Reasons for the lack of spark on the VAZ 2107 injector

Lack of spark on the spark plugs is one of two basic faults most often found on cars (the second is no fuel supply to the engine). Loss of spark or weak spark from the spark plugs indicates problems in the ignition system. Either in a high voltage circuit or a low voltage circuit. In this case, the car engine will not start at all (both cold and hot), or will start and stall (if there is a spark, but weak). Let's consider the main reasons for the loss of spark on carburetor engines of VAZ 2105, 2107, 2108, 2109, 21099 cars with contact and non-contact ignition systems.

Then we remove the central high-voltage wire, insert a working spark plug into its tip and place it on the engine (so that there is contact with ground). While the assistant turns the engine with the starter, you need to visually verify the absence or presence of a spark at the spark plug. A spark has appeared - the spark plugs themselves, the high-voltage wires or the ignition distributor in the distributor are faulty. There was still no spark - problems with the switch, Hall sensor, ignition coil.

Lost spark, reasons for contactless ignition system

The ignition coil has failed.

Checking the ignition coil. The ignition coil is usually checked for winding resistance and insulation resistance using a tester. For oil-filled coils (27.3705) and dry coils (3122.3707), the resistance is slightly different. Read more: “Checking the ignition coil.” In the absence of a special device for testing, we use the method of replacing our coil with another one that is known to be good.

checking the primary winding of the ignition coil

The switch is faulty.

Checked with an oscilloscope. Since not everyone has it, we use the replacement method - instead of our switch we install a known good one. You can very roughly estimate the performance of the switch based on the voltmeter readings after turning on the ignition (see “Checking the switch”).

Hall sensor is faulty.

It is checked with a voltmeter according to a special connection diagram (see “Checking the Hall sensor”). If there is no voltmeter, we use the replacement method.

Hall sensor, check

Open circuit in low voltage circuit.

Using the diagram, we look through the wires included in the ignition system, and if necessary, “ring” to detect a “break.” See "Contactless Ignition System Diagram".

In the contact ignition system, the list of malfunctions leading to the disappearance of the spark is as follows:

The mechanical breaker in the distributor is faulty.

Its contacts have oxidized, collapsed or burned. There is no gap between the breaker contacts.

breaker contacts

The ignition coil is faulty.
"Open" in the low voltage circuit.

Notes and additions

— To quickly find the reason for the disappearance of the spark on the spark plugs, you need to know the principle of operation of both contact and non-contact ignition systems (for more details, see “The principle of operation of the ignition system”). The purpose of the ignition system is to generate high voltage current at the right moment and supply it to the spark plugs. This is accomplished by interrupting the low voltage current in the primary winding circuit of the ignition coil. In a contactless system, the switch interrupts the current based on a signal from the Hall sensor; in a contact system, a mechanical breaker with contacts is driven by a tetrahedron on the distributor shaft.

More articles on the ignition system of VAZ cars

Post by USA » 03 Dec 2011, 19:48

The spark went into the ground, dig deeper (c)

VAZ 2107 injector does not start

With an injection engine, everything is a little simpler and more complicated at the same time.
In principle, there are again two directions: gasoline and spark. Well, compression, respectively. For starters, there is a “check engine” light that will light up if the ignition system is faulty. The error code in this case will begin with P03XX. That is, misfires in the cylinders. Of course, you must first check whether there is a spark. There are several diagnostic methods that are worth paying attention to:

Diagnostic scanner. There is nothing complicated here. If there is an error, then everything is much simpler than when there are no errors at all. In this case, we check the part itself, and then the reasons, if it is working.

Ignition module. There are several methods worth trying to check, but the most reliable is to go to the store and take it with a receipt for verification. You can immediately talk about returning it if your own is in working order. Of course, not all stores will do this, but most will agree. The VAZ engine does not start for one reason. This is quite common among car enthusiasts. The control unit contains two transistors, each of which is responsible for a pair of cylinders. Most often they burn out at the same time, and the spark disappears completely.

If everything is fine with the spark, you need to check the power supply to the engine. Again, unscrew the spark plugs and see if they are wet.

If the spark plugs are dry, then you need to see if voltage is supplied to the injectors, first. To do this, remove the connector from one, connect the tester probes to the connector and ground.

After you are convinced of this, you need to measure the pressure in the fuel rail.

Most likely this is the problem. Therefore, you need to check the fuel pump, first of all, the fuse that is responsible for it.

It is easier to check the fuel pump by replacing it with a known good one, as with the ignition module.

What to do when the starter cranks without engaging

First of all, you should make sure that the starter is not broken. If the starter is faulty, when you try to start the engine, unusual sounds will come from under the hood: crackling, knocking, humming, clicking.

