Despite the huge amount of criticism against the Lada Priora, this is one of the most popular cars that have come out of the AvtoVAZ assembly line in recent years. The Priora is equipped with a fairly successful engine with good dynamics, and the interior is very comfortable. And the maximum trim levels offer useful options. But at the same time, from time to time the car brings minor problems to its owners. One of the most popular malfunctions is that the Priora engine (16 valves) is tripping. The reasons for this phenomenon are quite unpleasant. And besides, the motor eventually overheats.
When the driver starts his car in the morning, the engine does not run smoothly as before, but intermittently. At this time, dull sounds are heard from the exhaust pipe. At the same time, a persistent and strong smell of unburned fuel is felt. Vibrations are constantly increasing, and this is fraught with cracks in the pillows. This is how the engine runs when cold.
Causes
The LADA PRIORA engine has problems with the 16 valve injector for various reasons. To find out the specifics, the motorist needs to know the design features of the power unit, as well as have some vehicle repair skills.
Lada Priora 16 valves.
So, LADA PRIORA has 16 valves and a triple engine, what could be the reasons for the effect:
- Poor quality fuel.
- Malfunction in fuel supply elements.
- Malfunction of air intake units.
- Malfunction in the ignition system.
- The problem lies in the electronic part of the car.
Lada Priora stalls when cold and check light flashes: reasons, repairs
Despite the fact that the Lada Priora 16 valves has many defects, this particular model is the most successful of the many varieties of VAZ. Among the most significant advantages are the following:
- dynamism;
- comfort;
- moderate fuel consumption.
However, this model also brings some problems to its owners, for example, the engine is difficult to start or immediately stalls, and the smell of gasoline is clearly felt even inside the cabin. But the most common problem, according to car owners, is that the Priora stalls when cold, as a result of which the engine quickly overheats. That is, if a car owner starts his car, and the engine begins to work with so-called interruptions, while specific sounds are heard from the exhaust pipe and a strong smell spreads from gasoline that has not burned completely, these reasons will indicate that the engine is running cold. You can fix this type of breakdown yourself, but in order for the repair work to be done correctly, experts recommend fixing the breakdown step by step.
What is the danger of this defect?
Having discovered that the engine begins to stall, this defect must be eliminated as quickly as possible, despite the fact that signs of malfunction may disappear after re-gassing. The fact is that such a malfunction can reduce engine power, which will lead to an emergency on the road. After all, every car owner relies on the power of his engine, especially when overtaking, and since the power of the power unit will be reduced, the car simply will not have enough dynamics to complete overtaking, especially in severe frost and ice on the road. Only timely car repairs and finding out the cause of the breakdown will help to avoid a deplorable situation.
Poor quality gasoline
Troubleshooting on all VAZs can primarily occur if low-quality fuel gets into the air-fuel mixture formation system. Thus, most domestic gas stations do not have a very good reputation due to the fact that they sell fuel that does not meet the standards.
Problems with car tripping are often hidden in low-quality fuel.
So, if gasoline has already entered the system, it most likely clogged the gasoline supply system, and possibly left its mark on the spark plugs. In the worst case, what all car enthusiasts fear is burnout of the valves or piston mechanism.
Therefore, it is better to take the choice of a gas station seriously, since major engine repairs will cost more than saving on good gasoline. It is recommended to overpay a little for fuel, to regularly change fuel cells and carry out constant repairs.
Misfires: causes and troubleshooting
One of the most annoying problems in operating an internal combustion engine is misfire. This is the moment when one of all the cylinders does not work due to problems in the ignition system. There is an opinion that it is incredibly difficult to determine the causes of this problem, but misfires must be eliminated. When the fuel fails to ignite, one cylinder fails, which significantly affects engine power—25% of the power unit’s potential is lost. The remaining three cylinders (if we are talking about a four-cylinder engine) are forced to work for themselves and for that guy, so fuel consumption increases noticeably. In addition, a unit with a misfire starts poorly, trembles at idle and stalls under excessive loads. These are the unpleasant consequences of misfire.
