Is it necessary and possible to wash a car engine?
When operating a car, owners often think about washing the power unit, since over time it becomes covered with dust and oil sometimes gets on it, as a result of which the appearance of the unit becomes not very attractive. Since engine washing is a responsible process, all the nuances are worth considering in more detail.
Why wash
Despite the fact that there are many supporters and opponents of engine washing, it is necessary to highlight the following negative aspects that arise due to contamination of the unit:
- deterioration of heat transfer. Due to the thick layer of dirt and dust, the engine housing is less cooled by the cooling fan;
- reduction in power. Due to poor heat transfer, motor power is reduced;
- increase in fuel consumption. A decrease in power is inextricably linked with an increase in fuel consumption. In addition, the service life of many engine components is reduced;
- increased fire hazard. The accumulation of contaminants on the outer surface of the power unit can cause spontaneous combustion, since dust and oil settle on the surface of the unit, which heats up during operation.
The listed problems indicate the need for periodic cleaning of the unit.
Engine contamination reduces heat transfer and power, increases fuel consumption
Frequency of the procedure
It is recommended to wash the engine in the following situations:
- in case of severe contamination of the unit due to failure of lip seals, pipes, etc.;
- in order to determine worn seals, as well as leaks of technical fluids;
- before major overhaul of the power unit;
- when preparing a car for sale.
From the above points it can be understood that the engine is washed only as a last resort. There is no specific frequency: it all depends on the operating conditions of the vehicle and its features.
The engine is washed when it is heavily contaminated with dust and oil.
How to properly wash the engine
It will be quite difficult for a person without experience in this matter to cope with the task. But by reading the instructions on how to properly wash the engine and following its points, you can achieve the desired result.
If we take into account the fact that not every service station specialist is able to professionally cope with the task of washing the engine, and the service station does not take responsibility for the serviceability of the car, then it is better to carefully study the mechanism of the procedure and carry out it yourself.
Rules for washing the engine:
- Insulate components that are not resistant to moisture using polyethylene and tape. It is necessary to close the engine control unit, generator, air filter, battery, and electrical wiring.
- Treat hard-to-reach parts with a spray with a water-repellent composition.
- Warm up the engine to operating temperature. It is prohibited to wash the engine in a cold or hot state; this can lead to deformation of the cylinder head. The most suitable temperature is 40 C.
- Apply the cleaning compound to the engine and the walls of the engine compartment.
- After the time specified in the instructions for use of the chemical, remove the product with a damp towel or a small amount of water. The temperature of fluids applied to the engine must correspond to the temperature of the engine.
Instructions on how to properly wash the engine yourself can be obtained from a service station. In this case, it is imperative to follow safety rules: the upper respiratory tract must be protected from ingress of detergent vapors, since its composition is unsafe for the human body.
Engine problems after washing
Sometimes after washing, various problems arise in the operation of the power plant, which are expressed as follows:
- the engine does not start or stalls;
- the engine is unstable (idle speed fluctuates, there are twitches);
- the oil pressure light comes on;
- "check" is on.
If, after washing the unit, all electrical connections are restored, the starter turns and the fuel pump runs, but the engine does not start, then attention should be paid to the following:
- on cars equipped with an ignition distributor, you need to get rid of water under the distributor cover by wiping or blowing. They also dry the high-voltage wires, turn out and inspect the spark plugs, and remove moisture from the spark plug wells;
- on machines in which the ignition coils are installed separately for each cylinder, you need to dismantle and dry each part separately. Otherwise, perform actions similar to the previous paragraph;
- when the engine stalls (one of the cylinders does not work), a drop in power is felt, and the operation of the unit is accompanied by strong vibration. In addition, twitching of the car itself is possible. The most common reasons for this behavior are possible due to problems with the ignition system discussed in the first paragraph. If drying does not help, the reasons may be due to a malfunction of one of the motor sensors;
- if the speed fluctuates, this indicates problems with the throttle valve or its position sensor. In this case, cleaning and drying of the elements is required, as well as disconnecting the battery terminals for 10–15 minutes;
- The oil pressure light on the dashboard may come on due to moisture getting on the oil sensor itself or its contacts;
- The “check” indication indicates a malfunction of the motor. The fault can be determined only after diagnosing the unit by reading errors from the computer at a service center.
If the check light comes on, this indicates a problem with the engine.
Sometimes problems that arise after washing the engine go away on their own as a result of the unit completely drying.
Which auto chemical products are suitable?
There are two types of liquids that can be used:
- Specialized. Such compositions are developed specifically for certain types of pollution. For example, if you need to remove oily deposits, then the appropriate product will do the job perfectly, but it will be useless against other contaminants. Specialized formulations are more suitable for heavy, old contaminants.
- Universal. Suitable for complex treatment, however, due to the fact that they are not directed against a specific type of pollution, sometimes it is necessary to carry out the washing again. Universal type preparations can be used if the engine is not very dirty.
