April 10, 2017 Lada.Online 185 838 9
Currently, all LADA models (Lada XRAY, Vesta, Largus, Granta, Kalina, Priora, Niva 4×4) without exception are equipped with ABS (anti-lock braking system). During the operation of the car, many owners notice that the ABS and ESC lamps (if this system is available) light up on the instrument panel. Let's figure out how to solve this problem and improve the design.
How ABC works
The anti-lock braking system was developed when it became clear that when the wheels suddenly jam, the car loses stability and is difficult to control. Moreover, the quality of braking did not improve, and the car was pretty much carried off the road. Therefore, a system was developed that, by regulating the pressure in the brake system pipes, allows the wheels to turn slightly. This significantly improves vehicle dynamics, allowing the driver to control the vehicle more confidently. But despite its apparent simplicity, this is a rather complex process that requires the coordinated operation of many mechanisms included in the anti-lock braking system. If any of the components fails, a warning lamp lights up on the instrument panel.
You can often hear the question from drivers: “Why is the ABS sensor on?” It is important to know that when the warning light comes on, it does not necessarily indicate a faulty wheel sensor.
ABS error
Good luck to everyone, I haven’t checked in here for a long time) There’s not much to say on the topic - since the beginning of the year, I’ve been bothered by a recurring ABS error on bumps when braking. I have a Chinese ELM 327 - it does not pick up ABS errors. In general, for the last month the error was constantly on and I decided (for the first time in my life) to go to an authorized Lada-Detal service center for a 500-ruble diagnosis) They made a diagnosis - error C0110
pump fault error. They also offered to change the ABS unit + installation + bleeding of brakes + brake fluid for 15,000 rubles - I almost went crazy from such prices! All they can do is perform unit repairs, the devils! I drove into the garage and went on the Internet to look for the truth about collective farm adventures) from the first link, a colleague on the drive was already fooling around with this error and, on his advice, I decided to crawl under the hood and look at the fuse box near the battery. By the way, I changed the battery in September - instead of the factory one, Akom chose a Westa so that it would at least resemble Vesta under the hood)
So, to our knowledge - I gutted the fuse box near the battery, it came off easily, there was little dust
And here is the same 40A fuse, which also powers the ABS unit - one contact has burned out, albeit weakly
In the end, I cleaned it up, inserted it with my feet in the opposite direction and voila - there was no error for a week no matter how much bumps I slowed down)
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How ABC works on Lada Priora
Like most modern car systems, ABS is computer controlled. But in addition to the electronic control unit, it also includes several sensors and actuators. The entire system consists of several elements. 1
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Electronic control unit (ECU). 2
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Sensors on wheel hubs 4 pcs. 3
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Brake fluid pressure valves in the system 4 pcs. 4
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EVN (Electric Return Pump). 5
. Warning light on the instrument panel. Despite all its apparent simplicity, this is a rather complex, high-tech system. Each sensor transmits data on the rotation speed of the Priora wheel to the electronic control unit. Based on the data received, the control unit sends a signal to the brake system valve, which, when you press the brake pedal, releasing pressure, prevents the wheels from completely locking and starting an uncontrolled skid of the car.
The abs and handbrake light came on. Looks like it's decided!
I drove calmly, braked just as calmly, with a little blocking, but the abs seemed to work, and immediately these 2 lights appeared.
Abs stopped working. Then the lights disappeared. I braked sharply on purpose, the abs worked for a moment, then turned off and the lights came on again. The brake fluid is normal, the pads have 7 thousand miles (ferodo). Half the mileage on the highway.
I arrived for service, the diagnostics showed an error - uneven rotation of the wheels, and that the pump was not pumping well. We decided to start with the abs block to see what could be wrong with the pump. We disassembled it, the motor cover turned out to be coated with sealant, which means it has already been opened?! I learn more and more secrets. In short, everything was fine with the motor, we put it back together, pumped the brakes, the error disappeared. At this point, the first day of repair was completed, it took 4 hours, and 1200 for the work. Maybe this was the case, I thought, because they wrote to me here in the community about leveling. But still the error is uneven rotation...
We agreed that I would come again the next day to continue searching. It may seem that money was sucked out of me, but this is not so, the service is normal. In general, I arrived and started with the wheels, lifted them, spun them, the right rear wheel turned harder than the left one. In general, the problem is in the handbrake cable. I went and bought a set of cables and copper grease for the drums.
