The stove blows cold on a VAZ 2112 - reasons and solutions

The onset of winter for car owners is indicated not only by worsening weather conditions and a decrease in ride quality, but also by problems with the stove. Which of us remembers the heater of our VAZ in the summer? In the spring the stove turns off and it only gets to work in the fall. And this is where problems begin, for example, the interior does not warm up well or, in general, cold air blows from the VAZ-2112 stove. Before contacting a car service, you can try to figure out this problem yourself. It’s not that difficult, believe me, many problems with the VAZ-2112 heater can be eliminated with minimal effort and expense.

Most problems with the VAZ-2112 heater can be fixed yourself

VAZ-2112 owners need to know about some differences that are typical for the heating system. An important point is the separate operating principle. The heater design consists of a stove that prepares warm air to enter the cabin. The pipes are distributors of heated air. Thanks to the air ducts, heat comes from the control panel, is directed to the windows and blows on the feet. The heating system is controlled by a control unit. The heater design also includes an evaporator.

Briefly about the design features of the stove on the VAZ-2112

Until the owner of a VAZ-2112 encounters a cold interior in winter, he may not realize that the stove of the entire tenth family has an important design feature - it is made in the form of two separate systems, in each of which a breakdown may occur or a design defect may appear. or a factory defect.

Heater design diagram.

Firstly, the tens heater consists of an air heating unit itself. Everyone is familiar with this unit: heater radiator, air ducts with a regulation unit, cabin filter.
Secondly, the car is equipped with an electronic temperature control system. Each of these elements can pose a potential threat to the microclimate in the cabin. Another element of the system is the heater control unit controller. We will check each of the elements, modify them if necessary, and bring the temperature in the cabin back to normal.

Mayevsky crane

Design of the Mayevsky crane

It is designed to eliminate air lock in the heating battery. Despite its small size, the Mayevsky faucet helps to effectively remove accumulated steam not only in radiators, but also in pipes.

Structurally, it is a needle valve enclosed in a metal housing. How to remove an air lock from a heating system using it? First you need to decide on the device model.

Manual taps

After installation in the upper radiator pipe, air is released after turning the union nut on the tap. Removing an air lock from the heating system using a Mayevsky manual tap is carried out according to the following scheme:

Filling the system with coolant. The taps on the radiators are closed;
When the maximum level is reached, the water supply stops;
Having set the required gap of the needle limiter in the devices, the taps are opened;
At the same time, the coolant supply is restored.

Water is added to the system until liquid begins to flow from all Mayevsky taps. Be sure to check that there is no air flow. This method is effective for removing air locks in heating radiators when starting the system for the first time, before the season, or when airiness appears during operation.

Manual models will effectively eliminate air lock in the radiator for both autonomous and central heating. The main thing is to choose the right mounting thread. In most cases it is 1/2", but there are models with a non-standard size of 3/4".

Automatic taps

Mayevsky automatic crane

Unlike the model described above, in their design, a seat with a certain surface area is installed on the end of the needle valve. In combination with a return spring, the degree of pressure of which determines the critical pressure value at which the valve opens. A detailed device is designed to automatically break through a heating plug when a critical temperature value and, as a result, pressure is exceeded.

However, before installation you should familiarize yourself with the specifics of this model:

To prevent water from getting onto the floor, the structure must have a pipe to drain excess water into the sewer;
If it sits for a long time, the valve seat may become covered with limescale, which will make it difficult to open. Therefore, it is recommended to open the tap manually once every 2-3 months. The steps of the procedure must be done before starting the heating for the first time;
The set maximum opening pressure should not exceed the critical pressure of the entire system. In order to remove an air lock from the heating in automatic mode, the pressure value on the tap should be 5-10% less than the maximum.

What is better to install: an automatic or manual Mayevsky crane? If the operation of the system does not involve sudden pressure surges, manual models can be installed on the radiators. For autonomous heating, preference is given to automatic ones.

It is best to choose models made of brass. During the expulsion of an air lock from the heating, they can withstand not only a critical pressure value, but also a temperature. The steel body is subject to destruction and rusting.

Why is it impossible to change the heating temperature?