If the starter is working properly, you will hear the characteristic buzzing of the electric motor of the starter itself. Thus, you need to act by elimination.

Regardless of whether the car runs on gasoline or diesel fuel, fuel is supplied to the cylinders through a carburetor or injector. The car engine may not start, even if the starter is functioning properly, due to problems with this unit.

If the car has a carburetor

You can determine whether the carburetor is working properly in this way. When the throttle is opened sharply, a portion of fuel should be injected into the diffuser from the accelerator pump nozzle. If this is not the case, it means that gasoline is not entering the combustion chambers. Both the carburetor and other elements of the fuel system may be faulty.

Tips for injector owners

If the starter spins on a fuel-injected car, but the internal combustion engine does not start, we can assume a breakdown in the fuel supply system.

This problem often occurs on VAZ 2110, 2112, Kalina, Priora, Granta, Daewoo Nexia and Matiz cars. But the injectors of modern foreign cars Opel Astra, Chevrolet Lacetti, Hyundai Solaris and Accent, Toyota, Ford, Peugeot and Kia do not have such diseases.

What to do with diesel

The owner of a car with a diesel power unit, first of all, if the starter turns, but the engine does not start, should check whether there is air leakage into the system

This is especially important in winter. The fact is that under the influence of low temperatures, solarium waxes (freezes)

In this state, fuel simply will not physically flow into the combustion chambers of the internal combustion engine.

Checking the crankshaft sensor

Misfire causes VAZ 2107 injector
On most cars, a faulty DPKV usually causes a fault code, so use a diagnostic scanner. Or check the crankshaft sensor itself.

Magnetic DPKV

Crankshaft magnetic sensors can be tested by disconnecting the electrical connector and measuring the resistance between the corresponding terminals. If the resistance is not within specifications, the sensor is faulty and must be replaced.

Magnetic crankshaft position sensors produce alternating current when the engine is started, so checking the output voltage is another test that can be performed.

With the sensor connected, measure the output voltage at the sensor terminals when the engine starts. If you see at least 20 mV on AC, the sensor is good and there is probably a problem with the module.

If the output voltage is low, remove the sensor and inspect the end for rust or debris (magnetic sensors will attract metal particles). Clean the sensor, reinstall it and test again.

Make sure it has the proper air gap (if adjustable) as the distance between the end of the sensor and the ring gear or notches in the crankshaft will affect the sensor's voltage output. If the air gap is correct and the output voltage is still low, replace the sensor.

DPKV on the Hall effect

Hall effect crankshaft position sensors typically have three terminals. One is for current supply, one is for grounding and one is for output signal. The sensor must have voltage and ground to produce a signal, so check these terminals first with a multimeter.

The sensor output can be checked by disconnecting the DIS module and cranking the engine to ensure that the sensor is producing a voltage signal. The voltmeter voltage should change each time a prong passes in front of the sensor. When observed on an oscilloscope, you should see a square wave shape. The absence of a signal indicates that the sensor is faulty.

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Removal and installation of distributor VAZ-2107, 2104, 2105, 2106

Preparation

Throttle sensor for car VAZ 2107 injector

Before installing a new VAZ-2107 distributor for a contact ignition system, you need to adjust the gap between the contacts of the breaker. It is more convenient to do this with the device removed from the car. We check the gap with a flat feeler gauge. The value is set from 0.35 to 0.45 mm. In this case, the protrusion of the cam should move the moving contact away from the stationary contact as much as possible. We adjust by slightly loosening the screws, and then tighten them more firmly and check the gap again. Contacts that have worked hard may have a protrusion on one and a depression on the other, which interferes with adjustment. You can get around this problem by grinding off the protrusion with a needle file. It is better not to use sandpaper, because... small particles of abrasive will definitely “eat” into the surface and interfere with the operation of the contacts.

Before removing the old distributor, mark its position relative to the cylinder block with a marker. You also need to accurately mark the position of the moving contact (slider) relative to the body. If all this is not done, the settings will be violated and the engine will not start.

Installation

Having established exactly the same position of the roller in the body on the new distributor, carefully insert it into the hole in the block, slightly turning the roller to align the splines. Having “planted” the device in place by rotating the body relative to the block, we set the approximate advance angle, as on the old distributor. Secure with a washer and nut, but not too tight. Now you need to plug in the high voltage wires. This is easy to do - each contact on the distributor cover has the number of the cylinder to which it needs to be connected. We connect the wire from the ignition coil to the central terminal. The wires should fit tightly, with a slight tension, the protective caps should be pushed all the way down. Don’t get carried away, don’t bend the petals of the wire tips too much, otherwise later, when you try to remove them, you’ll tear off the wires “with their roots”! A wire goes from the contact wire to the “K” terminal of the ignition coil, usually it is green. If your VAZ-2107 is equipped with a contactless ignition system, then you need to connect a connector with three wires. Having plugged it into the socket, check the fit of the wires; it happens that they “crawl out” from their places and the device does not work. Everything is done, the new distributor is installed and ready to go. Let's try to start the engine. Started up? Great, that means everything was done correctly, all that remains is to check and slightly adjust the ignition timing.

