Replacing the silent block of the front suspension arm of VAZ 21083

Silent blocks are elements of a car's suspension, consisting of two metal bushings separated by a rubber or polyurethane insert, designed to make the car's movement more comfortable and reduce noise when driving. These parts are installed in the moving parts of the suspension, and they are constantly exposed to mechanical stress. In VAZ 2101-2107, the front silent blocks most often suffer under loads, and the problem can be solved independently, without resorting to the use of special tools and the services of service station technicians.

When is it necessary to replace silent blocks?

If you hear a distinct knocking sound in the suspension while driving, you may need to replace the silent blocks of the front control arms on VAZ classic models. Upon inspection, they may be deformed, the rubber is torn or covered with deep cracks, and the lever moves from its original position. Silent blocks are not repaired; if they fail, they must be replaced, fortunately they are not expensive.

Damage to the silent blocks makes the ride less comfortable, reduces the level of safety due to deterioration in handling, as play appears on the arms, the suspension becomes looser and the wear of the front tires sharply increases, and this is another signal that the silent blocks of the front suspension will need to be replaced.

Removing and installing the lower front suspension arm on a VAZ 2107

parts for fastening the lower arm of the front suspension of a VAZ 2107

1 — self-locking nut M14x1.5 (12574811); 2 — thrust washer (2101-2904045); 3 — silent block (2101-2904040); 4 — thrust washer (2101-2904035); 5 — axis of the lower lever (2101-2904032); 6 — spring washer (10517070); 7 — adjusting washer (2101-2904225/28); 8 — nut M12x1.25 (16101511); 9 — right lever (2101-2904020-01)

We remove the lower arm of the front suspension from the VAZ 2107 in case of mechanical damage or to replace silent blocks. To complete the work, you will need a device for pressing out and pressing silent blocks into the lower arm.

Removing the lower front suspension arm from a VAZ 2107

1. We prepare the VAZ 2107 car for operations (see “Preparation of the VAZ 2107 car for maintenance and repair”). 2. Remove the wheel from the VAZ 2107 (see “Wheel of the VAZ 2107 - replacement”). 3. Remove the front suspension spring from the VAZ 2107 car (see “Front suspension spring of the VAZ 2107 car—replacement”). 4. Using a 22 mm socket wrench, unscrew the two self-locking nuts of the lower arm axle and remove the thrust washers.

5. Using a 19 mm socket wrench, unscrew the two nuts securing the lower arm axle to the cross member and remove the thrust washers.

6. Using a mounting spatula, press the axis of the lower arm from the cross member and remove the arm.

Between the axle and the cross member (on the axle mounting bolts) there are washers necessary for adjusting the wheel alignment angles. They should not be removed from the bolts unless necessary. If washers need to be removed, their location should be marked. 7. When replacing the lower front suspension arm on a VAZ 2107 car, remove the ball joint from the lever (see “Ball joints on a VAZ 2107 car - replacement”). When replacing silent blocks, the ball joint does not need to be removed. 8. Install the lower arm in a vice. To press out the silent block, screw the puller bolt onto the lever axis. The supporting part of the glass should rest against the lower arm. While holding the bolt from rotating, tighten the puller nut and press the silent block into the glass.

9. Similarly, press out the silent block from the opposite side of the lever and remove the axle.

Installing the lower front suspension arm on a VAZ 2107

1. Having changed the position of the puller parts, we press the silent block into the lower arm of the front suspension.

2. Through the free hole in the lower suspension arm, insert the axle with thrust washers.

3. From the side of the pressed silent block, install an outer thrust washer on the axle and screw in a new self-locking nut without tightening it. 4. Having changed the position of the puller parts, we press the second silent block into the lever.

Tool for replacing the lower silent block

In our case, we will not use a specialized silent block remover for a VAZ, but will make do with a tool that can be found in any garage. To replace the lower silent blocks on the front arm, you will need:

1. For a pry bar with a length of at least 50 cm, or longer, you can use a crowbar if the dimensions of the pit allow.
2. A heavy hammer or sledgehammer with a strong, preferably metal handle.
3. A set of wrenches for unscrewing nuts, you can use sockets or ratchet heads, a lever in the form of a long hollow pipe to develop the required force when tightening the nuts.
4. An attachment for seating and pressing in a new silent block; you can use a piece of thick-walled pipe 5-7 cm long that has a suitable diameter.

