VAZ-21103 - a modification of one of the most popular AvtoVAZ models in its entire history


At the turn of the 20th-21st centuries, the plant in Tolyatti produced passenger cars, which later received the common name “Lada 110”. The next after this family is considered to be the “Priora”, which received many parts from the “ten” and its own, deeply modernized units with different capabilities and sores. As with earlier or later cars, VAZ did not limit itself to one version. The tenth had modifications, one of which was the VAZ 21103. We will look at the technical characteristics of this car a little later.

This car did not have climate control, an on-board computer and other things included in the basic equipment of a modern car. Nevertheless, it was the first car that looked like a foreign car. The plant still uses this body today, but current machines no longer have digital indices.

Main differences

In addition to bodies, the “ten”, and then the following models, received other innovations. Almost 2110 became the first-born car, like the “penny” in its time. The car received ventilated brakes, galvanized bodywork, a gasoline vapor recovery system, space for air conditioning and other innovations. VAZ 21103, in addition to this, received more powerful heaters and an ABS system. It was possible to order air conditioning and power steering.

But besides this, all 103 cars received injection engines from models 2111-2112 (see picture). Installing this system immediately allowed us to save on fuel. Current VAZs have other sizes, but 21103 is still running, and its owners can easily find information about their car.

Pros and cons of a 16-valve engine

The basic version and the first modification 21002 were equipped with 8-valve engines, that is, each cylinder had 2 holes (intake and exhaust). These units were equipped with a single camshaft driven by a belt or chain. This ensures simplicity of design. Therefore, for the first Lada 110 models, repairs by yourself are much easier. If there is a repair manual, you don’t have to resort to the help of service station workers.

The 8-valve design does not have automatic hydraulic compensators. This allows you to use cheaper gasoline and oil. In the 16-valve injection engine of the VAZ 21103, repairs are ensured in a short time if you fill in inappropriate fuels and lubricants. After all, foreign impurities in a short period of time can form carbon deposits on hydraulic compensators, which will render them inoperable. True, manual adjustment of the thermal clearances of an 8-valve engine takes time. In addition, such an engine can make unnecessary noise.

The advantages of the 8V engine include the small dimensions of the intake system; these elements do not block access to attachments. But in the case of VAZ 21103 and VAZ 21104, repairing the generator or starter is difficult due to the dimensional parts of the intake system. This fact has been repeatedly confirmed by service station specialists who often repair components and assemblies of the VAZ 2110.

Salon and external data

Like the older model, the VAZ 21103 received front-wheel drive, a sedan body, 4 doors, 5 seats. The car could be chosen in three trim levels - “Standard”, “Norma”, or “Lux”. “Standard” was not much different from the base model and is described above. “Norma” - the middle configuration, received electric windows, metallic colors, headrests in the rear seat and velor upholstery, which, according to many users, turned out to be so successful that there was no need to put covers on the seats. The luxury kit received all the features of the average configuration, as well as electric mirrors, fog lights, alloy wheels (14 inches) and an on-board computer (!!!). Also among the little things we can note a slightly improved unit between the front seats and heated front seats.

Based on the VAZ 21103, several more one-piece versions of the executive class appeared. Limousine 21109 “Consul” and stretch sedan (extended sedan) 21108 “Premier”. Both have a partition between the front and rear seats, typical for cars of this class. The Lincoln also has a middle section between the front and rear doors, and the stretch features an extended roof and rear doors, as well as a small window behind them.

We also note that other factories also produced this machine under a VAZ license. This is how armored sedans and even the all-wheel drive 4x4 Lada Tarzan-2 were born. This model is also of interest to tuning studios. About 5 separate tuning kits are produced for it.

Electronic Component Compatibility

Since the controllers were produced by different manufacturers, many of them differ not only technically, but also commutatively:

  1. They have their own connector that is not compatible with other controllers;
  2. They differ in the number of contacts and wires;
  3. They have different mode algorithms (no hardware compatibility);
  4. Controllers of recent years have built-in switches, while earlier models were built on ignition modules.

In particular, Bosch MP7.0:

  1. originally created for LADA 110 cars sold in foreign markets;
  2. has a 55-pin connector;
  3. does not contain either software or hardware compatibility with other units;
  4. is able to work after modernization on other types of ECM.

Other controllers such as Bosch M1.5.4, VS 5.1 and January 5.1:

  1. are software incompatible with each other;
  2. have different firmware;
  3. but they can replace each other (in this case the engine operation algorithm will change).

For reference: each controller has its own hardware implementation of the fuel injection algorithm. Most often, one of three is implemented: either simultaneous injection, or phased or pairwise - parallel injection.

Each injection algorithm has its own characteristic features:

  1. equipped with a special ECU;
  2. flashed with a specific software version;
  3. Comes with separate wiring.