It is worth noting that the ignition can be skipped either constantly or at certain intervals, or even chaotically. If a constant misfire occurs, one cylinder simply refuses to fire. If there is chaotic operation of the fuel ignition system, the cylinder may turn on and then skip its turn again. This causes very unpleasant fluctuations in speed, serious jerks when the cylinder is suddenly connected. The engine may also stall when the cylinder refuses to fire under load. It is imperative to deal with this problem and not let it take its course.
Constant misfire in one cylinder - we study and correct the problem
It is worth considering three options for the reasons for constant misfire. The first option is a lack of spark, which can also be caused by a number of factors. The second feature of the problem is poor compression in the cylinder. This usually happens after repair work has been completed or at a time when the engine requires overhaul.
You can also consider a third option for the lack of fuel combustion - low quality of the fuel mixture itself. In this case, it is worth changing the gas station and taking obviously good gasoline or diesel, filling the tank with good fuel and driving a few kilometers. However, with bad fuel the engine may not start at all, but misfires are most often worth diagnosing from the following components:
- spark plugs - a faulty spark plug is the most common problem of poor fuel ignition;
- broken high-voltage wires can also be a definite cause of such an unpleasant problem with your car;
- problems in the electronic ignition control or mechanical system (Hall sensor);
- depressurization of one of the cylinders, decreased compression and lack of fuel ignition for this reason;
- too much wear on the cylinder due to uneven loads or simply too much wear on the engine;
- the ignition modules in each car have their own design and differ in many respects, they are also worth checking;
- it is necessary to adjust the ignition at the service in order to accurately understand that this factor does not cause a problem;
- sometimes the reasons may lie deeper and go into the diagnostic field of an exclusively professional service.
Despite the wide range of possible problems, you can check almost all the popular factors for failure of the ignition system in your own garage. To do this, you do not need to use the services of a professional, unless you own an incredibly modern Japanese vehicle, in which it is not so easy to even open the hood yourself.
If the problem was not discovered on your own, you will have to contact a service center and pay for professional diagnostics. In this case, you will be able to detect and fix the problem quickly enough, and also receive a guarantee from specialists that this situation will not happen again in the near future. True, the services are also different, and not every company will help you efficiently fix problems with your car.
Temporary or interval shutdown of the ignition on one cylinder
The problem of constant ignition failure is fraught with the fact that one cylinder from the total set in the car does not work. In this case, the engine shakes, this is very noticeable, power is lost and fuel consumption increases. But if the ignition failures are not permanent, but temporary, the problem may be perceived somewhat differently and interpreted by the service as a problem with another component.
If while driving you experience a periodic sharp decrease in power and an inexplicable increase, most likely, we are talking about a temporary shutdown of one of the cylinders. This possibility exists for all the reasons listed above, but not with the final failure of any unit, but with its initial breakdown. In this case, the symptoms of trouble with the car will be as follows:
- poor engine starting and operation of three cylinders on a cold car, connection of the fourth cylinder on a hot engine;
- temporary shutdown of one cylinder with a characteristic decrease in speed and loss of power;
- very high fuel consumption and deterioration of the engine oil due to the constant ingress of gasoline into it;
- decreased reliability of engine operation, the unit may stall without any particular reason in any conditions;
- a special manifestation of problems during the cold season or under high loads on the power unit;
- decreased traction and increased engine wear due to the need for constant operation under load;
- fluctuations in idle speed, serious jerks during smooth movement in city mode.
As soon as such troubles happen to your car, you need to go to a service station and have the ignition system diagnosed. A temporary failure of one of the cylinders most often becomes a harbinger of large expenses for major engine repairs. That is why many owners prefer in this case to put the car in order as much as possible and sell the vehicle to another owner.