Healthy! When processing it yourself, you can also use regular dishwashing detergent. It effectively removes fatty inclusions, does not contain too aggressive components (will not harm plastic and rubber components) and is inexpensive.
Detergent compositions are sold in different containers. However, if you buy a 5-liter canister, it will be very inconvenient to use (you will have to first pour some liquid into a smaller bottle). Therefore, the best option is considered to be compositions in the form of sprays, which allow you to apply the liquid evenly:
- STP 73500EN (spray). A 0.5 liter bottle is enough for several uses. The product (costs about 450 rubles) is suitable for a car, SUV or minibus. After applying the composition you need to wait 15 minutes. After this, the product will remove up to 85% of complex dirt and grease.
- Motorraum-Reiniger (spray from Liqui Moly). A container with a volume of 0.4 liters will cost 630 rubles. The drug is also applied for 15-20 minutes. During this time, it actively breaks down fatty deposits, road dust and oily stains. At the same time, as the manufacturer himself states, a 100 percent result can be achieved. However, this liquid is often counterfeited, so you need to make sure that the composition is really branded.
- LAVR. A domestic product costs about 900 rubles per 5 liters. This is a concentrate that is suitable for all types of contaminants and prevents the formation of corrosion. The composition cannot be applied in its pure form; it must first be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:3.
Healthy! Car shampoos, which are successfully used to wash the car body, are not recommended, as they often contain rather aggressive reagents.
In addition to the liquid, before processing the engine you will need foil, sponges, gloves, rags and brushes (only soft products can be used, so metal sponges should be abandoned).
What can you wash with?
Some people use a soap base with kerosene as a cleaning agent. But it will still be more effective and safer to use not improvised means, but to purchase a special product. There are two types of cleaning chemicals:
- specialized (for example, exclusively for plastic and rubber parts or only for oil removal);
- universal (most suitable for complex cleaning in one wash).
Specialized chemicals should be purchased only in case of very strong local contamination. For example, a gasket has broken and oil stains need to be washed off. In other cases, it is recommended to use universal, complex products.
It is advisable to find a product that comes in a can that can be used as a spray. This form of release is as convenient as possible for the human hand, and even hard-to-reach areas can be captured by spraying.
Selecting a detergent
The most common mistake is to use regular car shampoo to wash the engine. It is recommended to use only special detergents for engines. They are divided into three large groups.
- Sprays or foam for dry car engine washing. They are sold in high pressure cans.
- Special shampoo for washing engines. It is considered the best option for wet cleaning.
- Shampoo 2in1. It can be used for both the body and the engine. This is not the best option, since it is done taking into account the possibility of washing the paintwork, which means it may not wash away some contaminants on the power unit.
Choose a detergent based on how you intend to wash the engine, as well as the need to save money. If you need to reduce costs, you can purchase a universal shampoo.
Important!
You can often find recommendations for washing the engine with washing powder or dishwashing detergent. These substances are not intended for cleaning engines, and it is completely unknown how the components of the powder or dish soap will interact with car parts. Using improvised means, you risk getting a whole series of breakdowns, both offensive and unexpected.
Preparatory work
- Clear the engine compartment of accumulated sand, leaves and lint.
- All easily removable elements - the plastic cover of the motor, the fuse box - must be removed and washed outside with shampoo and water.
- Accessible surfaces of the body and engine, as well as wires and rubber elements, should be cleaned with a cloth. In case of heavy contamination, a rag can be moistened with WD-40. The priority is accuracy and lack of haste.
When the preparatory work is completed, you can begin washing.
Step by step process
Treat the engine surface with a brush or apply a cleaning solution from a spray bottle. If the product is in the form of a spray, then try to reach all hard-to-reach places. After this, soak a sponge or cloth in the solution and wipe the dirty surfaces.
Leave the treated engine compartment so that the dirt can eat away, but it is important not to let the solution dry out.
You can wash off the solution with a hose with low pressure (preferably with a nozzle that divides the water flow into many streams), but it is advisable to stock up on a Karcher or come to a self-service car wash in advance.
When washing off chemicals, try to limit the contact of water on electrical equipment and contacts as much as possible. You should be prepared for the fact that you won’t be able to remove all the dirt the first time, especially if the engine has rarely been washed before.
In hot weather, you can leave the car to dry, or wipe everything with a dry cloth or paper towels. Electrical connectors and contacts should be given special attention during drying.
Frequency of the procedure
Many car enthusiasts believe that they only need to wash the area under the hood before undergoing maintenance or immediately before selling. Indeed, there are no clear regulations here.
Each car owner sets the frequency of the procedure for himself. The most favorable frequency would be to wash once a year, especially after the winter period.
Advice! It is in winter that the main layer of dirt, salt and sand accumulates. In autumn, fallen leaves and small twigs will definitely appear under the hood. In spring, the fluff of flowering plants will fill up. Therefore, it is advisable to wash the engine at the beginning of summer and repeat the procedure annually.