Sometimes there is an opinion that failure to use a puller and other specialized tools increases the risk of damage to the silent block being installed. But experience shows that with the right approach, replacement is carried out quickly in compliance with all technological requirements.

What you will need

It is advisable to use a special tool for removing and installing worn joints, but if you don’t have it, don’t despair. You can get by with a powerful vice, a set of standard tools, and a car jack. In addition, you should prepare:

1. Stands for the front of the car;
2. Metal brush;
3. Soap solution;
4. Gas torch or blowtorch.

This will be quite enough to carry out the replacement. To make it easier to remove bolts and nuts, pre-treat them with WD 40 liquid. While the car is being jacked up and the wheel is being removed, enough time will pass for the liquid to react at the threaded joints.

Experts recommend replacing all silent blocks at once, this will avoid additional costs and loss of time.

The process of replacing silent blocks

To replace the silent blocks of the lower control arms on VAZ classic cars, you need to drive the car into a garage or pit box, or use a lift. The fastening points of the parts are pre-treated with WD-40 lubricant, which must be left for a while to facilitate the removal of these parts. When processing, you need to make sure that the lubricant gets into the attachment points of the unit, this will make dismantling easier. During operation, the silent block may sour, and if it is not treated in advance, it will be difficult to remove it using a pry bar and a sledgehammer.

If the car is parked in a pit, it is jacked up under the beam to relieve the load from the wheels, supports are placed under the levers, and a safety block is installed under the jack to avoid injury in the event of the car falling off the supports under the levers. Using a 22 wrench, unscrew the nut holding the silent block in the lower arm. If the nut is soured, you can use a piece of pipe as an additional lever by placing it on the wrench. It is better not to throw away the original nuts, since new ones are often of poor quality and the threads break off, so sometimes it is better to install old ones. The same can be said about old washers, which are made of thick, durable metal, while the washers that come with new silent blocks are thinner and can be significantly deformed when tightened, which is unacceptable.

To dismantle the front silent block, the mount must be positioned so as to rest against the bolt of the beam and press forward towards the rear of the car. Since the pressing force on the mount will be small, it is necessary to periodically hit the lever near the silent block with a hammer, while pushing against it to create tension. After the silent block comes out of the socket, remove it, pushing it with a pry bar. In case of severe souring, the procedure will have to be done by two people: one person pulls the lever with a pry bar, the second knocks the silent block out of its socket.

Next, the silent block of the front beam is replaced; for this, the axle is lubricated with nigrol and a new part is put on it. Using a pry bar, the lever is raised so that the silent block can be guided into the socket. After this, an extension made of a thick-walled pipe of suitable size is put on it, which must be carefully hit with a hammer until the silent block sits in place. We hold the mount by the mounting bolt and press the lever, continuing to hit the mount with a sledgehammer until the part sits in the socket all the way to the stops.

We change the lower silent blocks from the reverse side, for which you first need to knock the short rod end off the steering column so that it does not interfere with work. Using a pry bar, pressing it against the nut, we move the lever in the same way to release the silent block. Similarly, we hit the lever with a hammer, pulling it with a pry bar until the silent block comes out of its socket, then push it with a pry bar until it is completely removed. Installation of a new silent block is carried out in the same way as in the front part of the lever, using an attachment made from a tube and a hammer, the axle and seat are pre-lubricated with nigrol.

Washers are placed on both silent blocks; if the old ones are in good condition and not deformed, it is better to install them, since the new ones are of very poor quality, they bend when the nuts are tightened, reducing the service life of the parts. After the nuts are tightened on both sides, the car is lowered from the jacks and needs to be rocked to check how the suspension works. In this case, the creaking and knocking should stop, and the suspension operation should return to normal.

When tightening the silent block nuts, it is better to load the front of the car, first on one side and then on the other, for which you will again need a partner. If it is not there, you can tighten it like that, but then the nuts will need to be tightened again. The nuts are tightened as tightly as possible; if necessary, a pipe is put on the wrench to develop maximum force. At the same time, the threads on low-quality nuts can be stripped. At the end of the work, you need to reinstall the previously removed steering rod.

Video: How to replace the silent blocks of the lower arms of a VAZ without a puller.