If you want to correct the situation and repair your car, be prepared for unexpected high service costs. However, in the worst case scenario, you can purchase a complete engine from disassembly without spending too much money on this process. In this case, you can update the potential of your car’s power unit and extend the life of the car for several more years. Engine operation during a misfire looks something like the following video:
Let's sum it up
Misfires can be either a harmless indicator of a failed spark plug or a serious demonstration of the need for professional intervention in the power unit system. With the help of professional diagnostics, you can find out the source of the problem and get more information on how to solve this problem. Despite many difficulties in the process of finding an ignition problem, this problem can often be solved independently without any problems.
But if we are talking about increased wear of the power unit and poor compression in the engine, you will have to spend money on repairs by performing a major restoration of the most expensive component in your car. It is especially problematic to find and fix ignition problems in modern German or Japanese cars. These are machines that contain advanced technology and will become a truly difficult object to carry out repair work without special skills and special equipment. Have you ever tried to fix ignition problems yourself?
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Fuel cells
The first place a motorist should start looking for a problem is the fuel supply to the fuel mixture formation system. Often, clogging of elements can cause an insufficient amount of fuel to flow into the combustion chambers.
First, we check the operation of the fuel pump, or more precisely, an element such as a mesh filter. It is located on the pump itself and often becomes clogged due to the use of low-quality fuel. But, as soon as it is changed, the operation of the power unit returns to normal.
The problem may be caused by a malfunction of one of the fuel cells.
It is recommended to replace the fuel filter along with the filter screen of the gasoline pump, since in this case it becomes clogged and fuel cannot fully pass through the fuel lines. The part is placed under the rear right wheel from the bottom. The element is changed within 30 minutes.
The third element, which is responsible for supplying the fuel mixture, is the injectors. Their contamination leads to the fact that the engine begins to stall. In order to check their functionality, it is necessary to remove the elements from the engine.
Diagnostic operations are carried out on a special washing stand. If during the inspection it is discovered that there are faulty injectors, then they should be replaced. You should not install faulty parts in the power unit, as this will lead back to tripping and even greater malfunctions than the existing ones.
The engine stalls, the check light flashes or lights up: the main reasons
Let's start with the fact that injection engines are equipped with special catalyst devices for cleaning the exhaust. At the same time, the catalytic converter is a rather vulnerable and at the same time expensive element, and all sorts of malfunctions in the engine create a risk of damage.
As a rule, the check flashes when there is a risk of damage to the catalyst. In this case, the simultaneous tripping of the engine means that one or more cylinders are not working or are not working correctly. In practice, this means that the fuel in the problem cylinder does not burn completely, after which it enters the exhaust system.
As a result, the remaining unburnt fuel burns out in the area where the catalyst is located, since the temperatures there are very high. Fuel also gets on the catalyst itself, causing it to fail.
It should be added that the check also often lights up in the event of failure of any ECM sensors. One way or another, it is quite obvious that the “check” in the vast majority of cases indicates either problems with the electronic engine control system itself, or the risk of damage to the catalyst due to malfunctions of the internal combustion engine.
It is important to understand that the engine tripping indicates a non-functioning cylinder. In this case, the check is flashing not due to the failure of any ECM sensor, malfunction of the exhaust gas recirculation system or poor fuel in the tank, but rather signals to the driver about a direct threat to the catalyst
In a nutshell, fuel that is not burned and gets into the outlet causes a special sensor (lambda probe, oxygen sensor) to send readings to the ECU indicating deviations from the norm. The control unit begins to try to correct the situation, but taking into account the tripping, it is simply not able to adjust the operation of the motor so that everything returns to normal. As a result, fuel consumption increases, while the engine operates unstably, idle speed fluctuates, etc. In some cases, the motor “falls” into emergency mode.
This feature of engine operation is primarily aimed at preventing burnout or melting of the catalyst. The catalyst itself consists of small honeycomb cells. If unburned fuel intensively enters the exhaust and burns out in the catalyst, the element will simply melt.