We check the ignition module of the 16-valve VAZ-2112 with a multimeter

The float is knocking in the tank of a VAZ 2107 injector

The situation is as follows: for no apparent reason the engine began to “trouble”, the thrust was lost, and the idle now does not even reach 500. I removed the high-voltage wires one by one, and so, there was no spark at all in cylinders 2 and 3. The engine is 16-valve, but without “individual coils”. The question is how to check the ignition module on a VAZ-2112 engine, and it is advisable not to remove it. Inside the module, in addition to the coils, electronics are installed. How can I check if it's working properly?

Checking the VAZ-2112 ignition module with your own hands

Inside the ignition module there is such a board

It is clear that we are talking about the 21120 engine and the ignition module 2112-3705010. By the way, there will be two more numbers in the article numbers - they indicate the manufacturer.

All elements of the ignition system

Four wires are connected to the module connector:

Blue-red – nutrition +12;
Brown – “mass”;
White-blue – signal for candles 1 and 4;
Gray-red – candles 2 and 3.

First check that all voltages are supplied to the module:

Turn off the ignition, disconnect the connector;
Turn the key to position I;
We connect the probe voltmeter probe to the battery negative;
Using the second probe (positive) we find the “+12V” contact in the connector;
At each control contact the arrow will show “almost 0”;
With the starter running, the values should increase while remaining less than 0.7 V.

The voltage on both control contacts must be the same.

Let's say that checking the connector did not reveal any errors. Next we will look for the reason in the module itself.

Tester CNT-SPMZ

According to the recommendation of the plant, on VAZ-2112 cars the ignition module should be checked for the need for repair with a tester called TsNT-SPMZ. The kit consists of a generator and a arrester module.

CNT-SPMZ, version 3

If we don’t have a tester at hand, we’ll try to make one ourselves. Only the ignition module will still have to be removed by unscrewing three nuts “10”. First, disconnect the battery, then the spark plug wires and connector. By the way, the wires have numbers corresponding to the numbers on the module (see video).

Repair of VAZ 2108 distributor (replacement of the vacuum regulator)

In distributors of VAZ 2108-09-099 cars, the VROZH quite often fails. Its performance can be checked without removing the PR from the engine - we suck in air through the hose, and if a vacuum is not created, the regulator should be changed.

The ignition timing regulator can be replaced on site without removing the distributor:

unscrew the two screws of the distributor cover, and together with the high-voltage wires, move the cover to the side, disconnecting only the central wire;
we pull out the slider, it can be removed by hand;
Using a thin screwdriver, pull out the latch that secures the VROZH rod; you need to remove the fastening element carefully so as not to lose it;
unscrew the 2 screws securing the “vacuum unit” and remove the device;
We install the new part in place and put everything back together.

Replacing the VROZH can also be done by removing the distributor, which will even be more convenient. Remove the distributor as follows:

disconnect the high-voltage wires from the PR cover;
use a thin screwdriver to hook the retaining springy wire on the connector and remove the plug going to the distributor from the bottom left;
we pull off the hose from the VROZH, make a mark on the PR body or notice how it stood;
unscrew the three nuts that secure the distributor itself, and then remove the breaker - distributor.

It’s easy to install the distributor back - the camshaft spline has a groove shifted to one side, and therefore the PR is installed in only one position, it’s impossible to make a mistake here

During installation, you need to pay attention to the rubber O-ring - if the rubber has hardened, the part must be replaced. And in any case, the seal should be coated with an oil-resistant sealant, in which case oil leakage will be almost 100% avoided

Technological delights of modern “candle” devices

In an effort to meet the ever-increasing demands of automotive companies, leading spark plug manufacturers are introducing new materials into the technological process and improving production. Thus, today the candle body is produced using cold plastic molding technology. This requires the use of automated machines and a press that develops a pressure of more than 100 tons. Ceramic insulators that meet today's high-voltage requirements are produced in compliance with a technological sequence, including grinding the mixture, molding the product and firing. Equally important are the accuracy of assembly, installation of a high-temperature seal and hermetically sealed casing. Another important factor is the composition of the resistive powder that is used to fill the candle cavity. The filler ensures stable electrical contact during large temperature changes that are inevitable under conditions of maximum power. Technological processes and material properties are the subject of continuous development, requiring significant investments from manufacturers.