We were unable to take a photo of the abs sensor on the left wheel; it was melted. But I couldn’t find it in stock anywhere near the service center(. As luck would have it, the brake cylinder also started leaking on the rear, only the right wheel. It’s dangerous, of course, to drive like that, but I put it off for later. Still, copper grease will be needed more than once. You need a belt will change again. In general, the error never appeared. I paid 1000 rubles for the work. The brakes were bled using a new installation, and not “pump-hold-release.”
But I changed all the filters, while I was buying the cable I decided to take them, although I was going to do it on an existential basis. 3 filters came out to 865 rubles (all), on existential it would have worked out the same way, and Manov’s ones, except for the salon one.
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ABC control unit on Priora
Structurally, on the Priora, the ABS ECU is mounted together with the EWH and valves that regulate the pressure into a single unit - the hydraulic unit.
It is located on the front left side member of the vehicle. The hydraulic unit is connected to the entire system by a common wiring harness. It includes pipes for supplying brake fluid to the working cylinders. An EWH is also installed here, increasing the pressure in the system. This unit does not understand handicraft conditions. Usually replaced entirely with a new one.
Looking for a reason
You should start troubleshooting with the fuse. If this element burns out, the ABS does not work. Note that you should not always go into the fuse box, since the behavior of the system itself can give a “hint” regarding the serviceability of the fuse. For example, if the ABS light on the instrument panel comes on only under certain conditions, but after turning off the power to the ignition switch and restarting the engine, the problem disappears, then the problem is clearly not in the fuse. It should only be checked if the warning light is constantly on.
The sensors are located in a place that cannot be called well protected. Therefore, dirt sticking to it will easily cause a malfunction, causing the system to shut down.
Sensors may simply break during the process of repairing and servicing the chassis. Careless work and the use of impact tools during disassembly often cause internal damage to the sensors. Since they cannot be repaired, the damaged element will have to be replaced to restore ABS functionality.
The system can also shut down in an emergency due to the setting elements of the sensors. They are installed on the hub, and during operation they can also become covered with dirt, which will disrupt the functioning of the sensors. Inaccurate maintenance of the chassis can also lead to damage and destruction of the control elements, which will affect the performance of the ABS.
More often than not, the problem occurs due to wiring. Oxidation of contacts, chafing or interruption of wires coming from sensors - this leads to disruption of the system and the activation of a warning light. Sometimes, during the process of servicing the chassis, the wiring is disconnected from the sensors, and then they forget to connect it back. Therefore, when looking for the cause, inspect the wires for damage, their terminals, and only then pay attention to the sensors.
Malfunctions due to all of the above elements of the system are considered easy, since they are easy to fix and inexpensive. It's worse if the problem is caused by the control unit. In this case, you need to either reflash this element or replace it.
The anti-lock braking system fails due to damage to the components and assemblies near which the sensors are located. ABS is disabled if the wheel bearing is severely worn. Because of this, the hub has a lot of play, which leads to disruption of the ABS sensors, and this is the reason for the emergency shutdown.
Those who first switched from carburetor old cars to a brand new middle-class car are first scared when the ABS light comes on. For those who don’t know what ABS is, it’s clear that it’s an anti-locking system, but not everyone knows what it specifically does. Now we will describe everything in detail.
ABS sensor on the hub
The sensors that supply wheel speed data to the control unit are made on the principle of a Hall sensor. By the way, most rotation sensors use exactly this principle: changing the voltage on the semiconductor of the sensor, depending on the passage of a control point on the rotating disk near it. It is in correlation with the signals from the ABS sensors that the control unit manipulates the valves.
Self-diagnosis
Car diagnostic specialists recommend initially looking for the fault yourself. The first thing you should do is visit a car wash and thoroughly clean the rims and hubs, as well as the places where the ABS sensors are installed. Quite often after washing the system begins to work properly. If after this nothing happens, then you should move on to detailed diagnostics.
In order to find out why the anti-lock braking system malfunction signal occurs, you can use a very simple test. The vehicle is accelerated to a speed of approximately 100 kilometers per hour, then the radio is turned off and the windows are closed. If you hear a characteristic noise coming from the area of the front or rear wheels, then the hubs or bearings need to be replaced.
Additionally, you can check other nodes. Check the fuse box and, if there are faulty fuses associated with the anti-lock braking system, replace them. If possible, if the ABS light is on, try to determine the error code - using it you can quickly identify the element that is causing the problem.
It is also worth consulting with an experienced mechanic, describing to him the situation and the essence of the problem. Then you can try to restore the correct operation of the anti-lock braking system with your own hands.
