed in the future to install the marks.
  2. The wheel must be removed, unscrew the nut securing the crankshaft pulley and remove the pulley.
  3. Loosen the nuts securing the tensioner rollers and remove the timing belt.
  4. Insert a suitable block of wood between the camshaft gears to prevent them from turning.
  5. Unscrew the three mounting bolts securing the pump and remove the pump.

The new pump is installed in the reverse order; it is recommended to apply a small layer of silicone sealant to the points of contact with the block.

Radiator replacement

You should first drain the antifreeze from the system by unscrewing the drain plug at the bottom of the radiator, after placing a suitable container. Next, you need to drain the coolant from the block jacket. Further work is carried out as follows:

  1. Removing the wire plug and turning off the electric fan.
  2. Unscrew the two bolts on the left side.
  3. Unscrew the two nuts at the top and the bolt at the bottom.
  4. Now you can remove the radiator along with the electric fan, having first disconnected the lower and upper pipes.

The new radiator is installed in the reverse order; it is recommended to change the coolant.

Replacing the thermostat

Before replacing the thermostat, drain the coolant from the radiator and cylinder block. Now you need to loosen the clamps of the pipes going to the thermostat and dismantle it. The new device is installed in the reverse order; it is recommended to replace the clamps as well.

All this work, as well as replacing connecting hoses or the heater radiator, can be carried out in a garage. You don’t have to go to a car service center for this. Replacing a pump costs at least 800 rubles, a thermostat – 400-500, a radiator – 300-400. The amounts are not so large, but the work is not difficult. Do it yourself or use a service station - everyone chooses for themselves.

Antifreeze and its varieties

To understand what is better antifreeze or antifreeze, you need to understand what the latter is and what types there are. Let's find out! Antifreeze is a generalized name for coolant that came to the territory of the CIS countries from abroad. According to the specifications and markings, there are several classes of this liquid, each of which has its own characteristics and composition. A certain class is used for specific cars, so when choosing antifreeze you must be aware of its varieties. To simplify the purchase, I have developed a universal classification system that most manufacturers and buyers use as a guide. According to it, all antifreezes are divided into classes G11, G12 and G13. In recent years, intermediate classes have also appeared, for example G12+ and G12++. Let's look at each type of product separately.

Antifreeze G11

Such products are created using traditional (silicate) technology, and contain inorganic substances and their combinations as protective additives. This refrigerant is recommended for use in vehicles manufactured before 1996. If we talk about the composition, then the majority (about 90 percent) is ethylene glycol. The rest comes from distilled water and additives. The service life of such products is up to 3 years. This coolant creates a protective film on the entire surface of parts that prevents corrosion. Of course, this also has a negative effect, because a continuous film has an adverse effect on heat transfer. This film crumbles due to vibrations, and sediment accumulates in the cooling system.

Antifreezes of the G12 line

The next step in the development of coolants was the appearance of the G12 composition. It had a fundamental difference from its predecessor - the developers used organic acid technology. The base also remains ethylene glycol, but carboxylic acids are added as additives. Thanks to this, antifreeze creates a protective shell only in those places that are subject to corrosion. It has the following advantages compared to its predecessor:

  • increased heat transfer;
  • absence of sediment after use, since there is nothing to crumble;
  • service life has been increased to 5 years (subject to operating rules).

The product is recommended for use in cars manufactured after 2001. Classes G12+ and G12++ are modifications in which organic additives are combined with others (inorganic and mineral). There are no fundamental differences from the main G12. Here only the environmental safety of the composition has been improved.

Products class G13

This is the latest development, created in 2012. The main difference from all other antifreezes is the propylene glycol base. Unlike ethylene glycol, which is poisonous, this antifreeze is almost completely safe for the environment. This is where the differences end. According to its characteristics, the products are identical to class G12++. All presented classes differ visually in the color of the liquid, but there is no generally accepted coloring rule for all countries. When buying antifreeze, be sure to read its labeling and do not go by color alone. Now that you know the composition of antifreeze and antifreeze, you can move on to the most important question.

What are the differences between antifreeze?

Antifreeze consists of ethylene glycol, which is diluted in a certain proportion with distilled water. Unlike the imported product, it contains up to 50 percent water. Antifreeze is a concentrate that needs to be diluted yourself.

Externally, antifreeze differs in color. It has a bluish tint, while antifreeze comes in different colors. It could be:

  • Green (G11 group).
  • Red or yellow (G12).
  • Violet (G12+).

The characteristics of antifreeze can be compared with those of group 12 antifreeze.

Is it possible to mix

Despite the fact that classes G11, G12, G12+ contain ethylene glycol, different manufacturers use different types of additives. Therefore, I still would not recommend mixing even G12 and G12+. And even more so, you cannot mix G11 and G12 - a coagulation process will begin, which may result in a sediment in the form of flakes. The only thing is that if you have an emergency on the road and there is nothing at hand or in the nearest store, then you can mix G12 and G12+, as well as G11 and G12+, but under no circumstances should you mix G11 and G12! And as soon as possible, repair the car, drain the mixture, rinse the system several times with water and then fill in with fresh antifreeze. Also, if you want to switch from one class of antifreeze to another, then also flush the system before replacing. How I flushed the system, there is an entry in my blog.

About the level

How much antifreeze should I pour into a VAZ-2110? The maximum is not always good. This applies to both the oil in the engine and the antifreeze in the tank. It should be at the middle mark. If it is more, excess pressure will form in the system, which will simply force the composition out.

If the valve on the plug is not working, the tank may completely rupture. As temperatures increase, the liquid expands. Therefore, she needs to allocate a certain amount of compensation. But a low level is not good either. In this case, the tank will not burst, but the engine may overheat. It will operate at elevated temperatures. In the “tens” the normal range is 85-90 degrees Celsius.

When and what liquid to pour?

As you can see from the table, AvtoVAZ recommends filling in several types of oils and liquids. So let's figure out what liquid to fill and when.

Engine lubrication system

It is recommended to fill the Lada Priora engine with several types of automotive oils according to the SAE (American Association of Engineers) classification. In order to determine what kind of oil to pour into the engine, it is necessary to rely on the air temperature at which the car will be operated. The table below shows the temperature and oil used at a certain temperature.

Oil table depending on air temperature

Outdoor temperature SAE oil classification
-25 to +35℃5W-40
-25 to +20℃5W-30
-20 to +35℃10W-40
-20 to +30℃10W-30
-15 to +45℃15W-40

Location of expansion tank

A plastic reservoir for excess coolant is installed by the manufacturer in different places depending on the model of the “tenth” family:

  • in cars of the VAZ 2110-12 series, the reservoir is located on the left side (in the direction of travel) between the pillar glass and the wall of the interior partition;
  • in VAZ 2114-15 cars, the container is also located on the driver’s side, but is placed in front of the pillar glass.

The expansion tank is attached to the body elements with a clamp in the form of a flat rubber belt with a metal hook that hooks onto a protrusion on the side member. There are 3 hoses connected to the tank:

  1. A large diameter pipe leading from the thermostat is connected to the bottom.
  2. The upper tube of small diameter goes through the partition to the radiator of the cabin heater.
  3. The middle small tube connects the tank to the upper fitting of the main cooling radiator.

Each hose performs a separate function. The thick pipe serves to expand the coolant and fill the system while pouring antifreeze through the neck of the tank. Two thin tubes are designed to drain the steam-water mixture from the stove and the main radiator into the tank when heated to the maximum permissible antifreeze temperature of 95 ° C.

The expansion tank (item 1) is located at the highest point of the cooling system at the same level as the throttle valve

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