Checking the contactless distributor

If the “six” is equipped with a contactless ignition system, then checking elements such as spark plugs, coil, and explosive wires is performed in the same way as with a contact one. The differences lie in checking the switch and the Hall sensor installed instead of the contacts.

Hall Sensor

The easiest way to diagnose a Hall sensor is to install a known working element. But since the part may not always be at hand, you have to look for other possible options.

Checking the removed sensor

During the test, the voltage at the sensor output is determined. We determine the serviceability of the element removed from the machine according to the presented diagram by applying a voltage in the range of 8–14 V.

Diagram for checking the removed Hall sensor: 1 - ignition distributor; 2 - 2 kOhm resistor; 3 - voltmeter with a scale limit of at least 15 V and an internal resistance of at least 100 kOhm; 4 - plug connector connected to the ignition distributor sensor

By placing a screwdriver in the gap of the sensor, the voltage should change within 0.3–4 V. If the distributor has been completely removed, then by turning its shaft, we measure the voltage in the same way.

Checking the sensor without removing it

The performance of the Hall sensor can be assessed without removing the part from the car, using the diagram provided.

Diagram for checking the Hall sensor on a car: 1 - ignition distributor; 2 - adapter connector with a voltmeter having a scale limit of at least 15 V and an internal resistance of at least 100 kOhm; 3 — plug connector connected to the ignition distributor sensor; 4 - car wiring harness

The essence of the test comes down to connecting a voltmeter to the corresponding contacts on the sensor connector. After this, turn on the ignition and turn the crankshaft with a special key. The presence of voltage at the output, which corresponds to the above values, will indicate the serviceability of the element.

Video: Hall sensor diagnostics

Switch

Since the formation of a spark also depends on the switch, you need to know how to check this device too.

One of the reasons for the lack of spark on the spark plugs may be a faulty switch

You can purchase a new part or perform the following sequence of actions using a control light:

Unscrew the nut and remove the brown wire from contact “K” of the coil.
We connect a light bulb to the resulting open circuit.
Turn on the ignition and crank the starter several times. If the switch is working properly, the light will light up. Otherwise, the element being diagnosed will need to be replaced.

Video: checking the ignition system switch

The performance of the systems and components of the VAZ “six” must be constantly monitored. The occurrence of problems with sparking will not go unnoticed. Troubleshooting and troubleshooting does not require special tools or skills. A minimal set consisting of keys, a screwdriver and a light bulb will be quite sufficient for diagnostics and repairs. The main thing is to know and understand how a spark is formed, and what elements of the ignition system can affect its absence or poor quality.

Why might there be no spark?

The list of situations in which there may be no spark in car spark plugs is very long; anything can affect this. Let's try to identify the most frequently occurring causes on the VAZ models 2109, 2114, 2110, 2106:

weak battery charge;
the problem is in the high-voltage wires;
there are problems with the ignition coil;
problems with the low voltage circuit;
problems with the ignition distributor.

You should also pay attention to the quality of contacts and electrical components. The contacts, of course, can be checked quite easily by tugging them a little with your fingers. In addition, it is advisable to inspect all elements of the ignition system. If there is dirt, oil, or water on them, they must be wiped off immediately with a dry cloth. After this, you can try to start the car.

Checking the ignition coil

To diagnose the coil, you need to remove the main wire from the distributor cap. Next, we try to crank the starter to see a spark from the wire.

A spark has formed - this indicates that the coil is working properly. So the problem is with the breaker.
If there is no spark, the fault must be looked for in the ignition coil.

If it has been determined that the problem lies specifically in the ignition coil, then it will have to be replaced. In “middle-aged” VAZ cars, especially 2109, 2106, 2114, 2110, this phenomenon is by no means rare.

Checking high voltage wires

After checking the contact spark plugs, we move further along the circuit and test the performance of the high-voltage wires. The instructions below will help you diagnose if the spark disappears on only one of the cylinders:

swap the wires connected to the spark plugs;
check for the presence of a spark;
if it appears on the cylinder to which you transferred the new wire and disappears on the other, then the problem is in the cable. Therefore, the latter will need to be replaced.

In exactly the same way, the integrity of the central wire through which voltage is supplied to the ignition coil is checked. You can also try to press it harder against the transformer and distributor cap to restore contact.