Next, the sensors are checked. You may have to jack up the car and remove the wheels to access them. It would be a good idea to conduct a full inspection and tests of the electronic control system of the components in the car.
Electronics
This is a failure of components associated with electronics:
• breaks in the electrical wiring harness; • failure of rotation speed sensors; • break or short circuit of the control valve activation coil; • failure of the return pump electric motor; • valve activation relay failure; • program failure, or failure of the ABS control unit.
ABS FAULTS IN THE FIELD OF HYDROMECHANICS
In this case, the most typical failures are leakage of oil seals in various connections and assemblies. Deterioration of working surfaces on disks, and as a result, a change in the distance between the sensor and the readable surface. System valves jamming. Clogging of hydraulic drive pipes and breakdown of the working part of the return pump.
DETERMINING ABS MALFUNCTION
The serviceability of the ABS system in the Priora, like in any car, is a very important issue. It is very convenient that the slightest malfunction in its operation will immediately be reflected on the dashboard. The ABS warning light will come on or it will not go out after the required time after turning on the ignition.
There's no need to think twice about it. You urgently need to go for computer diagnostics to a decent service station. Modern Priora ABS ECUs have access to a diagnostic connector. They are perfectly diagnosed by both portable portable scanners and stationary motor testers. Since all ABS electronics are very closely connected with the mechanical part, most breakdowns in this area can be determined by an experienced diagnostician by scanning the ECU. For example, the operating valve is jammed in one of the directions. What happens: the coil, figuratively speaking, tries to influence him, but he doesn’t move. The computer, noticing a load violation in the circuit, will immediately give a signal. The “ABS sensor” will light up. When connected, the technician will see the direction that needs to be looked at and quickly fix the problem.
FEATURES OF ABS PRIOR DIAGNOSTICS
Some scanners that read faults recorded in the ECU produce only alphanumeric codes, so for particularly meticulous car enthusiasts it makes sense to have on hand the decoding of these codes for the VAZ Priora: C0035 - malfunction of the left front sensor; C0040 – the same for the front right; C0045 – rear left malfunction; C0050 – the same for the right rear; C0060 – failure of the left front exhaust valve; C0065 – front left intake valve failure; C0070 – malfunction of the front right exhaust valve; C0075 – malfunction of the front right intake valve; C0080 – rear left exhaust; C0085 – rear left inlet; C0090 – rear right exhaust; C0095 – rear right intake valve; C0110 – return pump circuit malfunction; C0121 – failure in the relay circuit for turning on the supply voltage of the valves; C0161 – malfunction in the brake light circuit; C0245 – incorrect reading of rotation speed; C0550 - ECU malfunction; C0800 - voltage mismatch in the ABS network. This list allows you to find a fault, even if a simple scanner for a Priora produces only codes, and find out why the “ABS sensor came on.” Still, it is worth remembering that it will be more pleasant for the technician to hear the correct wording - the anti-lock system malfunction lamp is on.
Anti-lock braking system malfunctions
All Priora ABS malfunctions can be divided into two categories. Malfunctions of the electronic part and malfunctions in the field of fluid mechanics. That's how they should be considered.
Electronic failures
This is a failure of electronics-related components:
- breaks in the electrical wiring harness;
- failure of rotation speed sensors;
- break or short circuit of the control valve activation coil;
- failure of the return pump electric motor;
- valve activation relay failure;
- program failure, or failure of the ABS control unit.
What to do if the ABS system starts to work incorrectly and the indicator blinks?
This situation is one of the most complex system failures. The thing is that the sensors read incorrect information and transmit it to the control device, which for this reason gives incorrect commands to the actuators. Unfortunately, most vehicle owners, when detecting this malfunction, simply turn off the ABS system, since this is an effective measure to prevent serious consequences while driving. For example, spontaneous activation of the system while driving at a speed of more than 90 km/h can lead to serious damage to the suspension, which will provoke an emergency situation as a result of loss of control over the car. In this case, you need to do this:
- perform system diagnostics at a car service center;
- if the ABS system is installed on a domestic car, it must be disabled;
- it is quite possible that after repairing the ABS, the ECU will need to be reflashed, but this measure is applicable mainly for foreign cars;
- disabling the anti-lock system is not a solution to the problem, since on most vehicles its presence is simply necessary and is determined by the design features of their chassis, body and frame;
- You should not completely rule out the presence of faults in other components of the car that cause interruptions in the operation of the ABS.