This melting will lead to the fact that exhaust gases will not be able to pass normally through the catalyst, that is, a plug appears in the exhaust pipe. Naturally, the engine will “suffocate”, power will drop, the engine may not start at all, etc.
Also, the catalyst will no longer be able to clean the exhaust, and toxicity will increase. There is only one way out in this situation - repairing the engine to eliminate the main cause of the engine tripping, and only then replacing the expensive catalyst with a new one. To minimize risks, a special program is programmed into the ECU, which involves operating the engine in emergency mode.
Air supply
Normal air supply is the key to the formation of an air-fuel mixture and a normal combustion process. Thus, a malfunction of one or more air supply elements can lead to the engine starting to choke. These include the air filter and throttle valve.
Contamination of air elements is the reason why a car stalls..
The air filter element must be changed every 20,000 km, since after this it becomes clogged and becomes unusable.
But it is necessary to monitor the condition of the throttle valve, since it is unknown when it will become clogged and begin to cause problems. Typically, motorists clean this unit themselves, using special products or a carburetor cleaner.
Ignition system
One of the options for why the tripping occurred is a problem with sparking. So, failure of a spark plug or one of the high-voltage wires leads to the fact that the engine begins to stall. Therefore, it is necessary to diagnose these elements for operability.
Electronic problems can also cause tripping.
Another structural element that needs to be checked is the injector, since the problem may be hidden in this element.
Last but not least, the electronics are where faults occur. So, a problem with sensors or the electronic control unit of the power unit can cause tripping.
To carry out repair and diagnostic operations, you will need not only standard tools, but also a diagnostic laptop PC, as well as a cable connecting to the ECU - K-line.
After connection and synchronization, you can determine what errors exist, or perhaps one of the sensors responsible for the normal operation of a particular node has failed. After the repair, it is recommended to reset all accumulated errors.
Is it possible to drive a car if the engine is not working? Consequences.
One of the most common engine malfunctions is the failure of one or more cylinders. In this case, the engine idles unstably, increased vibration is observed, and an uneven sound of exhaust gases is heard from the exhaust pipe. But just based on these signs alone, it is impossible to reliably say that the engine is malfunctioning; to determine this malfunction, there is one reliable method, which almost all motorists know about. This is alternately turning off the cylinders and monitoring the engine speed. If, after we turned off the cylinder, the revolutions did not change, then this cylinder is not working. In the same way, you can determine the balance of torque among the cylinders, that is, the uniformity of their operation.
If we determine that one of the engine cylinders is not working, but at the moment for some reason we cannot correct this malfunction, then is it possible to continue driving the car, what harm can be caused to the engine.
In a four-cylinder engine, the load is divided between 4 pistons. If one of them stops working with everything or produces less torque, then the load is distributed over the other three. That is, if to maintain the required engine power, 25% of each cylinder was required, then if one stops working, these 25% are distributed among the others and the result is 33% for each. In order to maintain engine power at a certain level, you need to increase the torque in the remaining working cylinders; to do this, you need to supply more air-fuel mixture to them. Fuel consumption and load on them will increase. Therefore, prolonged driving with one cylinder not working increases engine wear.
But in order to understand what exactly can happen to a cylinder that is not working, you need to know what kind of malfunction has occurred in it. If, for example, a valve in it has burned out, then prolonged driving with such a malfunction can lead to the fact that as a result of the flammable mixture escaping through leakage, the seat can also burn out, and in the future you will have to not only replace the valve, but also possibly the head. That is, repairs will be much more expensive.
In modern engine management systems, the fuel supply from the injector to the idle cylinder is turned off. After all, if a large amount of unburnt fuel-air mixture gets into the catalyst, this can damage it. Some of the gasoline may condense on the cylinder walls and wash away the oil film, which will lead to increased wear and dilution of the oil. Therefore, if the controller program does not provide for turning off the fuel supply, then prolonged driving with an inoperative cylinder can lead to all of the above malfunctions.