You can often observe a situation in the cabin 2110 2112 when the stove does not react in any way to the position of the temperature regulator, while the air temperature can be constantly low or constantly high. This is a sure sign that one of the electronic components has died. Let's check it all like this:

Interior temperature sensor. The stove controller receives information from the temperature sensor. It is located on the ceiling, near the interior lamp. The sensor is guaranteed not to work if the stove responds to the temperature control knob set to the extreme right position. Otherwise, we are looking for a fault in the controller itself.

Temperature sensor location.

Stove damper. The temperature may not change when the damper does not change its position. It is made of plastic, but its fastenings are metal, so they can oxidize, causing the damper to jam. Experienced owners recommend replacing the plastic damper with an aluminum one - it will dose air better and retain heat well. You can only get to the damper for inspection or replacement from under the hood.

Often the heater dampers get stuck.

Damper actuator. The damper drive is a small gearbox and an electric motor. This whole structure often jams and the engine burns out. To check the functionality of the damper drive, you will have to remove the frill, wipers and insulation. The unit cannot be repaired and is replaced if it fails.

The cause of heater failure may be the damper drive.

Main Culprits

Let's try to find the culprit that may be causing the stove to not work.

temperature sensor

The temperature sensor is located on the engine.

Key to 19

If the sensor works well, the damper will move depending on the value set on the regulator. You can check this by removing the deflectors and observing the movement of the damper.

Checking the operation of the coolant sensor at home with a multimeter

You should also check the resistance of the temperature sensor in the cabin itself. At 20 degrees the resistance should be 20 ohms, at 15 degrees - 25 ohms.

Stove controller

To check the operation of this element, you need to pull it out of its socket. Next, you need to turn on the ignition and turn the temperature switch knob. In this case, you should measure what voltage is on the wires in different positions of the regulator (these are brown and pink wires).

Disassembled stove controller

If everything works properly, then voltage on the wires will appear depending on the position of the switch itself. This voltage should subside on its own within 10-15 seconds after turning the regulator knob . If this does not happen, then the controller is acting up. It can only be completely replaced.

Gearmotor

Gear motor diagram with explanation

Due to the fact that it is out of order, the stove on the VAZ-2112 can also malfunction. It is quite difficult to check the operation of this unit. To do this you need to get into the engine compartment. After removing the sound insulation and frill, you will need to remove the wiper drive. There will be two connectors. The connector to which the brown and pink wires fit will be the connector of the gearmotor.

Initially, you need to check if the wires themselves are broken. To do this, you will also have to check the voltage at the gearmotor connector. If the wires are not broken, then there will be voltage.

To check the condition of the gearbox itself, you need to apply a voltage of 12 V to the connector. When it starts to spin, then everything is in order. If this does not happen, the part will have to be completely changed. If the gearbox spins, but the stove does not work, then the reason must be looked for in the wires and connectors. They may be oxidized.

The heater only works in one position

There are several options here. We'll have to check them all.

Test the wires in the controller . They may break or burn out.
The wires in the relay may have come loose . You need to look for the relay block in the engine compartment.
An additional resistor on the heater housing may burn out . It is he who regulates the speed of the fan.

Cold air coming from the damper

This may be due to a faulty thermostat or air temperature sensor. It is also possible that the antifreeze level in the cooling system is low.

Weak supply of warm air, stove modernization

One of the main problems of the VAZ-2110 - 2112 heater is leakage and poor-quality assembly, poor quality of air duct elements.

The stove can wildly heat up the air entering it, but the barely perceptible warm breath of the heater can reach the cabin. It's all about leaky air duct connections, and, unfortunately, there are quite a lot of them. Firstly, it is recommended to seal the primary air ducts; a leak of heated air is often detected between them and the stove itself; it simply warms the engine shield.

Modernization of the heater for the driver’s feet, we will write a separate article about this. The photo shows our editorial car.

To eliminate this drawback, unfortunately, you will have to spend more than one hour, since it is impossible to get to the air ducts without dismantling the front panel.

It is necessary to check and seal each junction of plastic air ducts and their joints with the interior and glass air deflectors. Individuals who are particularly disappointed in the factory stove completely throw away the stock air ducts and replace them with corrugated hoses, which are abundant in hardware stores. The joints are sealed with polyurethane foam or modelin.

Of course, there is a lot of work, but the time spent is worth it - after modernization, absolutely all the warm air will flow only for its intended purpose.