It is necessary to remember that only diagnostics using special equipment will help to establish the real reason for the incorrect operation of the anti-lock system, which may lie in the malfunction of its components or other components of the vehicle. Therefore, you should be prepared for anything. But in many cases the problem can be solved quite simply. The cost of restoring the ABS system will depend only on its design and the make of the car. But the need to carry out this work is dictated by the safe operation of automotive equipment, the design of which includes such a system.
Problems caused by the ABS system cannot be called difficult to solve, but in any case they require immediate elimination. As you can see, the banal shutdown of the system, which most car owners consider a panacea in the event of a malfunction, is not always this magic remedy. All that needs to be done is to correctly identify the malfunction and eliminate it, because in most cases, it is not related to the functioning of the anti-lock system.
Like any modern car, Priora is equipped with many devices that make driving more comfortable and safe. Such devices include ABS (Anti-lock Braking System). Like all modern devices, it has its own electronic control unit and a warning light on the instrument panel. And then this lamp lit up. What to do if the ABS fault warning light on a Priora goes off? Where to look? Who should I contact?
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Comments 12
That's it, guys, the problem is solved. There was condensation in the oil receiver, and this condensate froze. We drained the oil, removed the filler, warmed up the oil receiver, filled in oil, started the engine, heated the engine to 80 and drained the oil, then poured in new oil. Now everything seems to be fine.
Drain the oil, my sump and change the oil receiver, a friend did this on a viburnum and the machine came to life.
I don’t think it’s anything serious, maybe the oil is frozen. Another option is to check the wire that goes to the sensor with a tester; if the light does not light, it means there is an open circuit, this happens in cold weather
I had this happen with a couple of Kalinovodovs as well. Condensation. It appears if you go on short trips in winter. Then it freezes in the car along with the oil in severe frost. I warmed up the pan and changed the oil. I switched to 5v40 Mobile. Before this, the owner supposedly had zero .Thank God this didn’t happen again!
It is no secret that the engine is the main component of a car, for the normal functioning of which a number of conditions must be met. One of them is maintaining optimal engine oil pressure. Reducing this parameter can lead to a number of problems - increased wear on the engine, a decrease in its power, disruption of the functioning of some components, and so on. But more about everything.
Functions of motor oil
Let's remember what tasks are assigned to motor oil. There are several of them:
- Reducing friction between the main elements of the engine, as well as increasing their service life.
- Formation of the required pressure level in all systems and components equipped with a hydraulic drive.
- Effective heat removal from the piston system, bearings and other rubbing elements of the system.
- Reliable protection of all engine components from corrosion.
- Prevention of various deposits and the appearance of soot on the walls of the motor.
- Protection of the engine from the action of acids that may form during combustion of the air-fuel mixture.
- Elimination of any form of sediment in the main components (oil pipeline or engine crankcase).
Main reasons for lack of oil pressure
Before checking the oil pressure in the system, you must clearly understand the reasons for this phenomenon. There are several of them:
Reduced oil level in the power unit. To avoid this problem, you should check the oil level from time to time under the following basic conditions - the engine should be stopped and cool. If the level drops, it is necessary to top up using oil of the same type, brand and viscosity. After this, check the pressure again. Increased oil filter resistance. Often, novice car enthusiasts make a mistake in choosing this unit and install a filter of the wrong type (intended for a different model). In such a situation, the throughput of the newly installed filter may not correspond to normal engine operating parameters. Oil pump failure. A malfunction of this unit is a very common pressure issue. Its malfunction can be caused by simple contamination and the presence of significant deposits on the internal filter elements. To fix this problem, you may need to replace the pump. As a rule, car enthusiasts do this work with their own hands, without going to a service station. Increasing the gaps between the main elements of the power unit. The main reason is wear and tear. There are times when, even if all the problems listed above are eliminated, the pressure in the system remains at an extremely low level. In such a situation, disassembling the engine and checking the main clearances can help out.
In particular, special attention must be paid to the distances between the bearings and the connecting rod journals. Coolant or fuel getting into the engine oil. A similar problem can occur for a number of reasons - burnout of the cylinder head gasket, wear of the rings, failure of one of the cylinders, and so on.
In the event of such a malfunction, it is no longer possible to do without changing the oil and repairing the engine. The oil pressure sensor is broken. If after diagnostics (we will look at its essence below) it turns out that the oil pressure in the systems is normal, but the sensor still gives a signal to the contrary, then the only way out is to replace the sensor. The wiring has failed. In domestic cars, this reason is one of the most common. The emergency oil pressure light may light up due to damage to the switching conductors.