Making sure the spark plugs are working

Most often, the spark disappears due to problems with one of the spark plugs, so we will test these parts first. You can even check it in the field. To do this, it is enough to have a known working candle with you. Testing is performed as follows:

insert a new spark plug;
crank the starter and check for a spark;
If the new part works fine, then we simply leave it in place and start the engine.

In a situation where a working spark plug does not fire, more complex checks will be required.

High voltage wires

After the spark plugs have been checked and it turns out that they are not the problem, you need to test to see if anything has happened to the high-voltage wires. Diagnosis is carried out in four simple steps.

If there is no spark on only one cylinder, swap the wires
Let's check if the problem is resolved after this action
If a spark appears on a cylinder, but it disappears on another cylinder, then the problem is definitely in the wire.
The faulty wire must be replaced with a new one.

Likewise, it would not hurt to check whether the central wire that supplies current to the ignition coil is working properly. Sometimes a spark appears after this wire is pressed harder against the transformer, which is located on the distributor cover.

Further exploration of electronics

In search of the reason why the VAZ-2107 does not start, it is necessary to further examine the electronics. If the issue is not the center wire ignition spark, you will need to remove the distributor cap. It is necessary to visually assess its internal state.

If dirt or condensation has accumulated under the distribution cover, the spark may not go where it should. To eliminate such violations, this space should be washed, dried and cleaned. The distributor contacts are also cleaned with fine sandpaper. If there is a dark mark on the slider or cover from an electrical shock, the part will need to be replaced.

Next, you should very carefully examine the wires going to the spark plugs. Their tips and all communications must be clean and dry. After this, the cover can be installed in its original place. The system is checked again. If all is unsuccessful, turn the candles out and clean them. Sometimes they will need to be replaced altogether.

Checking the contact distributor

The need to check the distributor-breaker arises if problems arise with sparking, but during the diagnostics of the ignition system elements the problem could not be identified.

Cover and rotor

First of all, we inspect the cover and rotor of the device. The check consists of the following steps:

We dismantle the distributor cover and inspect it inside and out. There should be no cracks, chips, or burnt contacts on it. If damage is found, the part must be replaced.
We check the carbon contact by pressing with a finger. It should press easily.
We check the rotor insulation for breakdown by placing the explosive wire from the coil near the rotor electrode and manually closing the contacts of the distributor, after turning on the ignition. If a spark appears between the cable and the electrode, the rotor is considered faulty.

contact Group

The main malfunctions of the ignition distributor contact group are burnt contacts and incorrect clearance between them. In case of burning, the contacts are cleaned with fine sandpaper. If they are severely damaged, it is better to replace them. As for the gap itself, to check it it is necessary to remove the cover of the distributor-breaker and turn the engine crankshaft so that the cam on the distributor shaft opens the contacts as much as possible. We check the gap with a feeler gauge and if it differs from the norm, then we adjust the contacts by unscrewing the corresponding screws and moving the contact plate.

The contacts are adjusted by unscrewing the corresponding screws and moving the contact plate

Capacitor

If a capacitor is installed on the distributor of your “six”, then sometimes the part can fail as a result of a breakdown. The malfunction appears as follows:

problems starting the engine;
sudden engine stop while driving.

If the distributor capacitor fails, engine operation malfunctions

You can check an element in the following ways:

Control lamp. Disconnect the wiring coming from the coil and the capacitor wire from the distributor according to the figure. We connect a light bulb to the open circuit and turn on the ignition. If the lamp lights up, it means that the part being tested is broken and requires replacement. If not, then it's OK.
Wire from the coil. Disconnect the wires as in the previous method. Then turn on the ignition and touch the tips of the wires to each other. When sparking occurs, the capacitor is considered faulty. If there is no sparking, then the part is working.

Diagnostics

To understand which part of the starter the breakdown occurred in, you should thoroughly clean it. First, the solenoid relay is checked. If it is working properly, a loud click will be heard. Another evidence of the serviceability of this mechanism is that the bendix moves slightly forward. The absence of a click indicates that the relay is broken and needs to be replaced with a new one.

If the problem is not in this part, then you need to make sure that all the insulation is in good condition. All damage can be restored with impregnating varnish and then checked with special electrical measuring instruments.

When, after a complete inspection, all parts are found to be in good condition, the rotor insulation must be checked. Traces of burning and soot on the anchor indicate that this device needs to be replaced. The collector must be clean, free of deposits, and if this defect is present, you can clean the element with sandpaper. After all procedures, the coupling is checked. It should spin freely in one direction and be locked in the other.

Troubleshooting

Troubleshooting in the ignition system of the VAZ “Six” should be carried out using the method of elimination, checking element by element sequentially. This is worth dwelling on in more detail.