Here are some tips and tricks

I want to tell you an incident that happened to me.
I began to notice that the stove was not working evenly, that is, my feet were freezing, and the windows in the car were fogging up as they warmed up. I couldn’t figure it out for a long time and started looking for an answer on websites and saw that this was a fairly common problem. To eliminate it, it is necessary to modify the system. I did this: I removed all the panels and disassembled them, there were cracks and various holes. You just need to seal them up. In this case, complete sealing is most important. But I also found another way on the websites: the damper itself is removed, as well as the standard seal. After this, the cracks must be processed on the driver and passenger sides and where possible the valve must be glued.

I would like to note the fact that it is optimal to turn on the heater in the “windshield/legs” mode. This way you will avoid severe overheating of the windshields, but at the same time warm up your feet and the interior itself.

Blowing cold air - inspection of the heater radiator and cooling system

The radiator of the VAZ-2110 stove also does not have high heat transfer, and besides, it is quite difficult to get to it. However, it may be associated with a weak interior heating temperature:

The heater radiator is clogged. If antifreeze does not get into it when the cooling system is in full working order, then it will not heat. Diagnosing a clogged stove is difficult, but it is possible. With the engine fully warmed up and the heater on, we feel the temperature of the radiator inlet and outlet pipes by touch. If the inlet is hot and the outlet is cold, the heater radiator is clogged. Few people clean it; the public prefers to buy a new one. The market will allow you to choose several models of aluminum radiators and one or two copper ones at our discretion.

The problem of radiator obstruction is solved either by flushing using special liquids, or by replacing the element.

Cabin filter. If the cabin filter is clogged, there is no need to talk about air supply to the cabin. We take out the filter, check its condition and change it if necessary. In winter you can do without it. Diagnostics is simple - if the temperature in the cabin returns to normal when the filter is removed, that is the problem.

It wouldn't hurt to check the cabin filter as well.

Thermostat. Often there is a problem with the thermostat. Its valve refuses to allow antifreeze to flow into the heater circuit, so the radiator is left without liquid. The only cure is to replace the thermostat.

Checking the thermostat.

Heater radiator leaking. A clear symptom of a malfunction is antifreeze in the cabin and a drop in the level in the expansion tank. Only replacing the heater radiator will help.

If the radiator leaks, you will have to dismantle it and replace it with a new one.

Airlock. One of the most common problems with the cooling system and heater is an air lock. As a result, the circulation of antifreeze is disrupted and the stove does not warm up completely or does not heat up at all. The air plug is removed by releasing some of the liquid along with air from the very top of the engine - from the throttle block fitting while the engine is running. After removing the plug, the stove should restore functionality.

What to do first

In order not to get buried in the abundance of reasons, it is necessary to act from simple to complex. Leave the frightening thoughts of a broken cylinder head gasket and take a trifling attitude, as if the electric damper actuator has failed. Actually, that's where we'll start.

Check the operation of the climate control shutters

Turn the knob or rocker of the climate system and evaluate the temperature of the incoming air. For example, with “blue all the way” the air should be noticeably cold, and with the maximum red settings it should be warmer.

Immobilized valves will not be able to mix flows according to the specified °C value. Therefore, at any position of the regulator, air will blow at the same temperature. The dampers stop as a result of damaged fasteners or a failed servomotor.

Is the antifreeze level in the expansion tank stable?

Lift the hood, find the “extender” and the boundary marks on it. When cold, the antifreeze level should be between the MIN and MAX marks. If the tank is constantly emptying, look for leaks. You can look at where the coolant goes using the Lada Vesta as an example.

Heater radiators of some cars, for example Lada Kalina, are very sensitive to the amount of antifreeze in the expansion tank. At the slightest leak, the engine heats up, and the stove is cold or barely warm. And in general, when liquid flows out, air comes in and thus the system becomes airy.

Inspect the heater radiator for unobstructed circulation

Find two pipes going to the heater heat exchanger near the engine shield and touch them. The radiator assembly is embedded in a small circle in parallel, which means that the hoses should warm up immediately after starting the engine. It is better to carry out work when the engine is warmed up.

How to remove an air lock without draining the coolant

It happens that if there is air in a small circuit, the temperature sensor on the dashboard behaves strangely: the needle sometimes jumps. For example, it was at 60°C and instantly became 90-100°C, then returned back. This is explained by the fact that the air heats up noticeably faster than the liquid and to higher temperatures. As a rule, the needle twitches when the system is seriously aired.