If the cylinder does not work because the high-voltage wire or spark plug is faulty, this can lead to failure of the ignition coil. Therefore, in this case, it is also necessary to correct the malfunction as quickly as possible.
In general, the answer to the question of whether it is possible to drive a car if the engine is not working depends on what malfunction caused it. But in all these cases you need to move without putting high speeds and loads on the engine.
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Conclusion
The causes and methods of eliminating the malfunction of tripping valves on Lada Priora 16 valves are considered. If the problem still cannot be resolved, then it is recommended to contact a car service so that professionals can sort it out. Maybe it's time to replace the valves or rebuild the engine.
Despite the huge amount of criticism against the Lada Priora, this is one of the most popular cars that have come out of the AvtoVAZ assembly line in recent years. The Priora is equipped with a fairly successful engine with good dynamics, and the interior is very comfortable. And the maximum trim levels offer useful options. But at the same time, from time to time the car brings minor problems to its owners. One of the most popular malfunctions is that the Priora engine (16 valves) is tripping. The reasons for this phenomenon are quite unpleasant. And besides, the motor eventually overheats.
When the driver starts his car in the morning, the engine does not run smoothly as before, but intermittently. At this time, dull sounds are heard from the exhaust pipe. At the same time, a persistent and strong smell of unburned fuel is felt. Vibrations are constantly increasing, and this is fraught with cracks in the pillows. This is how the engine runs when cold.
Replacing spark plugs yourself
Replacing spark plugs on a Lada
Since faulty spark plugs occur most often during acceleration failures, auto mechanics recommend Lada Priora owners learn how to change this element of the ignition system themselves. This should be done after the car has traveled 20 thousand km. However, if the engine starts to trip, the spark plugs should be replaced before this date:
- Initially, you will need to clean the engine compartment from dirt and debris,
- Next, it is necessary to dismantle the engine elements to gain unhindered access to the spark plugs. Adapters and extensions are used for this. Before performing this work, you will need to wait until the engine has completely cooled down.
- The spark plugs are unscrewed one by one, and the high-voltage wires are disconnected. To prevent an accident, you must first remove the battery from the car. Otherwise, electricity may be supplied. When performing this procedure, it is recommended to monitor the force applied. It is better to seek help from specialists if the candle does not budge.
- To prevent debris from getting into the resulting holes, you need to cover them,
- The candles are screwed in manually at the first stage. Next, they are tightened using a special mechanism that allows you to measure the amount of force applied,
- high voltage wires are connected,
- engine operation is checked,
- The previously dismantled elements are assembled in the reverse order.
To ensure stable engine operation, spark plugs should be replaced regularly.
Lada Priora is the leader among domestic cars; sales of modern vehicles are breaking records. Among the advantages of the Priora, the owners note a good engine, which has better dynamics compared to other Lada models; the interior is also very comfortable. However, it is not without problems, for example, an engine designed for 8 or 16 valves often suffers from problems.
Trouble the engine: why is it dangerous?
This is a rather critical phenomenon, especially if the unit begins to vibrate during acceleration.
Considering that the Lada Priora has been manufactured since 2007, there are often instances where the engine knocks like on an old car 20 years ago. This is an engine running on three cylinders. It may have the latest firmware, but if the engine of a Lada Priora car is running rough and the check light is on, then such a car will not have much life left.
Supply system
If the Priora engine (16 valves) is tripping, the reasons may be trivial. When there is no flash in the cylinder, perhaps there is simply no fuel there. If it has a normal compression ratio, it is worth diagnosing the power system. You should pay maximum attention to the air filter and the pipe. It is necessary to make sure that the clamps are securely tightened, whether the purifier body itself is intact, and whether there is any air leakage from the outside. Also pay attention to the tubes. They must be tightly secured to the throttle assembly. Fuel leaks, cracks, and broken plastic may indicate that some parts are faulty.
