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Any car malfunction is a serious test for a driver of any qualification. And if the voltage of the VAZ 2141 on-board network drops, then this is one of their many. Electrical problems are further complicated by the need to have specific knowledge in this area. The complexity of such a defect lies in its multitasking. The functional dependence of many components of the VAZ 2114 does not allow us to immediately name just one single reason.
Low or unstable voltage on the on-board network can be caused by both failure of generator components and defects in the battery. It is also possible that the drive belt may break or at least weaken its tension.
This article is intended to understand all the intricacies of such a defect.
#24. Fighting voltage sag...
A common problem on VAZ cars is low voltage and large drawdowns when consumers are turned on (especially in winter) - I decided to somehow deal with this... This article by user Max147 helped a lot. I did almost the same thing with some changes...
It was decided to change all the supply wires - on rubber ones and with a much more powerful cross-section (KG cable) and terminals (more for convenience) and make additional mass from the generator housing to the body.
It was necessary to replace the ground wires:
-Cable KG-16 - 20cm -PVC pipe 15mm - 20cm -Tip TML-16-8 - 1 piece
Weight per engine:
-Cable KG-25 - 85cm -PVC pipe 25mm - 85cm -TML tip 25-8 90 degrees - 1 piece
Additional weight from generator housing to body:
-Cable KG-25 - 30cm -PVC pipe - 30cm -TML 25-6 tip - 1pc -TML 25-8 tip - 1pc
To replace the + cable on the starter and alternator:
Power cable to starter:
-Cable KG-25 - 50cm -PVC pipe 25mm - 50cm -Tip 25-8 90 degrees - 1 piece
Power cable to generator:
-Cable KG-16 - 130cm -PVC pipe 15mm - 130cm -Tip TML 16-6 - 1 piece
Heat shrink, electrical tape - always in stock
I lifted the lid up and the terminal loosened, lowered it down and it tightened...
The following diagram is standard for all wires
Same with the rest of the wires...
On one side there is a terminal and on the other there are lugs for fastening... This “set” will replace the standard “snots”
On one side there is a tip with a 6mm hole, on the other - 8mm. They say installing such a wire helps to raise the voltage a little - we’ll see...
I did more to calm my soul - the benefit is probably minimal... But who knows...
Then we measure the voltage, replace the wires with new ones and measure the voltage again... I didn’t take a photo of the replacement - so everything is clear, we remove the old ones and install new ones...
The terminals snap in place very well and don’t come off even if you pull hard... I liked it...
Well, the results of the measurements: I didn’t even look at the tidy - it was lying... The readings were taken by a bluetooth scanner and the OpenDiag program Bortovik staff showing the same data...
On a warm engine - without load (everything is off) and with load (heater mode 3, low beam, PTF, heated seats, mirrors and rear window are on)
After replacing the wires and installing additional ground from the generator housing to the body:
On a warm engine - without load (everything is off) and with load (heater mode 3, low beam, PTF, heated seats, mirrors and rear window are on)
As you can see, there is a sense - the tension has increased, but I expected more...
I also purchased the much-praised and many-criticized Three-Level Voltage Regulator 67.3702-02 for 285 rubles.
I’ve read a lot of reviews and now I don’t know whether to install it or not... Some write that it’s an excellent thing, others write that it ruins the gene... I’d like to ask anyone who has had experience with it - is it a useful thing or not?
Ready to answer questions and welcome comments