The fact is that a small traffic jam does not always go around the entire small circle. Air accumulates at the highest point of the circuit - the radiator of the car furnace, causing the circulation of coolant in it to slow down. At the same time, there are no sudden temperature changes in the motor jacket. Even without observing extraneous symptoms, assume that the engine is overheating and the cabin heater is blowing cold air due to air accumulation. Try to etch it out, because you don’t need to disassemble anything:

Raise the front end on a lift or drive up a hill.
Allow air to escape through the highest point in the system. Why unscrew the cap of the expansion tank if it is a circulation tank (there is no plug on the engine radiator), or the cover of the engine heat exchanger. On front-wheel drive Ladas, the highest point is the throttle heating hose, disconnect it.
Warm up the engine to operating temperature at idle speed.
Increase the speed to 2,500-2,700 units.

How to easily remove a dirt plug from a furnace heat exchanger

When one side of the heater radiator is cold and the other is hot + no antifreeze is coming out, feel free to flush the heater radiator installation. There is no need to remove anything except the pipes. The only equipment that will be useful is a submersible pump from a country well, a deep basin, long hoses and one of the means for flushing the car engine cooling system.

Find out where the heat exchanger has the inlet and outlet and start cleaning:

Disconnect the standard tubes. When dismantling the pipes, 1-1.5 liters will drain. coolant. A 2-3 liter coolant canister is quite enough to replenish reserves. There is no need to drain all the antifreeze from the system.
Connect the hoses leading to the pump and basin: supply to the radiator outlet, drain to the inlet.
Fill the container with cleaning agent.
Turn on the pump for 10-15 seconds.
Reconnect the hoses: supply - to the inlet of the heat exchanger, drain - to the outlet.
Turn on the pump for 15-20 minutes.

The flushing composition will circulate in a circular manner: from the basin and back into it.
A short supply of fluid in the opposite direction quickly flushes out the dirt plug at the radiator inlet.
Check whether antifreeze flows from the radiator steam pipes into the tank (relevant for circulation “expanders”).

Why does the VAZ-2112 stove heat poorly and how to fix it

If the stove on your VAZ-2112 does not heat well, do not be upset - this problem is common to many domestic cars. In winter, when your feet are cold inside and your hands are freezing, this, of course, will make few people happy, but almost any malfunction associated with stove repair can be repaired. It is difficult to say unequivocally why this happens, since everything has its own reasons that need to be found and eliminated.

The design of the VAZ-2112 stove (16 valves) is quite simple and consists of two elements. One of them is that the heater is installed under the hood of the car and must heat the air, which is supplied to the cabin at a certain speed. The second one is the air distributor. To eliminate the cause of poor heating of the stove on the VAZ-2112, you need to figure out which one is not working correctly.

If you are unable to change the speed of the fan located on the heater, then most likely the problem lies there. The electronics may also be faulty, but this is extremely rare. To quickly understand the reasons for poor heating, you need to know the principle of operation of the stove, and it is extremely simple. When setting the temperature, the sensor compares it with the one currently in the cabin. If the difference is several degrees, the gear motor opens or closes the dampers, adjusting the temperature indicator. If the difference is more than 5 degrees, the next fan speed is switched on.

Warm air enters the cabin through special channels, heating the windows, driver and passengers.

Malfunction of the ACS unit and open circuit

If an independent check of the fuse and resistor does not produce results, and the fan still does not work, you should consider the possibility of a problem with the ACS unit, as well as with an open circuit.

When actively using the stove regulators in the “ten”, “dvenashka” or “eleven”, the heating unit periodically fails. The reason for this problem is trivial - poor workmanship and board malfunction. If you have experience, you can solve the problem by soldering the contacts. As a last resort, you can replace the entire heating unit; fortunately, there are a lot of offers on the Internet with used parts for little money.

Please note that before replacing the part, you should carry out a small diagnostic to ensure that the unit is faulty. You can perform such diagnostics yourself in several steps:

Remove the block from the seat and remove the chip from the six-pin connector;
Turn on the ignition, connect the red and blue wires;
If the fan starts working, the problem lies in the unit.

Such a malfunction can be identified quite simply, so do not rush to buy and change all possible elements of the car’s heating system. To be completely sure that the unit is faulty, you can install a known working element in the car.