Nozzle failures, clogging
When the Priora engine (16 valves) fails, the reasons often lie in the injector.
It may be faulty or simply blocked. Beginners and those who like to pour various injector cleaning fluids into the tank often encounter this problem. All this leads to the fact that the dirt first peels off in the tank, then in the fuel line. And eventually it will end up in the injectors, where it will happily get stuck.
Diagnostics of spark plugs by plaque
When the engine starts cold or hot, you can check the carbon deposits on the spark plugs. If the coating is white, then this indicates a lean mixture and overheating of the engine. A black tint indicates a rich mixture. In both the first and second cases there are problems with the operation of the electronics. This is either installing new firmware, or replacing the ECU. A normal candle has a brick color. By the way, the engine may stall at idle if the part is damp. This also significantly increases the warm-up time. In addition to the spark plugs, the ignition coil may also be acting up. Priora (8 valves) is equipped with distributor ignition. Overheating of the coil is often observed. You can restore the operation of the motor by simply replacing the element.
An example of computer diagnostics of a VAZ 2110
Many people believe that diagnosing a VAZ or foreign car is not a complicated procedure, and that it is enough to have the necessary equipment at hand. In fact, an experienced and competent specialist is the main component of this process. To show what high-quality diagnostics of a VAZ with your own hands looks like, we propose to consider one such example, when many car services were powerless in the face of a problem. |
VAZ 2110, 1.6l 8kl, January 7.2, Euro-2.
The owner of the car more than once contacted various car services with his problem (the engine was very rough), where there was no real help. As a result, when the car simply stopped moving, it was dragged on a tie to the nearest service center, where the ignition coil was replaced, but the trouble remained. We connect it to the scanner, where we see the following errors: In the “Misfire” tab, for some reason it shows misfires in the 4th cylinder: We try to ask for errors, the picture becomes even more interesting: We reset the ECU and again it shows differently: Stop fooling around, let’s diagnose. As usual, we connect a motor tester, a vacuum sensor at the intake, connect to the DPKV, a synchronization sensor on the wire of the 1st cylinder and capacitive sensors on the explosive wires. A test for the efficiency of the cylinders showed that at idle speed the 1st cylinder almost does not work , but it starts working when the gas is released. It looks like a problem with compression, due to losses in the CPG, the cylinder has less recoil and pushes the crankshaft weaker, when adding speed, these losses are not so noticeable and the cylinder can have recoil equal to the others. But it should be taken into account that this phenomenon usually occurs only in the early stages of burnout and valve leakage. And in the bar-graph “Relative compression” these losses are immediately visible, in this case they are not visible in the 1st cylinder. An example of the lag of the 3rd cylinder due to losses in the CPG is in the picture below: Could it be an underfilled injector? No, if the injector doesn’t flow, then it doesn’t flow at all speeds and compression has nothing to do with it either: Is there a problem in the ignition system? No, there are rather possible options here - when misfires occur under load while driving or sudden throttling on the spot (Priora, individual coil): Dead spark plug or coil with shorted turns (non-functioning 2nd cylinder due to a problem in the ignition system) : xn--2111-43da1a8c.xn--p1ai
Summary
So, we looked at why the car is tripping. These are not all possible reasons, but they help to accurately diagnose the operation of the motor and find the malfunction.
Comrades, help out! The situation is this, I have a Priora, 1.6 16 valves, the engine starts to stall after the car warms up... It works fine when cold. The BC shows misfire errors, and in all cylinders it is chaotic... I changed the spark plugs, there are new ones... BUT, if you disconnect the block from the mass air flow sensor, the tripping goes away, it works like a clock without the mass air flow sensor, the speed is kept around 840 at idle and misfire errors do not appear... So I drove it for 2 weeks, I thought there was a problem with the mass air flow sensor, but today I installed a known working mass air flow sensor, taken from another Priora, in which everything is fine, but the situation has not changed, it’s the same... Where to look?