Battery check

Since when starting a car, the power source is the battery, it is by checking this device that diagnostics should begin. Malfunctions with the battery appear when you try to start the engine. At this moment, the indicator lights on the instrument panel go out. The reason could be either poor contact on the terminals themselves, or simply a weak battery charge. Therefore, the condition of the terminals should be checked and, if you need to clean them, tighten the fastening. To prevent future oxidation, it is recommended to cover the contacts with a graphite coating. If the battery is discharged, it is charged using an appropriate device.

Spark plug wires

The next elements that require mandatory checking in case of problems with sparking are explosive wires. Upon external inspection, the cables should not show any damage (cracks, breaks, etc.). To assess whether a spark passes through the wire or not, you will need to remove the tip from the spark plug and place it near a ground (5–8 mm), for example, near the engine block, and crank the starter for a few seconds.

At this time, a powerful spark should jump. The absence of one will indicate the need to check the high-voltage coil. Since it is impossible to determine by ear which of the cylinders does not spark, the test should be performed one by one with all wires.

Video: diagnostics of explosive wires with a multimeter

Spark plug

Spark plugs, although infrequently, still fail. If a malfunction occurs, it is with one element, and not with all of them at once. If a spark is present on the spark plug wires, then to check the spark plugs themselves, they are unscrewed from the cylinder head of the “six” and an explosive cable is put on. The metal body of the spark plug touches the masses and turns the starter. If the spark plug element is working, then a spark will jump between the electrodes. However, it may also be absent from a working spark plug when the electrodes are filled with fuel.

In this case, the part needs to be dried, for example, on a gas stove or installed another one. In addition, it is recommended to check the gap between the electrodes with a feeler gauge. For a contact ignition system it should be 0.5–0.6 mm, for a contactless ignition system it should be 0.7–08 mm.

Ignition coil

To test the high-voltage coil, you need to remove the central cable from the distributor cover. By cranking the starter, we check for the presence of a spark in the same way as with the explosive wires. If there is a spark, then the coil is working and the problem should be looked for elsewhere. If there is no spark, the problem is possible both with the coil itself and with the low-voltage circuit. To diagnose the device in question, you can use a multimeter. For this:

We connect the probes of the device, switched on to the resistance measurement limit, to the primary winding (to threaded contacts). If the coil is working properly, the resistance should be about 3–4 ohms. If the values deviate from the norm, this indicates a faulty part and the need to replace it.

Low voltage circuit

The high potential on the ignition coil is formed as a result of applying a low voltage to its primary winding. To check the functionality of the low voltage circuit, you can use a tester (light bulb). We connect it to the low voltage terminal of the distributor and ground. If the circuit is working, then the lamp, when the ignition is on, should light up when the distributor contacts open and go out when they close. If there is no glow at all, then this indicates a malfunction of the coil or conductors in the primary circuit. When the lamp lights up, regardless of the position of the contacts, the problem may be the following:

damage to the conductor that goes from the distributor terminal to the lever. Eliminated by restoring damaged wiring;
break in the conductor running from the movable disk to the housing. The malfunction can be treated as in the previous paragraph;
oxide formation on contacts. In this case, cleaning and adjustment of the elements is required.

KpaHik › Blog › No spark from the ignition coil - possible reasons

A situation in which the engine does not start the first time, or does not start at all, can hardly be called pleasant. Experienced motorists know that any malfunction of the ignition system leads to partial and often even complete failure of the car engine.

So, if your car does not start the reasons:

• no current signals are sent to the ignition coil; • fuel does not reach the carburetor; • current from the ignition coil does not enter the distributor; • reason there is no spark from the ignition coil; • no spark passes between the electrodes of the spark plug; • fuel liquid does not enter the combustion chamber ;• the ignition distributor is broken.

The engine may also be blocked by the starter. But before checking the starter, inspect the condition of the electric motor winding; if it is not damaged, then the starter is most likely working

Pay attention to the ignition coil

The ignition coil is the converter of low voltage current to high voltage current in a vehicle's ignition system.

Malfunctions of the ignition coil are expressed by the following actions of the car:

• decrease in engine operating intensity; • problems in starting the engine; • sharp decrease in minimum engine speed, and interruption of its operation when idling the vehicle; • increase in fuel costs.

How to check the ignition coil.

Inspect this mechanism for oil stains and cracks. If the surface of the coil is not perfectly clean, wipe off the dirt with a dry cloth, otherwise it may cause high voltage leakage

Also pay attention to the ignition system wires; they must be dry and without external damage. Move the high-voltage wires with your hand and try to start the car. If it doesn’t work, then you’ll have to check the ignition system more carefully.