Another variant of the problem due to which the heater fan on the “ten” refuses to work is an open circuit. To identify this problem, you will have to remove the protective plastic casing above the fan. Also, for normal access to this electrical appliance, you will have to remove the wipers and frill.

The heater power wires are located near the motor itself, so you won’t be able to get to the wiring without disassembling the protective parts. Having removed all the interfering plastic elements, you can conduct a visual inspection of the condition of the ground and the positive power wire of the motor. Below in the photo there is a minus arrow, and next to it is a plus chip.

To test the theory of a faulty motor, you can turn on the ignition and check the voltage on the wires. If there is voltage on the wires, the electric motor of the heater motor is faulty. If desired, you can disassemble this element, but the easiest way is to install a new fan.

With any variations of engines on the “tenth” family, similar heater motors were always installed; in any case, the design of the heater on any configuration of these models remained similar. Thus, the methods presented above for checking an electric motor are applicable to any car from this VAZ family.

Causes of poor heating

The reasons for insufficient heating vary. The most common of them is an insufficient amount of antifreeze in the engine cooling system. To determine the amount of coolant, you need to check the expansion tank and add antifreeze to the level if necessary. The next significant reason may be hidden in the heater core. Often a crack or small hole appears in the radiator, which affects the quality of its operation.

An air lock is another problem that prevents the radiator from fully performing its functions. You can try to eliminate it. To do this, you need to drive your front wheels onto a hill and stand for several minutes with the engine running at medium speed. In some cases, simply replacing the cabin filter is enough. The reasons, as you can see, can be different; some will take a few minutes to eliminate, while others sometimes take half a day. But let's look at what needs to be done if the stove does not heat well.

Refinement of the plastic block

If the stove blows weakly into your feet, then the reason is in the plastic heater control unit. Before starting repairs, it is recommended to make sure that the stove is in working order. Then you will need:

dismantle and disassemble the torpedo;
seal the cracks on the panel;
install a new corrugation;
seal the panel.

During the factory assembly of the car, the damper is poorly pressed against the dashboard, which contributes to the loss of hot air in the instrument panel. This problem can be solved by removing the damper and the standard seal. We treat the cracks and the valve with madeleine. The factory sponge is replaced with Bitoplast-10. To prevent the passenger's feet from freezing, the air ducts are being modernized.

Another heat loss problem is related to cracks near the driver's seat. They can be blown out with foam. If necessary, replace the old-style air distributor. We place a pipe with a diameter of 40 mm in each hole. If the unit works correctly, then the heating scheme is as follows: from one corrugation warm air flows to the driver’s feet, and from 2 and 3 to the passengers’ feet. There should be no holes between the pipes. If you completely remove the air ducts, hot air will flow into the cabin.

temperature sensor

You can often encounter the following problem: it is not possible to properly regulate the temperature in the cabin. In most cases, the problem is a failure of the control unit and an incorrectly set damper. This is not a difficult problem at all, and it can be solved quickly. First you need to check the serviceability of the temperature sensor. To do this, move the heater knob to one side, and after a while - to the other. The temperature of the air entering the cabin should change. If this happens, the problem is not in the controller. If the temperature sensor does not work, you can temporarily turn on the stove without it, then the temperature in the cabin will be the same as that set on the electronic unit.

Heater motor failure

Car owners often encounter a problem when the fan refuses to work. There may be quite a few reasons for this, but the main element responsible for its operation is the motor.

The fan may lose its fuse due to a short circuit or failure of this element.
If the driver notices interruptions in the operation of the stove, then it can be concluded that the contacts have oxidized or been damaged. Usually the situation changes if you try to move the contacts.
It is important to monitor the condition of the ignition relay, since it can also affect the operation of the heater. This may require a complete replacement.
When the stove motor refuses to work, it may be that it is burnt out. It may also be poor contact of the mass and sticking of the brushes.

To ensure that driving a car remains comfortable and safe, it is necessary to operate it competently, monitor the condition of the system and eliminate malfunctions in a timely manner, check the level of antifreeze, which should always be normal.

Poor heating at idle

If you suddenly experience a flow of cold air while the engine is warm and the heater is on, there are probably problems with the thermostat or pump. The cause of this phenomenon may be a damaged cylinder head gasket. A broken gasket gives the effect of an airy state. But this is not the worst situation, it is much worse if the reason why the stove does not heat well is a non-working pump.