Sensors
Engine friction can be caused by 2 sensors. One of them is the idle speed sensor. If he makes a mistake, the engine will stall when cold. After warming up everything returns to normal. The problem may also be caused by the crankshaft position sensor. Usually the problem with it is visible during diagnosis.
Conclusion
. There are many engine-related malfunctions.
At the same time, even seemingly harmless ones can cause a bunch of other problems. Therefore, it is important to know all the reasons why the Priora 16 valve engine is tripping
This will help you quickly eliminate the problem, which significantly reduces engine life. It also brings closer the need for major repairs.
- Posts: 8
- From: Nyagan
November 4, 2008, 15:58 #1 123
I drove only 6500 km, the engine started to trouble, I went for diagnostics, they told me that everything was okay, I don’t know what to do, tell me what to do!
November 8, 2008, 21:50 #2 123
- Posts: 18
- From: Chuvashia Cheboksary
November 8, 2008, 21:56 #3 123
I started up at 8 thousand, the ignition coil was changed on the 2nd cylinder under warranty, and two weeks later on the 4th. Now everything is great. Did your check engine light (engine icon on the dashboard) come on? If yes, then the service station should not have told you everything was ok, since misfires are recorded in the b/c memory. By the way, I also didn’t always have gaps in diagnostics.
- Posts: 18
- From: Chuvashia Cheboksary
November 11, 2008, 10:30 pm #4 123
if this is not the case, then do a diagnostic of the injectors; if they are clogged, it’s cheaper to buy a new one (520 rubles) than to clean them with ultrasound (1500 rubles)
- Posts: 8
- From: Nyagan
November 28, 2008, 20:46 #5 123
Today I went to the service station for another diagnostic and they said I need to change the oxygen sensor, but I doubt it, what do you say?
- Posts: 8
- From: Nyagan
November 28, 2008, 20:48 #6 123
Posts: 1207
December 2, 2008, 13:42 #7 123
All errors are recorded in the ECU, but if it is disconnected from the battery, the ECU's RAM is reset to zero. Try to look for the so-called “snot”; perhaps there is a break somewhere under the insulation. If the defect appears under load, it is most likely spark plugs. Also, misfires can be associated with the knock sensor if it is not working well. Well, as I wrote above, the wires, contacts that fit to the spark plugs, to the sensors, the quality of installation is our sore spot. Call to bend, pull somewhere, the “snot” will show itself if everything else is working properly.
Posts: 1207
December 2, 2008, 2:09 pm #8 123
The oxygen sensor informs the ECU about the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gases; using its readings, the ECU regulates the duration of the injection pulse when it fails or the car stops pulling due to a lean mixture, or excessive fuel consumption begins and it idles unstably. It is located in the exhaust pipe, unfortunately, there is no way to check it, only according to the error records in the ECU, its operating temperature is 300 degrees, its operation is that depending on the amount of oxygen in the exhaust, the potential difference at the sensor output changes within approximately 0 .1 to 0.9 Volts.
December 3, 2008, 11:52 pm #9 123
Check the plugs on the intake receiver! The presence of oxygen above normal in the exhaust indicates air leakage into the intake tract.
- Posts: 8
- From: Nyagan
December 4, 2008, 20:12 #10 123
thanks to everyone, think about it, I did some chip tuning, everything worked like clockwork, it drives like a Ferrari
- Posts: 8
- From: Nyagan
December 4, 2008, 20:13 #11 123
- Posts: 32
- From: Lipetsk
March 11, 2009, 12:18 #12 123
how much does cheat tuning cost?
- Posts: 4
- From: Tambov
April 20, 2009, 21:47 #13 123
Hi all! There were also small dips under load. I replaced the spark plugs - everything disappeared and now the acceleration goes exactly as you press the pedal. The big deal is in the candles, but not always, diagnostics are necessary.
- Posts: 2
- From: Belgorod