Engine parameters

As already written, the injector has become the main difference of the new VAZ 21103. 1.5 16v - characteristics of other engine parameters. Let's decipher them: volume 1.5 liters; 16 valves (versus 8 in the first “ten”); V-shaped pistons.

Additionally, you can indicate that the engine itself has 4 cylinders, 4 valves per cylinder. Note that almost all modern cars now have the same piston arrangement. In the urban driving cycle you will need 8-9 liters per 100 km. Outside the city, consumption does not exceed 6 liters. Since the car is quite old, the engine is designed to refuel AI-92 (some reviews indicate 95). The gas tank volume is 43 liters, the engine power is 93 hp, which gives acceleration to 100 km in 12.5 seconds. Manual gearbox, 5 steps.

Review of VAZ 21103 (2001)

Replacing pistons on 2112 with pistons with deep grooves.

Hello to all car enthusiasts and visitors to this resource. I would like to dedicate this work to those who drive a VAZ 2112 engine and are very worried about the timing belt.

I’ll start with the fact that I have a VAZ 21103 2001 for personal use. with a mileage of 150,000 km. At first I traveled mainly around Moscow and no further than 100 km. from her. At that time, the issue of bent valves was not particularly concerning, since I worked at a car depot and had the opportunity, in case of a surprise from the belt, to repair the engine efficiently without any special expenses.

But, as they say, everything flows, everything changes. I moved from the car depot to work in the office, I rarely drove around Moscow by car, but with the changed family situation, almost all trips became outside the city and distances increased from 500 to 800 km. one way. And this is where paranoia began to slowly progress. Especially 350 kilometers from the city and somewhere in January-February. Many will say that you need to monitor the strap and change it in advance. I completely agree with this, but we live in Russia with our “truly Russian” mentality. The components are made with the calculation in mind - well, we’ll sell you a good strap, but the rollers, of course, will be an eccentric, otherwise we also need to sell the valve kit, and I have a relative who works at a car service center, who also wants to eat. In general, this all means that you still can’t get inside the roller and the pump, but you want to drive more or less confidently.

You can, of course, buy a foreign car or a Korean, many will say, but I don’t really need a new car right now. I put the “ten” in the yard and don’t worry too much about it. I sometimes have it for two weeks without moving. Work is across the street, there are plenty of shops all around. I no longer see any point in selling this car due to its age. You still can’t ask for much for it, but you don’t want to give it for pennies. For 8 years there is not even a hint of rust on it. My wife will go learn her license and let her ride.

In general, all this is the lyrics and motivation for my next “innovative” implementations in my car. At one time I took the subject “Internal Combustion Engines” and was familiar with the basic principles of operation of this unit, kinematics and processes occurring in it first-hand. I decided this: I’ll get into the engine, change the pistons, and if I don’t like it, I’ll put everything back together. Moreover, it will still work, and I don’t need any “street racing” properties from it. Nerves are more expensive.

I want to delve a little deeper into the issue of a broken belt, for those who are not very knowledgeable about it, but are very interested. This means we have a VAZ 2112 92 hp engine. With. 1.5 l. 16 valves phased injection. If the timing belt breaks, in 99.9% of cases we have several bent valves, a broken car, changed plans for the near future and are unable to continue driving, and also do not have several thousand rubles intended for other purposes (from 10 and above). And when there are children and elderly relatives in the car, it’s winter outside and everyone starts telling you what kind of “dumpster” you have, it becomes a little offensive and cold, and you still have to look for someone who will drag it to the service center.

Why does the timing belt break?

  • From a jammed pump.
  • From poor quality manufacturing of the belt itself.
  • From jammed rollers.
  • From the wear of shaft gears (crankshaft and camshaft).
  • From foreign objects getting into the timing drive.
  • From an overtightened or undertightened timing belt.
  • From leaking drive shaft seals (crankshaft and camshaft).

How to check the condition of the timing belt.

In principle, you can look under the timing cover hatch once a week and listen to the sounds coming from the drive and not only. The rollers usually start to squeak when cold, then rustle, and then fall apart. The pump begins to leak (belt in coolant). The shaft seals are leaking (the belt is covered in oil). The shafts wear out - the belt begins to slide to the side and rub against the roller flange (a characteristic grinding sound when cold). Also, the belt can slip due to crooked rollers and because of the crooked itself. From personal experience, I recommend using “Balakovo” belts and “VBF” Vologda rollers. The main thing is to buy them in stores that value their reputation. Buy a pump from 600-700 rubles. We immediately bypass domestic ones for 300-400 rubles - they do not last long, and the price of the issue in case of breakdown is steep. In general, these are tips for those who do not dare to get into the engine and prefer to leave the factory equipment on the car.

Actually replacing the pistons itself. For those who will do everything themselves. If you do it in a car service, then you don’t have to read it.

I would like to warn you right away that by replacing the original 2112 pistons with 21124 pistons with a deep groove, we depower the engine, i.e. we take away several hp from it. and reduce its torque (this is in N/M). I preferred pistons from 21124 pistons.