A failed pump will not circulate coolant, causing the engine to overheat. So if the heater on your car begins to heat worse, you need to check the performance of the pump. A faulty heater valve also affects the flow of warm air into the car interior. If it stops working normally, the inlet hose will be hot and the outlet hose will be cold.

The design of the heating system of the VAZ-2110

The concept of interior heating on the VAZ-2110 remains the same - the air supplied to the cabin is heated by the cooling system. To do this, a radiator is installed in the cabin, under the front panel, which is included in the cooling system; heated antifreeze moves through it. The air passing through the radiator is supplied through the air intake. After heating, the air flow through the air ducts is supplied to the necessary areas - the windshield, legs, torso.

Forced air circulation is provided, which increases the efficiency of the distribution of warm flow throughout the cabin. For this purpose, the stove is equipped with a fan driven by an electric motor.

The air heating temperature is regulated by dampers. One of them allows the flow either through the radiator (for heating) or bypassing it. The damper divides the flow to obtain the desired temperature - one part of it goes through the radiator, and the second bypasses it, after which it is mixed, the degree of heating is regulated and supplied to the air ducts.

The second damper is designed to shut off the air supply to the cabin from the outside. Thanks to it, a closed air circulation mode is established.

Broken gear motor or heater

In almost all cases, a non-working gear motor is easier to replace. In order to release this element, it is necessary to remove the windshield wiper, “jabot” and unscrew the screws. After this, you need to remove all the wires going to the gearmotor, and then remove it too. Next, change the non-working element and adjust the air supply.

The heater malfunctions very rarely, but it should also be checked. To determine its condition, you need to dismantle the main deflector and also straighten the fasteners. Large amounts of scale or mechanical damage will indicate a non-functional condition.

How to solve the problem of poor heating of the stove on a VAZ-2112

Trouble-shooting

Checking the cabin air temperature sensor

You can check the serviceability yourself; special skills are not required. Carefully remove the sensor from its original place. We find the contacts on the back side. Using a multimeter, apply a voltage of 1.2V. We set the regulators of the automatic heater control system to the “Min”, “Max” positions. The motor should not be activated.

The second method is to turn off the cabin air sensor. Check fan speed settings. The first speed (“A”) should be inactive.

Video: Heater VAZ 2110, 11, 12. Design and principle of operation.

Checking the proper operation of the automatic control system

The proper operation is checked with a multimeter. The voltage at the terminals of the pink and brown wires is measured, the ignition is activated. Smoothly turn the temperature regulator; the arrow on the multimeter display should show an increase in voltage.

The main reasons for a non-working stove

If the VAZ-2112 stove does not heat well, then one of the following problems may be occurring:

Impossibility of temperature control.
When there is a cold air flow under the hood, uncharacteristic clicking sounds are heard.
The radiator is leaking.
Lack of functioning of the temperature sensor, which can be found on the ceiling of the cabin.
Damage to the ACS control unit.

These reasons are the most common. You can eliminate each of them yourself, and we will tell you how.

Inability to regulate temperature

If the VAZ-2112 stove does not heat, then it is worth checking whether it is possible to regulate the temperature regime. This problem may occur due to malfunctions in the control unit or due to a malfunctioning damper. First of all, it is worth checking the serviceability of the temperature sensor, which is located on the ceiling of the cabin near the ceiling lamp. We turn the temperature control lever starting from the cold position and ending with the hot position. Although temperature changes will still be felt. If the supply of hot air begins only when the sensor is installed in the hot extreme position, then we can speak of its failure and prepare to replace it with a new element.

First of all, check the temperature control lever

Damper problems

If the stove is not blowing well, then it is worth checking the operation of the damper. The fasteners on it may oxidize and in this case the damper will not turn. You can only get to the damper through the hood, after first removing the deflectors and bending the antennae. After such actions, you can try to move the damper from the inside. If everything is fine with the damper and there are no traces of oxidation on the fastenings, then it will move easily.

The damper drive has a micromotor, which is located near the windshield under the hood. This element can also cause the stove to not heat. To get to the micromorch, it is necessary to dismantle the frill and insulation. When the warm air supply is turned on, the lever should move, this indicates the serviceability of the motor.