This method is quite labor-intensive, but does not require special tools such as a puller, or additional knowledge and skills. You can make the replacement yourself in your garage if it has a hole. In this case, you can use a simple tool that every driver has. The quality of work will be in no way inferior to replacement using a specialized puller. The shock absorber silent block and other similar parts are replaced using similar principles. This technique is suitable for VAZ classic series 2101-2107.

Seal

Suspension upgrade

Those car owners who for some reason are not satisfied with its performance, for example, due to its softness or if they want to give the car a certain sporty character, are thinking about improving the suspension of their car.

Reinforced springs

Sometimes it becomes necessary to install springs of greater rigidity on a car, i.e. reinforced ones. This is done to increase the load capacity or to make the car more assembled. Greater rigidity is ensured by using larger diameter rods in the manufacture of springs.

Since the VAZ 2101 is not particularly suitable for transporting goods, recently reinforced springs have been installed as a tuning element.

The essence of modernization comes down to replacing old springs with new ones, especially since today acquiring the necessary parts is not a problem. Among them are O, “Phobos”, Koni, SS20.

Diagnostics of silent blocks in the front control arms.

Why do silent blocks need to be changed over time? There are several reasons for this:

1. Over time, rubber loses its elastic properties and begins to crack.
2. During use of the machine or during its maintenance, oil got onto the silent block.
3. Incorrect installation of the part.
4. Driving on very bad roads, of which there are a great many in Russia.

Everything is diagnosed quite simply. The first thing that should alert you is the deterioration in the responsiveness of the steering wheel. But this may not be the case only, let’s look further. The second sign of dead silents, the wheels are standing like a house. On the pit or on the lift, check the integrity of the rubber bands (they should not have cracks and they should not be squeezed out). You can take a crowbar or a pry bar and try to move the levers. They should not have free movement (should not dangle).

General recommendations

Although the described work can be carried out alone, we still recommend involving a partner in it - this will seriously reduce the replacement time.

When setting up the machine, try to choose an extremely level area, and even in this case, be sure to secure its wheels with stoppers.

Always wear safety glasses when using a hammer and chisel. It will also be a good idea to get gloves - they keep your hands clean and are less likely to get injured.

Content

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Expert advice

Correctly performed replacement of silent blocks on VAZ 2107 vehicles will extend its service life and make travel safer and more comfortable. The tires wear out less and the car makes less noise. The operation of replacing silent blocks can be done with your own hands if you have some experience in car repair work.

Sources

• https://www.avtika.ru/qa/1103-snjatie-zamena-ustanovka-sajlentbloka-nizhnego-rychaga-perednej-podveski-vaz-classic
• https://remont-vaz2106.ru/vaz-2105-zamena-sajlentblokov-verxnego-rychaga-podveski
• https://expertvaz.ru/2107/zamena-saylentbloki-ryichag.html

Lower silent block

Replacing parts installed on the lower arm of a VAZ is a more labor-intensive process, because it cannot be removed, which means that all work will have to be done by weight.

The procedure is as follows:

• unscrew both nuts securing the lever;
• Install a puller on one side of it and pull out the silent block;
• do the same on the opposite side;
• install new parts and press them into the lever;
• screw the nuts, not forgetting to place thrust washers under them;
• return the wheel to its place;
• lower the car to the ground;
• tighten all previously tightened nuts until they stop.

Rod malfunctions

Actually, on the VAZ 2107, like on any other car, jet rods are installed so that the body does not “walk”, so that the driver’s safety is not at risk. And of course, like any other part, jet thrust can fail. The reason for this is most often the following factors:

1. Constant loads (they cannot be avoided in any case).
2. Torsional loads (for example, when hitting an obstacle).
3. Exposure to water or chemicals on the road.
4. It is important to periodically inspect the condition of the rods in order to promptly identify chips, deformation, and cracks.

All this is a sign that the part is failing and requires replacement. When inspecting, special attention should be paid to two parts - the eye (it is welded, which means it can break off more easily, because welding has its own service life) and silent blocks (they can break due to the load, after which the rod begins to move along the base, which means it stops performing its function).

The malfunction can be noticed by a knocking sound in the suspension that occurs while driving. When knocking occurs, you should immediately inspect the suspension for faults.

Of course, if you find a defect in the rods, you can contact a car repair shop, where they will replace the damaged part for a certain price. However, the replacement process itself is quite easy, and you can do it yourself.

Late replacement

It is important to remember what a breakdown of jet propulsion can lead to. If the linkage breaks, the car body immediately loses stability, which can lead to an accident.