They are divided into groups A, B, C, D and E and have fingers included, i.e. the problem with selecting fingers is solved. The price of the set is 900 rubles. We select a group of pistons based on the removed pistons. We look at the group and buy the same one if the mileage is no more than 100,000 km. If the mileage is higher, then it makes sense to buy pistons of the next group. It all depends on the degree of production of the CPG (cylinder-piston group). If you do it yourself, use a bore gauge; if you do it at a service center, then the motor mechanic is aware of these manipulations. I did everything myself in the garage, so I relied on my personal experience and intuition. Please do not judge strictly, everything was done for the sake of experiment and personal interest. All measurement parameters and further methods of action can be found on the Internet. The main requirements for the CPG are that the pistons should not dangle in the cylinder, but ideally should smoothly lower under their own weight. Accordingly, if there is an ellipse and the pistons in the cylinders are loose, then boring is indispensable. But, as they say, let's not talk about sad things. Everything worked out for me by replacing group B pistons with group C pistons. The mileage at that time was 150,000 km, but apparently good oil and an individual oil nozzle for each cylinder did their job. Flat-top cylinder honing, used in the production of these engines, also significantly increases the service life of the internal combustion engine. With proper operation along the way, these engines can easily travel 300,000 km. It's my personal opinion.

Also don't forget to buy:

  • Head gasket.
  • Exhaust manifold gasket.
  • Oil pan gasket.
  • Rings for injectors.
  • Sealant.
  • Half rings.
  • Connecting rod bearings (nominal).
  • Piston rings D 82 mm.
  • Rollers, pump, belt if necessary.
  • Oil seals (if you want to replace them).
  • Be sure to buy a ring mandrel (to push the pistons into the cylinders, a very useful thing).

Actually, I will not delve into the process of disassembling and assembling the engine. For those who repair a car themselves and have at least some idea of ​​its structure, there are no pitfalls. Just remember to mark the wires for yourself so you don’t forget to put them in place. In general, all sensors have their own individual plugs. You can only make a mistake with the oil pressure and coolant temperature sensor. There is one at the top and one at the bottom of the thermostat. In general, in order for the engine to work, it needs pressure in the ramp and a signal from the DPKV. He will remind you of the remaining sensors with a CE light.

Also, be sure to not forget about the markings on the piston. The arrow points towards the belt. We stretch the block head, connecting rods and the third crankshaft journal (removed to replace the crankshaft thrust half-rings) using a torque wrench with the appropriate torque. We look at the moment in the repair manual. I didn’t use it (the key), because this was not the first motor I had assembled and I had accumulated little experience in tightening critical components of the car. Please do not judge strictly, the engine is mine, I do what I want ;-). After installing the cylinder head, I specially twisted the shafts. The clan does not reach the pistons. The goal of the experiment has been achieved.

Impressions after running in:

  • Consumption has increased slightly. XX - 0.8. City 9.8. Highway at 90-120 km/h - 6.2.
  • Traction - at the bottom the torque increased, after 3000 rpm the “shot” decreased, but not much. The 16 valve is still felt.
  • 92 gasoline is now native (since the volume of the combustion chamber has been increased).

No global changes were noticed. My driving style is calm. But on long trips it became much calmer.

PS. Guys, I ask you not to judge strictly. As for the fact that they are not fools at the plant and if they did it, then it must be so. The fact that most foreign cars have bent valves is a tribute to Euro-3 and higher. I'm aware of all this. Just why did I do all this justifiably above.

PS 2. One more thing. In terms of costs, this entire event cost 2500 rubles. I did not change the valve stem seals, because they were changed not so long ago. I also did not change the belt with rollers and pump, since their mileage at the time of this event was 3000 km. Time from 9.30 to 22.30.

Thanks to everyone who read. Good luck on the roads.

See photos of this event above.

Other technical data

We looked at the interior configurations and engine capabilities of the VAZ 21103 (1.5 16v). The technical characteristics of other options do not require special decoding, so we will simply rewrite them in a few lines. Trunk volume 450 l. Considering that the cover reaches almost to the bumper itself, and it is possible to fold the rear seats, both standard and long cargo can be placed here. Ground clearance 160 mm. Width 1700 mm, height 1400 mm, length - 4300. Front disc and rear drum brakes. The front suspension is independent McPherson, the rear wheels are slightly recessed, so the front track is 1410 mm, rear - 1380.

VAZ 2110

I continue my entertaining epic on the topic of the wonderful vehicle VAZ-2110. For those who have not read it yet, I suggest you read the treatise dated January 28, 2004, written by a certain Alex. A certain Alex is me and the last essay ends with something like “and I bought a new VAZ-21103 Lux”... let's continue...

The car was purchased on January 21, 2004 at a Moscow car dealership (well, where everything is fair

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