The design of the motor contains gears that tend to wear out and, as a result, slip. In this case, you should seriously think about replacing the motor. Although among car owners there are craftsmen who drive without a motor and close the throttle with their hands. With such repairs, the stove will constantly blow hot air, which is not at all good.

If there is poor airflow, you should check the operation of the damper.

Radiator leak

When the heater is not blowing, it is worth checking the radiator for leaks. Adding fluid to the radiator only saves the situation for a while, but then the problem with the heater arises again. A leaking radiator is one of the complex problems that relate to the heating system of the VAZ-2112. The main snag is the need to dismantle a large number of parts, including the stove itself.

If the condition of the radiator is unsatisfactory, the best solution is to replace it. Of course, small cracks can be soldered and still enjoy a comfortable ride for some time. If large leaks are detected, you should still think about replacing the radiator, otherwise you will have to assemble/disassemble the car quite often.

Tips for using the stove

For several years of production of cars of the “tenth” VAZ family, engineers did not provide for the possibility of modifying the rheostat. The design with this part does not allow you to be 100% confident in the reliability of the heater. It is also worth noting that the location of the part is not the most convenient.

To ensure long-term operation of the resistor, we recommend following the following recommendations:

use the stove in different positions and do not allow long periods of operation in one mode;
If there are extraneous noises, creaks and whistles from the fan, it is recommended to stop its operation until the cause of the noise is eliminated.

Because The price of this part is low, and it often breaks down - we recommend carrying a spare with you in case of breakdown. We also note that in the absence of a spare part, the operation of the faulty heating element can be restored by resoldering the contacts. This method is temporary, so having instructions for replacement will not be superfluous.

Otherwise, the design of the heater in the “tenth” VAZ family is simple, so it rarely fails. The weak link in this design is the rheostat, but understanding how to replace it allows you not to think about a possible breakdown.

So that the stove always warms

Follow simple rules for proper operation of the stove

If you pay attention to the heating system and do not start this important element of the car, you can protect yourself from unpleasant surprises, lengthy repairs and unnecessary expenses. Follow simple rules and the stove will always work properly.

Regular cleaning of the radiator is the main condition for the normal operation of the heating system.
It is advisable to fill the radiator with high-quality antifreeze from reliable manufacturers. Using a fluid of questionable quality will lead to rapid build-up and the need for frequent cleaning of the system.
Antifreeze should be replaced at least once a year.
If the thermostat is faulty, then it must be replaced with a new one, the sooner the better. The thermostat often gets stuck in the open position, which leads to insufficient heating of the interior and prolonged warming of the car itself. If the thermostat breaks while it is closed, the car may overheat, which will entail serious consequences and costly repairs.
The stove does not heat well when air gets into the heating system. This is not the worst problem, which can be easily eliminated by manually pouring antifreeze or idling the car for a short time.
It is necessary to periodically check the damper control levers to ensure they are working properly. If the cable has come off and the valve is faulty, the air flow will not be sufficiently heated.
The stove fan design contains bearings that sometimes need to be lubricated.
Using cabin filters and regularly cleaning or replacing them. Air passes through a clogged filter with difficulty, therefore the stove will not work at full capacity.

Now for each of you the question of why the stove on the VAZ-212 does not work will not seem so difficult. You can find the cause and eliminate it without specialists; you only need desire and at least minimal car maintenance skills.

The heater only blows at one speed

Without dismantling, you can diagnose a breakdown if the fan spins only at one speed or only in the third mode . The reason is the resistor, which is installed in the heater controller itself.

When the stove operates at only one speed, you should check the resistor.

Structurally, the switch is designed so that in the first two modes the electric motor is supplied with low voltage through a resistor, and in mode 3, bypassing the resistor. You can check this using a multimeter in resistance measurement mode.

The resistance of the first speed resistor is 0.23 Ohm , the second is 0.82 Ohm . If the spiral breaks or the contact tracks are worn, the multimeter will show infinity or a break.

Depending on the controller model, it may have three or four control positions, but the principle of operation is the same and understanding the connection diagram is not so difficult. Whatever the switch is, if speeds 1 and 2 are not working, you need to check the resistance on the switch slider . Thus, you can try to restore the heater control system or replace it with a new one as a last resort. Good luck to everyone in their search and warm cozy salons!