If this does not work, then you will have to check the ignition system more carefully.

To diagnose the condition of the spark plugs, take two high-voltage wires, having first removed them from the distributor cap. Place the wires at a distance of 5-7 mm from the car engine and wait for the reaction. If the system is fully operational, then when the starter is cranked, a blue spark will appear in this gap. If there is no spark or a color other than blue, check the ignition coil.

The coil is checked in the same way. Remove the wire that goes from the coil to the distributor-breaker (distributor), and, by analogy with checking the spark plugs, with the starter running, bring the wire to the ground of the car. If there is no spark from the coil, then it is faulty.

Connect the ignition coil to an ohmmeter to check for breaks in the wires. Check the primary and secondary windings. The absence of holes will be confirmed by the ohmmeter readings: 3 Ohms and 7000 Ohms in the primary and secondary windings, respectively. If the resistance is less than the standard values, then you are most likely in danger of replacing the ignition coil. Check that the coil wires are connected correctly and its insulation. If the wires are tangled together, correct this by untangling them and positioning them correctly. Use an ammeter to check the current in the circuit. To do this, connect the contacts of the distributor and turn on the ignition. The current strength displayed by the device should not be higher than that set for your car. If the current value is greater than the standard value, it means that there is a break in the coil winding caused by a short circuit.

A malfunction in the operation of the ignition coil most often occurs when the ignition system is turned on when the engine is turned off. As a result, the insulation of high-voltage wires overheats, cracks, and crumbles over time, thus causing a short circuit.

If a faulty ignition coil is detected, it can be repaired or replaced with a new one. Repairing the ignition coil consists of separating the mechanism into parts; checking for cracks, chips, scratches; cleaning up damage; restoring the ideal surface of the shell by gluing them with a special compound. Replacing the ignition coil with a new coil with exactly the same characteristics is possible. Connect the ignition coil with the utmost care, take special care to ensure the correct connection of the wires. Otherwise, the contacts may overheat and short circuit.

The appearance of a spark, correct readings of the ohmmeter and ammeter, indicate the serviceability of the unit being tested, and the breakdown of another component of the ignition system. The absence of a spark in the car system can also cause the following problem: the car does not start - the starter turns, there are cases when replacing the ignition switch helps.

Repair of VAZ 2106 distributor

On older VAZ 2106 cars, a contact distributor is installed, but such a system is not very reliable - due to malfunctions in the contact group (CG), various problems often arise:

due to burnt contacts, the engine may not start;
too large a gap in the CG affects engine power - the engine stops developing speed;
If there is a small gap in the contacts, the motor jerks and works unstably.

To repair the VAZ 2106 distributor, it must be removed and troubleshooting carried out. Removing the device on the “Classic” is very simple, but before repairing it, it is recommended to align the crankshaft to the mark - this will make it easier to install the distributor after repair. We remove the distributor as follows:

rotate the crankshaft until the marks align;
we pull off the tips of the high-voltage wires from the spark plugs;
unclip the two latches of the distributor cap and see what position the slider is in. If it is directed to the fourth cylinder, we make another full turn of the crankshaft. Usually, with correctly set marks, it should be located as in the picture below;
pull off the hose from the vacuum regulator;
unscrew the nut number 13, which holds the distributor, and dismantle the distributor.

Now the PR should be disassembled, perform the following operations:

unscrew the fastening screws of the runner, dismantle the rotor;
unscrew the nut located on the body, hold the screw on the other side of the body with a screwdriver;

dismantle the fasteners, take out the plastic insulator;
tighten the screws holding the contact group (KG);
dismantle the CG;
knock out the shaft pin;
remove the oil deflector and washer from the roller, pull the shaft out of the housing;
to get to the bearing, remove the locking washer of the ignition timing regulator rod from the top of the housing;
Unscrew the bolts securing the regulator, dismantle the ignition timing mechanism;
unscrew the screws (2 pcs.) that hold the bearing fixing plates;
dismantle the bearing, lifting it from different sides;

The disassembly is now complete, all that remains is to troubleshoot and replace worn parts.

Which distributor is suitable for the VAZ-2107

On all carburetor rear-wheel drive VAZ cars, the device has almost identical components and a similar operating principle. Distributors for engines with a volume of 1200-1300 cc differ in that: - the drive rod is 7 mm shorter; — no vacuum ignition timing regulator; — the settings of the weights and springs of the centrifugal regulator are different. For engines with a volume of 1500-1600 cc, all distributors are suitable in terms of mounting dimensions and characteristics. Only “Nivovskie” ones differ. They are tuned for stable traction at low speeds and the VAZ-2107 with such a distributor will accelerate slowly. The brands of “Nivovsky” distributors are: 3810.3706, 038.3706-10. And distributors of brands 0.3706 (contact) and 38.3706 (non-contact) are suitable for the “Seven” and other classic cars.

VAZ 2107 injector does not start

Diagnostic scanner. There is nothing complicated here. If there is an error, then everything is much simpler than when there are no errors at all. In this case, we check the part itself, and then the reasons, if it is working.
Ignition module. There are several methods worth trying to check, but the most reliable is to go to the store and take it with a receipt for verification. You can immediately talk about returning it if your own is in working order. Of course, not all stores will do this, but most will agree.
The VAZ engine does not start for one reason. This is quite common among car enthusiasts. The control unit contains two transistors, each of which is responsible for a pair of cylinders. Most often they burn out at the same time, and the spark disappears completely.

If the spark plugs are dry, then you need to see if voltage is supplied to the injectors, first. To do this, remove the connector from one, connect the tester probes to the connector and ground.
After you are convinced of this, you need to measure the pressure in the fuel rail.
Most likely this is the problem. Therefore, you need to check the fuel pump, first of all, the fuse that is responsible for it.
It is easier to check the fuel pump by replacing it with a known good one, as with the ignition module.

Ignition system failures

The starter may turn briskly, but the engine will not start. The VAZ-2107 (carburetor or injector) most likely cannot move due to the fuel supply system or its ignition. It is better to start with the latter when diagnosing. This system in the presented model fails more often. This is especially true in wet weather.

The contact system of the “seven” can be very different. There are cars with the simplest device (classic) or with a very complex electronic contactless principle. There are also combined options.

In any case, the ignition system will consist of 4 parts. This is a low-voltage group, step-up transformer (coil). Next comes the high-voltage part and spark plugs. The check is carried out step by step (and better from the end).

Effect of temperature

Often the VAZ-2107 does not start in winter. This problem can be caused by the wrong choice of oil viscosity or its thickening in the gearbox. It becomes difficult for the starter to turn it in the system.

If the oil viscosity is not suitable, it may cause engine failure. Therefore, in cold weather you should be very careful when selecting lubricants. In winter, in order for the car to start quickly, you need to squeeze the clutch all the way. The mechanism will spin the gearbox shafts, preparing the car for movement.

It is in winter that compression problems are detected in the cylinders. It is necessary to remove the candles. Then a little oil is poured into the cylinders. Now you should try to start the car again. Next, the candles are returned to their place. Experienced car enthusiasts claim that this method almost always works.

Solving the problem yourself

There are quite a few reasons why the VAZ-2107 starts and stalls or does not move at all. You can easily find the problem yourself. But for this you need to be patient, the necessary tools and enough free time. If trouble catches the owner of a car when he is in a hurry about his business, it is better to take another car. It will be possible to repair this later, when there is enough time to carry out diagnostics.

It does not matter whether the carburetor or injection engine is installed on this model. Diagnostics is carried out in any case according to a single scheme.

First of all, you need to pay attention to the battery, whether it is charged. Also, the battery may fail for some reason.

Next, the spark plugs and fuel filters are inspected. You can also check the throttle valve. There may be a blockage in it. This is the simplest test, which sometimes immediately reveals a malfunction. If the cause cannot be determined, a more in-depth diagnosis will be required.

Let's sum it up

Spark plugs play a vital role in the performance of a vehicle. If at least one spark plug fails and does not produce a spark, accordingly, one of the cylinders will not work, the car will have increased fuel consumption and will be less dynamic. Finding the reason for the disappearance of the spark is a very difficult task, since several units may be “to blame” for this. However, for normal functioning this is simply necessary.

What to do if there is no spark on a VAZ-2106 car? As is known, this phenomenon leads to the fact that the air-fuel mixture does not ignite and the engine stops starting. Therefore, you will have to look for the causes of the problem without fail.

On VAZ cars, and on the “six” in particular, the spark can disappear due to a variety of malfunctions. But in this article we will describe only the most common of them, and also give useful tips for identifying and troubleshooting problems.

Implications in practice: catalyst

Misfires cause premature failure of the catalyst. The low quality of materials used in the production of the insulator and resistive filler leads to accelerated degradation of the spark plug. Even if its characteristics meet the manufacturer’s requirements at the beginning of operation, over time, the spark energy may not be enough to reliably ignite the air-fuel mixture, resulting in misfires and an increase in the content of unburned fuel in the exhaust gases. Part of the air-fuel mixture burns out in the exhaust manifold and catalyst, which leads to an increase in temperature inside these elements. Overheating leads to failure of the catalytic converter and oxygen sensors installed in the exhaust system.